geordie4x4

Gazm3, As I understand it, the new 2006 TD has a lot of electronic control over the turbo boost, fuelling and the variable outlet nozzle. You may find that trying to override the waste gate confuses the computer and actually reduces power (emergency override). There are several brands of ad-on computer control chips, DTronic or Safari (from ARB) and Diesel Power www.dieseltuning.net.au. These are plug-in units that can get the computer to increase boost and fuel by fooling it, feeding it bogus information of boost, exhaust oxygen, fuel setting, revs etc. Some of these claim power gains of 30% or more. Some are reprogrammable so that you can plug in the laptop and see what the settings are then increase as you desire. If you want more than this (30%) from a plug-in chip, then have a look at Diesel - LP Gas conversions. www.dieselgas.com.au Have fun Geordie

Datsunman, yes bolt one on but it needs good airflow to work well. I have fitted one on top with a Nissan Patrol bonnet scoop and a fan for when I am going slow but working hard (beach / sand driving in the Summer). I discarded the whole crossover pipe from the turbo to the manifold including the butterfly valve (the thing that looks like a throttle body and valve is for pollution control). Fuelling is increased by a boost sensor on the back of the fuel pump, so you do not need to adjust it. This in connected by a small rubber pipe from the bend on the inlet pipe and runs down between the manifold to the pump. You can fit new injectors and check the fuel pump timing and this will also make a big difference (cut black smoke and increase power). Bigger exhaust also helps and better intake / filter. Geordie

I tried lotts of different globes and rewired the whole lot. I now have propper HID Xenon kit fitted and it is great.

Bobby, I put your question to the auto trans specialist who I go to. He agrees with what 88 says i.e. if it has not been changed for a very long time the built-up crap covers all the seals, bearings, clutch and pressure plate packs and 'bands. He did however say that if you leave it (don’t change fluid), then the wear will only get worse and that if the fluid is brown do something sooner rather than later. He also mentioned that the fluid flush does not use ant solvents or detergents (or should not) as that would definitely move all the old crap and possibly make seals leak and clutch/bands more likely to slip. The fluid flush should be a quite gentle replacement of fluid by pumping it through and not a chemical or high pressure wash. You could always just do a fluid change and see how it runs for the next few thousand miles and how quickly the fluid changes colour. Geordie

I’m with 88 on this, clean it and rust proof inside and outside the frame and underbody and you will have fewer problems. I have a 92 Terrano that started its life in Japan on salted roads but thanks to the previous owner had been rust proofed from new. The only rust it has anywhere is in a door that was repaired by a panel shop and not treated inside. I drive on the beach a lot, launch a boat in the surf and drive on muddy salt lakes but clean it well after. I have made a long hose spray attachment to clean under and inside the chassis frame after muddy trips. I also regularly re-apply under body black stuff and spray inside the frame with fish oil, Penetrol or cavity wax. When I purchased the Terrano as a second hand import to Australia, I looked at dozens of other vehicles (all 1989 to 1993 Terrano) and found most had rust under the back seats on the floor around seatbelt attachment plates. Probably because the Japanese owners never intended to keep these cars very long they never bothered to rustproof or clean them.Mine was the first that I saw with no rust and had clearly been rustproofed inside and out. If you start with no rust and look after it you can keep it that way. Geordie

Another thing to check is that the ait breather into the tank is not blocked. When you open the fuel filler cap, if you hear a hiss of air back into the tank then the breather is blocked. On cold mornings the air in the tank contracts creating a slight negative pressure and inhibits fuel supply. I have just seen a similar problem in a Holden Jackaroo here in Australia, when the cap was removed it started first time. The problem was a small air filter on the air breather line at the top of the tank. I think there is one on the Terrano tank at the top corner near the filler hose. It is not easy to get at from below so you could try through the inspection cover under the back carpet. Pete your idea to pressurise the tank may also do the trick for the filter blockage. Geordie

