GoPathyGo

For taillights, also check eBay and AnzoUsa.com

Ah ok, very helpful. Hmm. If it's just a gasket, can't one be made at home ? Also, is there really a verifiable (dyno-able) way to measure the increased hp ? I'm just wondering how much of a diff a couple of inches would make...

Um, what's a plenum spacer and why is it so cool ?

Our trucks are about as aerodynamic as a brick. Smoothing 5% of the surface area on the a**-end of a brick won't make it cut through the air any faster in any quantity that is relevant to the real world. Same with the truck. I expect AlexRex will come up with some "I must contradict everyone to prove what a genius I am" comment like,"Well, at the milli-nano-ultra-micro level, the blah blah blah." Whatever. No one cares. If it seems to give you more MPG, awesome. If not, still awesome. So long as it serves whatever you intended it for it, rock on.

So what's the latest on this, Fueler ?

Didn't you sell your Pathy ? Fleury makes the aluminum front plate. The much-disliked Automotive Customizers (www.4x4parts.com) make thick steel ones from front to tranny. (Their rear diff skid is worthless, IMHO.) They take a while to make and ship 'em. BlackPanther makes steel ones too. I think some of the Canadian members here have them. Pure custom, build-to-order stuff. Take your pick.

FYI, I searched a lot for wheels with low backspacing. I don't like rubbing at all and I didn't want to use spacers. The only wheels I could find that came with 3.5" or less of backspacing were Mickey Thompson Aluminum wheels that cost $130 each, if I remember correctly. I didn't want aluminum because I wheel regularly and the aluminum wheels would get hammered. Eventually, I found you can order steel wheels with custom backspacing from US Wheel or Cragar via Summit Racing. The lowest US Wheel would go is 3.125" backspacing. I took 3.125" and compensated a bit by getting a smaller width. Went with 16x7 instead of 16x8. That saved me $20 ($70 for the 16x7 vs $90 for the 16x8) and some weight. I think they said they could go lower than 3.125" but then you'd be looking at a reverse wheel. Reverse wheels can sometimes cause problems with the rest of your setup (brakes etc). I am trying different shades of Rust-Oleum right now to see if I can get a nice shiny look. On my truck, the 3.125" backspacing on a 16x7 wheel means my wheels only stick out about 1" to 1.5" rom the fender flares. May be less. I like the look but as others have pointed out, that's a personal preference.

Dollies ? You mean the kind that still requires 2 wheels to be on the ground ?? Eff that. I don't have my manual handy but I think flatbed is recommended for all true 4x4s, which yours certainly is.

Oh dude that sux... It doesn't sound like coincidence to me... Did they tell you whether they flatbedded it ? That's the giveaway... Hope it's not that and that it isn't serious. Wish I could be more help. Good luck, dude.

Sorry if this is a dumb question but what's the heat dissipation like ?

I might be interested but how many rocks have bashed this thing ?

Strut prices go as low at $45 each on Amazon, so I guess it's possible in theory. I bought mine from Amazon. Don't remember what I paid but it was definitely cheaper than elsewhere. I tend to buy critical items from retailers for the whole peace of mind thing. Only exception was an alty.

Hmm... If you'd said a gain over the AC/Steel skids, I woulda said . But the plastic splash guard weighs next to nothing. Wasn't the fleury plate like 14 lbs or so ? I've never heard of adding weight reducing mpg... Odd...

I was wondering who'd get that reference. No, Lucy, after the football incidents, I am NOT going to try the great pumpkin.

I read 2-3 reviews. None of them really swayed me. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=413 http://www.pnwx.net/article/arb-x-jack-review Anyway, even if it's the greatest invention since sliced bread, I'm not rolling under a truck held up by a giant pumpkin.

Check the shipping weight on a 10-ton support jack, similar to the 20 ton I posted, and compare it to the Hi-Lift's 30 lbs. That doesn't count the various Hi-Lift accessories, whose bag is not lightweight. But then perhaps I'm just a wimp with twigs for arms.

Isn't it cojones ? I thought a kahuna was a fish. Unfortunately, I have nothing worthwhile to add to make up for that shameless

I don't have the b*lls to get under a 2.5 ton truck held up by an orange beach ball... NFW... That name is funny, though - it sounds like a porno title. Not that I have much experience with those or anything. Just so I've heard. *cough* I'll stick with one of these old-school cheap things... http://www.amazon.com/Torin-Support-Jack-1...974&sr=8-26

Actually, a 10-ton support jack (jack and stand integrated into one) weighs less than a Hi-Lift alone, excluding the Hi-Lift accessories. Cheaper than a Hi-Lift too. Alternatively, aluminum jack stands can be fairly lightweight.

Try the seats. Stock seats - even fabric ones - weight a lot. Mine were over 100 lbs. Replacing em with lightweight off-road seats. Now that's expensive, but my local JY didn't have any wrecked ricer cars and I was impatient. Weight counts. The greater the weight, the faster/greater the wear on brakes, drivetrain and so on. Also, getting stuck in the mud is no fun unless you're a pig. Which is interesting given we're discussing weight. Oh, I don't have a rear seat anymore and I don't carry a spare around town. Throw the spare in the back when going wheeling.

This would have been good to know BEFORE I tried using it this afternoon, thank you very much! So now I have matching dents. The local JY is gonna love me. Jokes aside, my sliders are tucked in pretty close so I think they're gonna be useless. Perhaps I'll just get a light scissors jack to get it off the ground and carry a pair of jack stands with me.

Cool, good to know. I also saw the wheel strap thing on the Hi-Lift site. . Perhaps that will help for the front, where I don't really have a convenient jack point. Will put the sliders to the test tomorrow.

Ok, so I see the advantages of the hi-lift and its strength. But I can't figure out how/where to actually deploy it. It won't fit under the factory jack points. It also won't reach the frame rails from the front or side. The front "bumper" is just a plastic cover over a crumple zone. The rear bumper on mine is custom and very high off the ground but should be fine. For folks without custom bumpers, the rear "bumper" is also just a plastic cover over a crumple zone. I have rock sliders so conceivably could lift off those but not sure if that's recommended. SOOO, how do you use your Hi-Lift ? What jack points do you use ? Any pics ?

I'm actually toying with the idea of going with either 10W-40 or BMW motor oil (which has a wider temperature band than standard 5W-30) at the next change. Weather isn't cold enough here to worry about the low temps and I like the idea/theory that the heavier oil with the higher breakdown temp would help the engine. Castrol makes the BMW motor oil and the Edge stuff is supposed to be quite good. But ultimately who knows how much of a difference all of this makes.