BigMike

you didnt happen by chance to have cracked a plug did you? i accidentally cracked one of mine and it had a rought idle at about 550 rpm in drive.

some guy near my school bagged and chopped an old astro van. yellow-orange exterior with little 14" rims white wall tires and a white ragtop and white leather interior. body kit an every thing decked out. just ugly to me...

have you gotten it on the dyno yet? about howmuch more power are you getting out of it? and yes i would pay 400-500, pretty reasonable for a SC kit. oh like pickles said, will it work with the EFI 3.0s?

oh there isnt much room for amps in these trucks, my amps are on the box, but you should make sure you have enough bracing on the box or its gonna flex and shake the crap outta your amps, or loosen the screws ect ect.

eh i rarely open the rear, so it wouldnt make a difference. but it would be heavy, and i doubt the stock lift pistons would be able to make much difference in lifting. the amp i wanna use is 17 lbs alone plus 2 10s at atleast 20 lbs apeace plus the box. i plan to get 2 1/2 tint all around and 20 in the front windows so ill be covered there. ill have to see what happens though, i really like the idea cause the bass fires forward instead of tward the rear window like i have. i was thinkin about putting speakers in the rear passenger doors, has any one done this? ive see tweeters but i wanted to put in say 6x9s or 5x7 near the bottom and tweeters up high, and new speakers in the back, new in the front doors and maybe replace the kick panels with speaker pods. all in all 8 speakers and 8 tweeters, large dreams i suppose. would be cool, it would be an orgy of sound in my truck.

i was thinking about removing the whole plastic panels on the rear hatch and make a fiberglass subbox with an amp mount. id make the box a little more deep that the original plastic, and route the cables through the roof line and ground it on the door it self and ground the door to the roof for a better ground. that way if they look in through the back they dont see much. i think it would look cool but be kinda hard to do... just an idea though...

yes most ppl say dont even mess with it in a older truck. from what i under stand the oil can slip through old seals makin leaks that wernt there before.

will it turn over?

funny thing is i see pathfinders all over the town and HBs as a basic work horse. almost every yard ive been to i dont see many HBs either, they are more of them tho. there is a void of HBs and finders here.

lol ive seen somethin similar. some guy used a 17" laptop screen and a swivel mount arm. pretty nice set up, he used a ATX form factor board and a super thin keyboard and optical mouse mounted in the glove box. nifity little toyota. hey 88 what kinda isolator you got?

well i never had a problem with FRAM and never really heard of any complaints what brand do you use?

i was gettin ready to ask the same, cant find chit around here, you'd think that for a city with 4 million there would be at least one wrecked Pathfinder. i walk in and ask they guy says no with out havin to look in the computer, must be darn near psycic.

what are you using the computer for? ive heard of ppl puting computers in their car and going around mapping internect acess points (Startbucks ect) and seting up a computer to play all formats of music in their car using a wireless network card to move music from computer to computer. im just curoius and thought id ask why. :confused:

yea, gives me a warm felling inside. this is the first time ive ever changed a starter or anything besides the oil on my rig. that stupid grey plug pissed me off. i couldnt even get it off. i tried workin it off and nothin. then my buddy came and unpluged it for me with his little hands. curse my big hands!!

well after my starter died i decided to remove it and have it rebuilt. cost me $45USD to have it rebuilt instead of paying $100 plus a $50 core for a new one, and instead of having a shop do and takin my money i desided to do it my self. one thing to remember is that i have a body lift that made the removal easier. all you need to remove the starter are some basic tools: 1. Rachet, meteric sockets, flex-joints, and extentions 2. Jack 3. Jack Stand 4. Flathead Screwdriver 5. Tire removal kit 6. you might want some sort of glasses to keep dirt and muck out of your eyes. they arnt nessasary but they do help. removing the oil filter makes it a lot easier to remove the starter, so you might as well change the oil while your at it. your gonna start disconnecting the battery. removing the front skid plate and wheel. the starter is located right behind the control arm and frame. the bolt for the skid are 12mm, the plate isnt very big nore is it heavy. after you remove the skid you can drail the oil from the engine and removing the oil filter. REMEMBER TO PUT THE OIL PAN PLUG BACK IN OR YOU'LL HAVE A OILY MESS. here is a pic of the starter and a reason why you'll want to change the oil. as you can see its kind of a tight fit. there are two bolts, both 14mm, right behind where there starter is located. they are pretty easy to see but can be PITA to remove. this is where those flex-joints and extentions come in handy. i dont have a pic of it but heres a pic of bolt holes with the starter out to give you an idea of where it will be. i used one joint and two extentions to remove them both. after you remove the bolts its easier to remove the plugs on the starter. there are three plugs i removed, two of which are on the starter it self. the other has a orange boot to protect it, that is the oil pressure sensor plug. the solinoid trigger plug was the one i had the most trouble with. i use a screw driver to remove three screws that hold the metal shrowd that covers the plug. then i moved the shrowd aside and pulled out the plug. to remove the starter you gotta coax it up and over the center link. after you take it out its time to take it to get rebuilt or put a new one in. i had mine rebuilt. heres a pic of it. there you can see a good shot of the trigger plug and positive plug. i didnt take a before and after pics to compare, but trust me. it was a real mess covered in dirt and coated in old oil. the instillation is the reverse. make sure you fill er up with oil 3.5-4 quarts. you can do all this in about a day if you have every thing, or 2-3 if you have to take it in to get rebuilt like i did. after you done you can start her up no prob. am i missing anything?

the jacka$$ that put it in lost one of the lifts blocks. so for now ive been using these rubber spacers. now that i look at it, i forgot that i left a magnent there

there are two bolts that hold on the bumper on each side. heres a pic of mine !!remeber this pic is with a body lift!! but its the same idea just mine has lifter bars. the yellow is circling where the bolt will be. i believe that the top is where the top bolt will be, i hope this helps.

SHE LIVES !!! i just got done puttin in the starter, and she starts! i took lots of pic so that i can try to do a write up. i havent put my skidplate on yet cause imma paint it but other than that, she ready for another days work. wasnt as hard as it could have been, i paid to have it rebuit for 45 bucks in stead of 100 for a new one. when i took it out it was nasty. when i got it back it looked almost brand new. now she purrs like a kitten again, well a loud boxy 2 and a half ton kitten

agh well.. s$%t happens i suppose. the starter is dead. so ive taken it out, man was it a PITA. the starter had oil and dirt all around it. the plugs were covered in oil and the last one on top was the hardest to get to, didnt help that my hands are big. after the last plug was pulled it was easy as pie then. i should be getting a new one soon. im also sanding down and painting the front skid plate a high gloss black.

it will click for a little bit then stop entirerly. how do i jump the starter? i see a small wire in the back of what i think is the solinoid? i cant really see much else. thanks for the link 88 i hadnt seen that ill try that tomarrow.

alright she wont start. shes out like a light. i think my starter is done with, it clicks and clicks then stops ah clickin. every thing runs fine lights radio and such. i went under and tapped it to death and nothin. after i tap it it will click three or four times then stop and nothin. is there any way to fix these things or will i have to slap down a couple to get a new one?

you use them alot? prolly just needs some cleanin and grease for the window regulator

if its stolen that guys prolly bumbed like crazy. a friend of mine had her expedition stolen, the found it about 150 miles away stripped to the frame and what was left of the body in a ditch. i wouldnt touch that thing, ain't mine why touch it right? just report it like every one else suggested.

thats pretty sweet. you ever got that baby up to 105?

your brake fluid might be low. mine came on when it was.