I do many thousands of km at night on Australian country roads. In my search for better lighting: First I fitted higher wattage (130H/90L) bulbs that burnt the earth wire. Next I made up a full Hella wiring harness with relays for H and L and fitted 100W xenon-halogen globes. These were very bright but gradually burnt the reflector chrome just above the bulb. When one blew on High beam the glass actually popped and smoked the reflector. Finally I have fitted a full HID Xenon H4 35w high and low beam light kit and wow it is bright. I also have a set of Lightforce spotties with Xenon globes and they are fantastic for spotting roos in the distance with the spot beam and on the side of the road with a wide angle cover on one light. My advise would be to fit a wiring harness with relays and earth wires all the way back to the battery. Only fit good quality higher wattage globes, cheap ones can damage reflectors. If you need extra light for long country trips and have $$ go the HID bi Xenon H4 kit. Geordie

I just thought of something else, I see that the newer D22 (about 1998 - 2000) Navara ute here in Australia has an adjustable lower pivot bolt. This is an offset bolt with a lock washer at the front lower arm to chassis pivot. It can be turned to move the lower arm in or out. Would this fit in a WD21. G

arctic-mark, You mentioned the UCA movement problem I had the same problem with my Superlift UCA bushes being too long for the spindle resulting in excessive forward and rear movement of the UCA under breaking. The problem was the length of the "crush tube" I measured them and ground them down by about 5mm, this also improved the caster angle by holding the UCA back on the spindle. Slotting The upper ball joints have threaded holes so can not be slotted. you could slot the holes in the UCA but it would have to be done well to avoid problems. I had an engineering shop slot the hole 6mm inward and make up a small spacer to fill the slot and use a larger washer and high tensile bolts to hold it all tight. This corrected the positive camber to slightly negative. That was 80,000km ago and my wheels haven’t fallen off yet. Pity to have to do anything to a new lift kit to make it fit correctly. If the camber is too far negative (in at the top) they fit spacer washers to the bolts mounting the UCA spindle to the chassis. This can also fix caster angle by fitting washers only to the front or back bolt of the spindle thereby tilting the spindle and UCA forward or back as needed. But if the wheels are hinging out at the top, then more major surgery is needed. Creaking As 88 said, lubricate the new parts you installed, but if that doesn’t work try this. The creaking in mine was from the lower rubber bushes to the chassis being over stretched and fighting the lift. I simply loosened the bolt and allowed the inner stele tube to rotate on the pivot bolt directly in front of the torsion bar then tightened it up. I also found this was the case with the rear trailing rods bushes. All the standard rubber bushes are vulcanised into an inner and outer stele tube. When you lift the vehicle they are not sitting in a neutral position unless you slacken the bolt and allow the inner crush tube to re settle (and tighten again). Geordie

The hitch I got for my Terrano in Australia (Reece Hitch) came with all the mounting hardware. This bit may help: The nut to go inside the chasis had a large flat rectangular plate welded on to it to spread the load and a long piece of thick wire (also welded on) so it could be pushed down the chasis and lined up with the bolt hole. The flat plate washer also held the nut from turning as the bolt was done up. The wire was fairly soft so it can be bent and left inside the chasis or removed by working it back and forward until it breaks at the weld. I did this for four of the six nuts and gave up on the last two. There were three of these bolts through the chasis on the left side, two on the right and the bar bolted to the rear bumper brackets and to the existing tiedown or tow points welded onto the chasis. Man it is solid. Geordie

Datsunman, yes I have seen the same filter with the longer center pipe. I think it is to fit an older non-turbo 2.7D motor as well as some other vehicles These are also listed on the box of the Z502 (MO-229) filter Mazda IND02-14-302. IND04-14-302. ISUZU 5-86102-408-0 5-86122-879-0 The one I use has the shorter tube and I think it fits both TD27 and non turbo. NZ Terrano Owner, sAl I am not sure of the difference between the Z416 and Z502. I am off work getting ready for a trip so I could look at the local parts shop and find what other filter brands they have a listing for. Geordie

