geordie4x4

Aftre a long trip across Australia and through Tasmania, I broke the sway bar mount on my Terrano as well. Australia generally has good roads untill you get out in the bush. It was not the same top bracket but the two bolts into the chasis crossmember that stripped the threads and pulled out. Made a bit of a clunking sound but improved the front wheel articulation in the rough stuff. Geordie

Steve, the Lovells springs are $180 pair from WA Suspensions ph 9244 2211 From ARB about $230 Shocks: if you intend to use it for heavy off road work where maximum articulation and a softer shock compression rate is required then the ARB or Rancho are the go from ARB were about $145 each Rancho about the same. ARB I found gives a softer ride which was good at keeping the wheels on the road on corrugations and gives good articulation. Koni adjustable shocks are apparently excellent and about $230 a pair (WA Suspensions). For heavy towing but not for maximum articulation, a firmer shock is better. Tough Dog foam cell, Pedders Red ryder (give quite a firm ride when not loaded). Cheaper option for general road use, towing and off road the Monro gas shocks are about 200 a pair. Justin, WHAT WAS THAT? I just saw your last post appear as I was typing this Sell the black beast :sniff: WHAT ABOUT THE V8 and the New steering that I almost have sorted out. My alternator is shot again and I have just been driving a brand new Landcruiser 100 TD GXL at work I think I am developing expensive tastes, time for a new job. Have to go for a last drive with you before you say by to it. Geordie

Wow great work. I hope that those big flat washers either side of the rubber bushes are only for spacers while you get it all lined up. The joints need to flex sideways quite a bit. Now what are you going to do to the front end to match. Anyway bloody good job mate.

Thanks for the compliments grego and exodus. I will get some photos posted when I am next on line. Regarding the boost question: I have turned up the boost via the waste-gate activation link between the lever and the pressure servo (or diaphragm) on top of the turbo. With a boost gauge I could only get about 12 to 14 psi before opening the factory fitted blow-off valve on top of the inlet manifold. Once this blow-off opens it dumps a lot of pressure, dropping boost to about 5 to 8 psi before closing and allowing boost to build up again. So if you want higher boost you also need to change this valve. I figured that this blow off valve was set at about a safe maximum boost and did not want to kill my motor so I left it alone. I dialled back the waste-gate link by one turn of the thread and left it at that. With the intercooler a little more boost and 2.5" exhaust the whole package runs much better (could always do with a few hundred more horsepower but have to settle for a sensible, affordable compromise). I have done over 120,000km since the job with no motor problems (195,000km on the clock now). I replaced the fuel injectors and had the pump re-set on the dyno and it made a world of difference (and no more black smoke). The fuel pump has a pressure operated servo to increase the fuel as the boost increases. This is a small black hose from the cross pipe, it runs down through the inlet manifold near the injector lines to the back of the fuel pump. It must be re-connected when you fit an intercooler or there will not be an increase in fuel with increased boost. Lag in my wagon is more noticeable from the auto gearbox than from the turbo. I peddle the accelerator a bit to keep the revs up slightly just before I boot it and there is virtually no lag. Lag is also much more noticeable in my driving style with the wife in the passenger seat but I can't turn up her boost any more without possible reliability problems. Geordie

I think the Terano fuel lines get some pre warming anyway. They run from the right side across the firewall just behind the motor to the filter on the left and back to the pump. The high perssure injector lines run from the pump up through the inlet manifold to the injectors. Put your hand on the injector lines after the motor has been running for a while and see how hot they are. Probably the same temp as the radiator unless you are in a freezing climate.

Steve I have used Lovells HD rear Pathfinder springs from WA Suspensions and Old Man Emu shocks front and rear from ARB (both in Osbourne Park WA). The combination works very well off road and gives a much better load carrying capacity than the ARB springs or Aurora springs and better articulation than the Tough Dog, TJM Series 2000 or Rancho shocks. The Lift is only about 1.5” to 2” but suits my Terrano very well. The only mod that I might do in the future is to add some air bags to the rear coils to be able to adjust and increase the rear ride height when I tow my camper trailer. Geordie

The biggest problem that I had was pressing out the original rubber bushes from the chassis on the inner end or the lower control arms. Infront of the torsion bar pivot point. You need a press or a propper tool. I used bloody big bolt flat washers and a strong tube and it was no easy job. If these bushes are OK then leave them alone unless you can get the propper press tool. Same goes for the ones in the Upper Control arm except you can take the whole arm out to do it. (or fit replacement UCA) Have fun

I found the bloody squeek was coming from the metal clips on the panel that covers the front pillar (A pillar). I fixed it but as someone else pointed out when the weather is hot the dash squeeks somewhere right next to it. Like a bloody little cricket living the dash. Grrrrrrrrrr

Do diesel exhausts generaly run hotter or cooler than petrol V6 exhausts under load. I borrowed a pyrometer to tesy my Terrano before and after some mods. Intercooler and 2.5" exhaust. Before: while driving under full throttle up very big hill. Air manifold just after the turbo 145C Inlet manifold 140C Exhaust manifold at turbo 225C Exhaust after turbo 175C After fitting Intercooler and 2.5" exhaust (same hill and about same air temp) Air manifold just after the turbo 140C Inlet manifold after intercooler 75C Exhaust manifold at turbo 175C Exhaust after turbo 115C Sorry I dont know what the F these temperatures relate to in F.

