GoPathyGo

Oh no no no!! There is most definitely an obligation - an obligation to post lots of new wheelin' pics with MrJim!!! Good luck, Jim.

Try an air hammer to move stuff out. You don't have to hit the bolt itself. Anything solid nearby has worked for me. The vibration will often work it loose. I used a $20 from Lowes with good results. Only works for stuff that's accessible and next to solid tough components, of course.

Wow, looks like they got mugged en route!!! Good thing we have pics of the muggers!! I'm bookmarking this. It really shows the best of what human beings are all about. I see and hear so much petty, despicable behavior that it is easy to become cynical. This gives me hope.

Hmm.. Unless you're planning a very literal interpretation of "driving the wheels off" your truck, I'd get that looked at and fixed.

It was a cheap add-on to the alarm I was putting in. If only I'd got a chipped key. I could remote start the truck while wheeling in the Amazon.

Chipped keys shouldn't be $200. Try Ace Hardware, aftermarket stores or local car audio/alarm install shops. Not sure how the chipped key helps while wheeling, though. Maybe if you wheel it really hard, the key rattles out the ignition and flies out the window, down the hill and into a lake. Or you accidentally fling it into the fire while toasting marshmallows at the campfire. Then again, I've used my remote start 3 times - 2 of them to test the install while at the alarm company.

When I don't have the exact size and it isn't listed in the usual sources (FSM, here, google), I usually take the part or a similar sized on to HD to figure out the exact size and thread pitch. Then I go here and get Class 10.9 (Metric) or Grade 8 bolts. www.nutsandbolts.com www.boltdepot.com

No offense taken. Good info. It was news to me that Monroe and OME come out the same factory. Yup, the part # may have changed, but I was under the distinct impression that they were totally separate shocks etc. So I was quite surprised to find they were made by the same company AND at the same facility. Makes me wonder whether the thicker rod diameter and slight advantage in travel are enough to justify the steep price tag - 1 OME strut = 1 pair of KYBs and a few bucks left over for some more itunes downloads! There's a reason I have a Pathfinder and not a QX4. I'm cheap!!!! And the dash clock was $30 from a junkyard.

Oh man, you may just have saved me a ton of money. I already ordered the rears but those aren't super-expensive and I can return em if they look like they s*ck. Check out this link. http://www.exploroz.com/Forum/Topic/16977/...ed_Monroes.aspx It will be interesting to take a look at these OME/Monroe rears when they arrive at my house.

Just how many ex-wives is that mechanic paying for ??? $2,400... Outrageous. Heck, you could get a whole new Pathy for $2,400!!! $3k is the price for a NEW transmission from factorynissanparts.com I'd suggest reman or car-part.com (salvage). Agree with the others on DIY. Anything can be done on these trucks. Ask the guy who didn't know an oil filter from a hole in the ground and is now tearing down his engine! Hang in there and good luck, man. Also, maybe Fueler or one of our SoCal members can help you out.

Parts prices seem pretty good aka in-line with what I've seen elsewhere. Labor is a bit higher than what I paid here in DC but I shopped around a LOT and the guys who did my truck sold me a winch and mount as well, so they cut me a break on labor. I assume you don't want to DIY. The OME strut price is in line with street price - *if* they have it in stock. I've been looking around for a pair. ARB USA has 4 passenger side, no driver side. There are none on the container currently on the way from Australia. I was told the minimum wait time was 8 weeks. But if your guys have them in stock, jump on 'em. If they have 2, please PM me so I can grab one.

Actually I think I confused the issue. Xenon = HID most of the time. Xenon is the gas through which the electric current is discharged so some manufacturers call 'em "xenon lights" while others call 'em "HID". The terms are used interchangeably,

FYI, Tex confirmed those are merely projector lenses - NOT HID. Guess you could pop an HID bulb in there and string a ballast further back but sounds like a lot of trouble compared to finding a junked QX4.

Check your PMs. I'm gonna go look at a QX4 assembly just to see how plug-and-play it would be.

I'd bet you can retrofit a rear hatch mechanism. I'm doing a retrofit of the hydraulic trunk opener to my BMW. If it works out fine, I may try something similar for the Pathy. (The BMW trunklid is NOT light.) I always thought we got hosed on the power hatch thing. Actually, I'm STILL annoyed the glass window can only be opened by the key! So THAT'S what the holes in the crossmember are for. I mounted my PIAA relay to one. If it is that adjustable, I doubt it's plug and play in the sense I was thinking. You'd have to run the wire through the firewall, install the switch etc etc. Too much hassle when I'd be perfectly happy with regular, basic, non-adjustable HIDs. Hmm... Found a junkyard with a QX4. Wonder if they'll deal...

Are the QX4/Overseas ones plug-and-play, with everything contained in the assembly itself ? Just curious. My fuse box actually has separate slots for HID L and R.

http://www.cockramnissan.co.nz/shoppingCar....htm#headlights About US$1,300/pair. See bottom of page. If this sounds outrageous, consider that replacement QX4 HIDs run $800-$900 each new.

Technically, by stealing aren't you "getting" 'em for free ?? I'm lost. Actually, maybe I don't want to know!

You can get rid of the rubbing without removing all the plastic. I ended up cutting mine almost in half because I'm an*l about squeaks and rattles. Of course, now I don't have any at all - but then I don't have a factory air intake anymore either!

Lot of the guys in that thread run full synthetic. Agree with B. 10,000 miles/oil change is really pushing it unless you're driving a late-gen BMW with BMW motor oil - and even then it'll yell at you around 8,000 miles.

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Snorkel, did you say ? I'll sell you my AC/Gibson snorkel for $250. PM me if interested. It'll ship with most if not all the parts. (May be a few screws missing. I have half a car worth of parts in the garage now.)

Appreciate your interest and enthusiasm. As far Nissandom47 is concerned, you may want to read this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22491 SAS = Solid Axle Swap. Replace the Independent Suspension with a solid axle setup up front. Very expensive and time-consuming but probably the single "most awesomest mod ever".

At the risk of sounding heretical, I think you can get 33s, 34s and 35s in WITHOUT an SFD. It all depends on how much articulation you want up front and how much aesthetics matter to you. I have 32s (really 31.6" in the popular 265/75-16 size) and, using those as a base, measured the additional space required for 35s. Interco makes a number of 35s that are 10.5/265 mm wide. However, I wanted plenty of room for front flex and was concerned the 35s would fill up too much of the wheel well. So I went with their 33" TrXus radials with 255 mm width instead. (These are actually a bit taller than the advertised size. Interco tends to underestime sizes a bit.) To get 33s and up in without tire rub, you need to trim the plastic front bumper, remove all the plastic splash guards inside the wheel well and get wheels with low (<3.75") backspacing. This is where most people stop. Very few wheels are available with backspacing in the 3-3.75" range and not everyone likes the available designs. Also, a lot of people DON'T like cutting plastic. This is purely a personal preference issue. I'll post up pics of the 33s either late this weekend or early next week.