Datsunman, thanks for the useful info and photos. I think I will have to just keep on driving the old Pathy as she is and save the twin air lockers for the next 4x4 (a bigger Datsun). I am heading off in a week for a 3000km 4x4 trip to the Pilbara region in the North of West Australia. So I have to give up on diffs for now and get the rest of the Pathy into good order. Cheers Geordie

SW, naa that’s not stupid at all. I only recently found out just what is inside a LSD when I removed mine. It is a pity that there are just so many different versions of the same diffs. Makes compatibility bloody difficult. Dan, any luck with your diff search ? I am just about to swap the diffs for lower ratio 4.875 from a newer Terrano 1994 model as I am also fitting new steering gear with Jeep ball joints, V6 CV's, V6 hubs, slotted disc rotors etc. But I still haven’t found what I am looking for (LSD R180 front).

Terrano Filter part numbers Here is what I can find in Australia for TD27 Terrano 1992 Oil Filter Ryco (Australian brand) Z502 about $ 32Aus MAX Nippon filter (Diakuan Filter co.) MO-229 $20.50 Aus to fit Nissan : 15208-20N02 15208-20N03 15208-20N10 15208-40L00 15208-40L02 15208-NS011 Nissan $75 Aus Fuel Filter Ryco Z332 Nissanpart numbers: 16403-59E00 16403-59E00AU Geordie

Matt, first be careful how high you go, it is there for a safety valve. It should blow at about 12psi. The spring can get weak and the valve can stick. You could try cleaning the valve. I have blown mine off a few times and it seemed to stick open till the boost dropped to about 6psi then close. I cranked the boost up to a max of 12 to 13 using the link to the waste gate. The valve first blew black crap all over the manifold, so I assume it had not blown off for a while. I removed it and cleaned it out thoroughly. The boost now will go to 12 psi at full throttle and I have cranked the waste gate link back so not to go over that. There is no reason that you could not fit a large pipe fitting then an aftermarket adjustable blow off from a performance shop. They are a bit expensive but might give the control you need. There are guys that say they can get 15psi out of the factory turbo but that is a bit of a risk. The TD27 is an older style motor with a pre-injection chamber. I have heard that high boost can cause pre-detonation and damage, but I do not know what is the limit. G

My 1992 Terrano diesel motor must be the other way up to what you guys have in your US V6 Pathys. My AC compressor is at the bottom and the alternator is nice and high up out of harms way. Who said Australia was the Land Down Under. You could try fitting a decent bash plate to help stop the mud (as mentioned above). I have also been thinking of adding extra rubber protection to the sides of my bash plate.

I have just had the auto trans flushed with clean fluid. It was a little brownish but the guy reckoned that this is OK for the last year’s 40,000km including a trip around Australia towing a camper trailer. The flush was done by first draining and removing the pan, cleaning the filter, refit pan with a new gasket and refilling with new fluid. Then more new fluid was pumped in as the first stuff is pumped out through the cooler lines, with the motor running and selecting each gear during the process. This used about twice the quantity of fluid but put new fluid through all oil lines and the converter flushing all old stuff out without the box pumping dry at any stage. The guy I took it to is an auto specialist who does a lot of work on 4x4's hot rods and drag cars. He had a few interesting comments regarding my Terrano auto trans. 1. he suggested moving or spacing the additional trans cooler out in front of the aircon radiator to space it further away and give it better cooling effect when it is hot weather and the aircon is working hard. Normal summer temp here is around 30C+ (100F) and it is normal to get well over 45C up north and inland. 2. he also suggested that I do ‘not’ use the "power setting switch" for longer than is absolutely needed particularly when towing. This setting (power) he said not only raises the revs at which change up occurs but also keeps the lockup in the converter unlocked for longer thereby producing more revs and more heat build-up. 3. it is also possible to fit a manual override switch to the torque converter lockup wiring so that it can be set to lock, unlock or normal position. He said that this takes a bit of effort $$ for the wiring to properly install with solenoids and diodes so that there is no risk of reverse voltage damaging or shorting out the electronic control of the trans. Has anyone done this modification and is it worth the effort. Or are there drawbacks, risks. Geordie