OOOUUUCCHH Australian prices suck. Super Lift UCAs cost over $500 here, so think yourselves very lucky. I have a few comments from installing my Superlift UCAs that might be worth noting for smooth operation and good wheel alignment. 1. I found sharp edges on the inner and outer ends of the large diameter tubes where the bushes fit on the upper link pin (or whatever it is called). These sharp edges were likely to cut through the flat end of the bush. I think the finish here was a bit poor for an expensive item. I used a sand paper type grinding wheel (or flap disk) in the electric drill to smooth out the edges. This has prolonged the bush life. Done over 100, 000km since. 2. The length of the "Crush Tubes" was not the same as the standard items that I had removed. This was only about 2mm on each but allowed the UCA to slide or float about 4 to 5 mm forward and back on the bushes. the result is that the wheel alignment caster could change as you brake, corner etc. I had to grind down the end of each tube by 2mm and measure that each was exactly the same. 3. The angle of the "Bump Stop" is not very good. It hits the rubber stop on the upper side and eventually tore off the rubber. Like Path88, I have now cut off the welded bit of square metal from the UCA tube and fitted polyurethane bump stops that directly contact the tube rather than the square bit. This gives far better wheel drop, but stresses the CV joints to the max. 4. the angle of the top ball joint mount is kicked up at a far greater angle than the standard Nissan UCA. This is to suit a lift of about 3". The angle is a bit extreme if you only intend a lift of 1 or 2". Have a look at the Calmini UCA, they look very well made. The Superlift UCAs do work very well with these careful modifications but I was a bit surprised that the finish and attention to detail did not match the price. Good luck Geordie West Australia

The only way to tell is stick one on the front and see. Turn it round and from full lock to lock with the car facing down a slope to put a bit of load on it. I have Navara offset 15/7" ROH Monsoon mags with 31"/10.5 R 15 rims on my Terrano. They fit fine but the 15" Navara offset may be for the older Navara. Those newer ones may well have a slightly different clearance with the caliper. Good luck.

BigMike, I am having the exact same problem with replacement aftermarket ball joint boots and tie-rod end boots becomming perished and cracking then letting in dirt and water after only 1-2 years. They are basically @!*% quality rubber. In Australia there are only a few brands that do parts for a Pathfinder, most come from the same few factories in Chnia. Genuine Nissan upper joint is about $245 Au each so replacing cheap @!*% $45 joints every 2 years is still cheaper. I believe that there are a few better brands such as NAPA and some replacement ball joint cover boots made of urethane not rubber from Energy Suspensions that might solve your problems, but I can't get either in Australia. Good luck Geordie

Yep you are right, I called Stirling and they do clear lights for the Navara (or hardbody) but nothing for the Pathfinder.

Because the Nolathane idler arme bushes only lasted a couple of weeks before squeezing out the bottom of the idler arm and distorting the rubber seal, I have put the half worn Nissan bushes back in untill I can find something better. How bad are they, because it is usually the inner tierod end and the centrelink ball joints that are stuffed before the idler arm bushes. This makes the whole thing loose and hence the wheel allignment guys cant set the toe-in. I am currently having the same problems with the centrelink and tierod joints. I used QH brand and then mor recently Camelot brand tierod ends and they are both @!*%. The rubber covers on both brands were perrished after only about 18 months letting in a bit of sand and mud is fatal for the ball joints. Particularly the inner tierod as the ball faces up, the perished rubber traps water and mud in the joint. I am looking for better quality tierod ends and will let you know what I find. In the meantime I have wobbly vague steering. I had the front wheels re-ballanced and it reduced the wobbles but I have to fix the real problem soon.

MiSh check this link for part numbers http://www.redranger.com.au/proc_selection.php Oh but don't use the nolathane idler arme bush, they are too soft and only last one off road trip.

I had my auto gearbox and transfer case serviced by a Nissan dealer in Aus and they told me it should have genuine Nissmatic D fluid in both. (1992 Terrano) However for some strange reason they put Dextron II in the Auto box and when they were rebuilding it on warranty about a year later told me that this should never have occurred. Must have been 'the gremlins'. I have since discussed this with several reputable auto gearbox specialists and been recommended to use genuine Nissmatic D or DX-III in the auto box and light gearbox oil in the trans case 80W-90 API GL-4.

