Vsicks Pathy

I only said it looked good to be nice. Whenever I bag something the world falls in for some reason?

Guess what colour mine is.

I am confused. I thought you were rebuilding the grey/charcaol Pathy? Now we see the white one in the shop? How about some pictures of your new metal before it all goes in, or has the plan changed?

I am a firefox man.

No. It is the forum? It will only give me general topics and show me who is on. Nothing else. It is fine again now though.

Bloody thing is doing it again. No matter how many times I refesh, it is still the same!

I don't know what car they were talking about, but stranger things can and do happen. All 4wds risk breakages if a fast spinning wheel suddenly finds traction. Especially the on the front. More so for an IFS car than a live axle car, but the risk is still there. A locker in the front is preferred by pro drivers if only a single locker is going to be used (we have flogged this topic to death in the past so look it up). It makes sense (to me) that a locker in the front will help prevent the front wheels from spinning at different speeds and thus sh!tting themselves when traction is found. The new fad here is to put LSD in the front. It helps with traction not to the same extent as a locker but a LSD will not bind while turning, thus allowing you to steer. A LSD will also let go well before a CV breaking point is reached if it is set up correctly.

No, I have not heard of anyone doing what you suggest. That is not to say that it can not be done if you engineer everything correctly. Sounds like it will take a while and a fair amout of $ though. You have not said how you will incorperate any of this to the Nissan stub axle assembley. Are you suggesting a one peice drag link like a truck uses? If so that will not work with the IFS front end. Car and truck parts, in general, do not mix! If you are only talking about larger TRE's then you will have to make a new drag link altogether otherwise you risk the wheels pointing out and no room to turn them in. Then you will have to be able to get an idler arm and tha pitman arm to somehow fit also. Then you have to find someone to enlarge and retaper the recieving holes for the ball joints on the stub axles, idler and pitman arm. Thats if you are going to be left with enough steel to do that that is. By the way, the pitman arm on the Pathfinders are fine, they are as strong as nails. Sounds like a good project if you can get over a few hurdles. I wonder why SLR and Calmini etc. never thought of doing it that way? Good luck and let us know what you plan to do.

All well and good to have the fastest if you want to race it I suppose. Other than that, the point would be what?

It's back.

Half my page is missing. No year/model pathy section etc anywhere to be found?

A donk with power will handle the 35's no problem. In fact, 35's will actually put a Pathy in the standard range on fuel consumption. But his front end....... I agree with you 88. Money wasted if you plan to go off road.

What can I say. Finally, it is easier to do something to a Pathy in Australia than in the USA. I never thought I'd see the day. I am talking about a live axle, and coiled to boot. That aside, I am more interested in the engine swap side of this thread. Having swapped my 2.4ltr for a 3.8ltr, I may be able to give you some tips. My Pathy too has 4.625:1 ratios. There are actually 3 different diff ratios for the Pathy. 4.3x, 4.6x and 4.8x. This info might enable you to match a little more closely? The 4cyl Pathy and the 6cyl Pathy share the same ratios and box match ups regardless of 4cyl or 6.. When I fitted my 3.8ltr I lost the need to use first gear. Keep in mind I was still running stock 30" tyres. The difference in the torque of the two motors made first gear hit max rpm after about 1 second. I have since put 33's on and it is a lot better. However, to achieve a proper aspect ratio, I will have to get 34's or 35's. The Pathy is notorious for poor fuel consumption. This is because it is underpowered and it is gearing is up the creek. This chart explains what I am talking about. Nissan had to wrongly gear Pathies because the engines they used are too gutless to pull a correct aspect ratio. So, if you are going to swap the engine for something with more ponies, don’t bother changing ratios etc. just upsize your tyres.

Looks like a nice Pathy, and he spared no expense. Still, you can't help but wonder.... how many minutes would the front end last on a medium to tough 4wd track? I'd guess 5. Is anyone else thinking that a sas would have been around the same price and a little more pertinent? Anyone??

It was a rude question I know, but it had to be asked. All the power to him for having the time and money for such an undertaking, not forgetting the skill that will be involved. Funny, I didn't see "sas" in his work to do list though. If you are going to spend up large, then a sas is a must have item. I will be interested to see how it looks after it has been finished, and then in a years time to see if any of the rust has resurfaced. I hope the latter isn't the case.

Good luck to you then. But even on "pimp my ride" they have put cars to rest. May I ask what the cost of the makeover is going to be?

Man, you are very ambitious. The rust in your firewall to engine bay (what you are calling the inner guard?) would have turned me off straight away. There doesn’t seem to be any surface area there that you could weld new metal too. The other pics of the car and all of the rust would have seen me tossing it down the tip (you call it a dump) as a lost cause. Are you sure that restoring ‘that’ Pathfinder is going to be economically viable? Rust is very hard to get rid of unless you cut it out, and even then, it will still come back unless done properly. Seeing where, and the amount of rust that you have, I have my doubts that you will get rid of it, even for a short period of time. And anything you try is only going to be in vein. I am not knocking you for attempting to bring that Pathy back to life, far from it. I would just hate to see you throw good money and time after bad. Let it P.I.P.

You have a PM. If you follow what I said, you will never have this sort of issue with your lights ever again. PM me on how you went with it.

I can tell you what is going to happen next but that would be pointless.

No scoring.... Just curious.

Email them and ask.

No. You will have to buy the whole thing.

They guys and girls here will soon point you in the right direction.

So, did you remove the steering wheel or not?

Those tyres are 33's max. This guy has 35's http://www.cardomain.com/ride/695964 The tyre size is obvious when you compare the two. My opinion anyway. This guy is a member of OL (crackajnr). Look him up and ask him questions if you like.