Here is my 1992 Terrano it is pretty much a Pathfinder 92 diesel, imported to Australia from Japan with only 35,000km on the clock. Has all the features of your luxury models. Economy is good if my right foot is behaving well (or the wife drives) it uses about 10L per 100km I think thats about 30mile/gal. Geordie

Yes you could swap the side gears from an older model 25 spline r180 into a Terrano 27 spline r180 but only from an open diff not a LDS. In the LSD, the side gears are part of the LSD clutch so can't be swaped for non LSD gears. I have thought of fitting a 25 spline r180 Subaru LSD but then I would have to fit the 25 spline axle shafts to the diff and they have a smaller diameter on the bearings and oil seals into the diff housing. Too much trouble for a setup that is not any stronger. I might have to get out the welder soon.

Good news and bad. On the Weekend I have been searching through diffs at a Subaru-specialist wrecking yard. The r180 diff does indeed exist in the rear of several Subaru Impreza, Forester and other models with a LSD in the sports and limited versions. However, I could only find LSD centres with 22 to 25 splines in the side gears. The Terrano r180 has 27 splines. This might exist in the higher powered Subaru SVX but as the guy at the wreckers said, they are as rare as rocking horse droppings. Will keep looking.

Hi Dan, yes I am thinking of the same complete front diff swap to a V6 R200. I am just sick of waiting for someone here in Perth to write-off their V6 but only wreck the back half and leave me a good front. Hope yopu have a few more V6's in the wreckers yards over there. Have you found any other vehicle with a R180 LSD as a rear diff. I was wondering what lives under a Nissan Nomad van. Several other Terrano parts are the same ? Good luck Geordie

That is one good thing about diesel, you can't blow the stuff up if you try. I watched a guy (a licensed fuel tank manufacturer) weld my diesel tank after only draining the fuel. It smoked a bit but did not even catch alight. I was standing well back ready to run, but nothing went off. If you are thinking of a larger tank replacement I have found that a Nissan GU Patrol 90L tank fits straight in. That is if you guys find them over there in the wreckers (junk) yards.

The auto trans also has a breather hose located on the right rear (on mine). This rubber hose breather runs back to the cross member near the transfer case where it joins the transfer case breather and both join into a metal pipe that runs up inside the engine bay. I have extended mine higher and fitted a small filter to reduce dust intake. I have seen these hoses pulled off by driving through sticks and bush so check that it is in good order. Also check the other breathers for the diffs (I think there are other posts about this). I just had my auto trans serviced by a specialist and he also replaced the transfer case fluid with light gearbox oil (not with ATF) as he reckoned that it was better for the hard use I give the vehicle. It just occurred to me that there is then a possibility for contamination of different oils from the auto breather to the T case via the joined breathers. Is that remotely possible?

If you have a genuine Nissan factory fitted sunroof, it should have two rubber strips. One is a flat strip moulded to the edge of the glass and seals against the outer roof. this is only a dust seal. The second seal is more like a car door seal facing up on the metal rim of the inner roof. It seals up under the sunroof glass. Any water that leaks past the outer seal should end up in the gutter around the sunroof and drain down plastic tubes inside the roof and down the front "A" pillar. See this link for Pathfinder partnumbers http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...topic.php?t=416

Yeah, the tire shops are no better in Australia. Must be that same pimply kid on the rattle gun that over tightened my wheel lock nuts (lug nuts) and buggered the shaped locking key bit. OOOYEAH, I found out when I got a flat tire out in the desert only about 2500km from home and 500km from the nearest town and could not get the wheel lock nut off with the key nut. I ended up using a socket that just fitted over the outside of the lock nut and bashed it on with a hammer so I could remove the lug nut. Stuffed the socket and the lock nut. It was such a nice warm day to be changing a flat only 45C in the shade (that’s about 150F, a bit like summer in Arizona). MMM I was so pleased when I got back to the tire shop. Now I use a different tire shop and I stay and watch everything they do. They must think I am a pain in the ass but I have never had that problem again. Also I carry spare front and rear studs and lug nuts. Isn't it nice how easy it is to find people who do a job properly these days.