Gotrek

Yep it goes on top (someone should edit the how to change your timing belt post in the garage) I reread through my FSM and it clearly states to rotate the tensionner to the right until the keyway reaches 5 - 5:30 in relation to the tensionner bolt. This would land the spring on top. I'm going back in there tonight shouldn't take long.

Agreed if the starter is turning but the crank isn't spinning then your flywheel is not connected to your crank. Also I boubt your starter is making "normal" starter sounds if the flywheel is loose or the starter gear is not meshing with the flywheel.

A/C robs a huge amount of power from an engine it's quite the increased load (both mechanical and electrical) That's pretty much how it is on most vehicles in the same power range.

I think I know what I might of screwed up. does the end of the spring on the tensionner go under or above the stud? I put mine under as this was the only way it had "spring" Is this correct? I've seen pictures online where it is above (but these are pictures of dissasembly)

Oh I used a 1" impact wrench add a hammer to your 4 ft pipe.

well went for short spin. I've heard whinier engines going to lossen the accesory belts tomorrow and check them. It's not noticeable inside with the windows rolled down but outside you can definately hear a bit of a whine and with the hood open a bit more. I only own v8's with timing chains so all new to me Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow. I measured the belt deflectionas per my shop manual too it was around 1/2" with the suggested amount o force applied.

Well I'm done. Belt is in truck runs 100 times better (belt was on backwards probably off a tooth) idles smoother anyways. But...... I followed the directions I swear... The key on the tensionner is pointing the right way. I twisted the belt so it wouldn't go past 90 degrees.... Sigh it's whining... (I like it) But I'm guessing the belt will stretch break and all that bad stuff? Am I alowed a break in period where it might quiet down? How much looser should I make it. It might be normal whine the engine ran rough before and maybe I couldn't hear it. Could be the accessory belts too I'm going to find my stehoscope tomorrow to find out. Hey but at least no leaks and that bypass hose is done for a while. Is it possible to remove just the lower timing cover (after taking the belts and dampener off?)

Check But is noise the only side effect? I could go for some noisy gear drive/super charger whine

I pulled my pitman arm off without a problem. But I did spray it with penetrating oil every day for 2 weeks before attemping to pull it off. nice to see another Canuck. Manitoba for me,

Woot, Belt is in counted 40 teeth from cam to cam mark and 43 from driver side cam to crank mark. Well I spun it around 2-3 times to check the tension and it seems good. Finally! re-assembly tomorrow. It's brain juice time.

Clutch type fans are still the mopst efficient and elast power robbing... When they work.

Ok that's about where my crank and tensionner key line up (5:30 and 11:30) I made my own marks as well there was a mark on the gear on the crank but no where on the oil pump. Thanks all.

Jsut curious but one of my cams doesn't seem to line up with the timing mark. I put the engine at TDC for plug 1 (compression stroke) If I make both cams sort of lineup with the marks my rotor is pointing between plug 1 and 2. If I back it up a tad so it points at plug 1 te passenger side cam doesn't quite line up with the dot on the rear cover. The PO put the timing belt on backwards if that has anything to do with it the arrows pointing front are pointing to the back. It's possible the truck rn like crap and they advanced/retarded the timing to compensate? how would I get everything back where it needs to be?

Pried it off now. Not sure how but it was stuck on good.

Interesting my bolts went in the opposite way they were bolts on the pulley and not permanent studs So I took 4 bolts from behind the Clutch but in front of the pulley off and that's where I'm at. No studs on mine

Yep I reefed on it hard and also gently whacked it with a rubber mallet no go. I started prying but then figured I should ask for advice and moved on to other things I'll pry it tomorrow now that I know it's not on a shaft or something.

I'm almost done dissasembling the front of my engine to replace the collant bypass hose, water pump, t-stat, timing belt, tensionner, cam seals, crank seals and all that other good stuff.... But I can seem to remove the Fan clutch from the water pump. I've unbolted it (4 bolts) can't get it off. Felt free to whack it a bit still won't come loose. Is it on a shaft or?? Am I missing something? I ended up unbolting the fan from the clutch instead so I could continue. Am I ok to pry it off?

It was the bypass hose... More presisly it's lower clamp which was completely disintegrated. I've got it all apart ready for the crank pulley to come off. Might as well do the timing belt and water pump. I believe the belt is on backwards since the arrows sthat should point to the front are pointing to the front of the engine (to the back) unless that is correct (doubtful) I'm replacing thew timing belt, wter pump, thermostat and probably the crank seal.

I think its the short 3" hose that goes into the T-stat housing... or the housing itself but no way to see properly. I'm starting dissassembly tomorrow so we'll see. I'll be half way to a timing belt change so I might go ahead and do that while I'm there.

Are there any common areas for coolant leaks? Our pathy emptied itself while we were gone on the weekend. I can see it leaking on the skidplate after it was refilled. It's leaking from the front of the engine near the thermostat housing according to my two fingers that fit in that tiny area Just in case is there anything else near there that leaks frequently and I should replace? Water pump was changed 30 000km's ago I would guess.

Thanks guys I'll research those options. We can rule out sway bar links. I did have that problem (the springy boing noise) but I replaced the links last month or so,. That's when the other noise became more obvious Noise is definately on the passenger side though but echo can do wierd things.

WD40 is not a penetrating oil. Go get some liquid wrench or pb blaster.

That was my first guess but I looked and shoved my hand as far as it could go nothing there. As for the muffler there is a broken hanger on the driver side but I've secured the muffler with strapping it doesn't move now. The noise is coming from the passenger side.

Our pathy is making a noise in the rear. It's a clunking sound, hollow sounding, and while sitting back there to the best of my knowledge is coming from the upper quarter panel. It almost osunds like it's coming from up higher then the speaker pod. I realise it could just be the echo resonating and making it sound like it's coming from up there. The noise happens when driving on perfectly flat roads, bumps, braking and accelerating. It's random some days we don't hear it at all other days it is constant. Imagine putting an axe handle in your quarter panel an it's hitting side to side. That's the best I can describe the noise. My first guess was a loose, rusted out shock tower. although I didn't check the shock yet I'm unable to move it at all it's not loose. My next guess was the spare tire carrier. in the open position I can reproduce a similar noise but much quieter. And in closed position No noise at all. all the brackets are tight. I've checked for loose objects in the back I've lifted the truck and articulated the suspension no change. We did have another noise (wobbling noise) which was caused by the bad sway bar endlinks but I've replaced those and that has gone away. Everything else on the suspension seems ok. The top of the frame rails are rusted a bit but the body mounts on the passenger side are all still good. any other ideas?

Was it a recall? i think it's just a TSB (technical service bulletin)