Yes sorry I was out in a boat for most of the week, I will give them a call on Monday and let you know. Geordie

Vsicks, That looks like a fun job but I suppose it is easier than lying on your back under the dash like I did. The relays for the headlights 'I think' are up the front right inside the guard behind battery. I had problems and could not easily find the relays so I totally re wired the High, low, spotlights, rear work light, thermo fan and extra fan on the intercooler. All are connected to a new bank of relays on the right inner guard. Geordie

MiSh, all the front bushes are the same for a 'non-import' Pathfinder 1987 to 1995 and for Navara. I often don't tell the parts guys that it is an Import just to avoid the hassles. I have mostly used Polyurathane bushes by Nolothane, which I think is what Pedders sell as their own brand. I can probably find most of the part numbers for you if you have any major dramas. I also have a friendly local parts place (Odin Auto Parts) just around the corner who will get me just about anything (standard parts that is). Geordie

MiSh Re: Oil leaks from near front diff I have a spare front diff out of my car at the moment that I am trying to fit a locker into and it is a very solid piece of gear. It is not very likely to leak from damage. The gasket around the front cover is metal and held by about 10 bolts it is not likely to leak. Start by taking off the bash plate, lift the bonnet for some light, get a torch and maybe even a small mirror. 1. There is a rubber breather hose at the front of the diff that could possibly split or pull off the metal tube running along the front cross member and up to the engine bay. 2. the diff could leak from the axle seal on the side of the diff, shorter shaft close to diff centre (passengers side in Australian version). 3. if you have an auto gearbox, check the oil cooler hoses running to the bottom of the radiator (but that oil would be thin red oil) 4. As yours is a turbo diesel, you could have a leak from above the diff look at the following areas: a) there is a vacuum pump on the back of the alternator with an oil pressure supply hose and larger diameter return hose below, running down to the sump, Mine was leaking from there the oil filter and turbo are both located above the diff so there could be a leak from a turbo oil hose c) after an oil change it is not uncommon for new clean oil to have been spilled on the top of the diff when re-installing the filter (which should have been pre-filled with clean oil) the filter has to be laid on the side to get it past the heat shield below the turbo and into the space below the oil pump (@!*% of a job on mine). Spilled oil often collects on the ribs at the side of the front diff directly below the oil filter and drips of the back left side of the diff near the exhaust. Have a look with a torch down the turbo-side of the motor before worrying about the diff. You can also remove the left side wheel and lift the rubber inside the fender for a better view (but don’t break the little plastic clips that hold the rubber). Have fun, there is not much room down there. I hope it is nothing too serious, I have had several minor leaks that required nothing other than tightening a hose clamp. If it is a diff, I might have a spare one for sale cheap soon. Oh and the tick, tick could just be the hot motor or turbo cooling down (that is if you hear it when the motor is off and you are underneath looking for a leak). Geordie

There is a company in Australia that has various clear euro-style or is that asia-style lights and body parts. Sterling Parts 99 Carnarvon St, Silverwater NSW 2128 ph (02) 9748 4846 fax (02) 9748 1001 I could not find a website. G

Yes I have the same problem, mine is perished and falling to bits. However it looks like it is pretty well joined onto the glass, I don’t know if it would be sold as a separate part. Have a look at this link it might help with part numbers http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...topic.php?t=416 G

Yes OK so I'm a slack whimp of an offroader. Unfortunately most of the Pathfinders and imported Terrano in Aus have the auto lockes and because these are not a bloody Toyota, it is actually quite an effort to get manual hubs over here. I have been trying to find something for less than $250 Aus for quite a while. My work vehicle a 2003 Navara, has the manual hubs and your right, it is not that much effort. I use it nearly every day to tow a heavy boat over the beach or up a steep ramp. G

Yes sand driving is a lot softer (pardon the pun) on your drive gear. I also do a lot of beach and dune driving in West Australia and never realy had a problem with a hub. Only when I was stuck in a dip and had to reverse and go forward a few times to climb out, the hubs locked with a clunk in reverse then unlocked and re locked when in forward again. On sand there is much less chance of damaging something because your wheels litteraly do not have the same grip and when the hub locks there is much less strain. Its probably only since I put bigger grippier tyres on that I have damaged the hubs on steep rock mud hills. Auto locking hubs are also realy good when crossing rivers with crocodiles in the north of Australia. Less ikely to be eaten.

solid snake Yea it really depends on the sort of 4x4 you do. I was quite happy with the auto locking hubs for the first 100,000 km but then I started to become a little more adventurous and the hubs were a bit more warn out which means they unlock easier. I have broken two auto hubs now. It happens if you are on a steep hill climb and get stuck, you roll back a bit to get another go at it (the hubs unlock) then you steer a little to take a new line and give it to her. Remember the hubs or sometimes only one are now unlocked but you are still in 4x4. As you put the power down the hub tries to lock just as maximum revs are reached. Grrrrrrr, clunk, bang! and you are a three or two wheel drive halfway up a steep hill. Scares the stuffing out of my wife. Not fun replacing a hub in the mud by the side of the track. I have carried a spare hub for a while now. As far as reversing down a hill (course I try not to be seen doing this) I find that the hubs unlock and then lock again as you use a little power but you really cant rely on them staying locked and using engine braking in 4x4, just have to ride the brakes, hope its a short hill. If the hubs are in good condition they work fine and do not unlock quite as easily. If you drive nice and smoothly it’s really not a problem until you do the roll back described above. Mine have done around 190, 000 km so I am about to swap to manual hubs. Now I will probably forget to lock them in and look like an idiot halfway up a hill in 2WD. Geordie