tmorgan4

I've got one that I've had for a few months and has worked pretty well aside from a few defects. First off, Weapon-R has a few of the hose connectors on the wrong side and forced the tubes to get pinched shut when the hood was closed, and wouldn't let the engine start. I just got some longer tubing, and then accidently broke the small, extremely brittle connector off on accident. Fixed it with some stuff I had around here and has worked well ever since. Sounds pretty good too. I'll get some pictures if you'd like, it looks quite a bit different than the ones on their site. Also, I got mine on ebay for a few $$$ less than the website your looking at.

The reason the light is coming on is since the button is bad and senses that the door is coming "open" when you hit a bump or take a turn. The reason your horn no longer honks when you lock it with the keyless entry is the car thinks that a door is open, the one with the bad button. All the door still lock, and I'd imagine that the door with the bad sensor is still getting locked as well. Mine refuses to honk when you lock the car and a door isn't shut all the way, but the lights still flash. As soon as the sensor gets fixed all should be well.

I'm getting 13-14 after a tuneup -thnkboutit-

I did. It's somewhere on here in the r50 forum. Now that I think about it, I can't remember if it's a 40 or a 50 series. Whatever it says in the thread is correct.

Thanks guys I'll take it back out tomorrow then. I took a good look around and didn't see anything, but I think there has to be.

Ever since the winter I've had a noise that's gotten worse everyday (happens more often) that comes from the motor under the dash on the passenger side. Usually if I have it on setting I it's less likely to occur, but will come on and off when I hit bumps in the road. Almost sounds like something is rubbing against the blades of the fan. I took the motor out awhile ago, and its silent when it's not installed, but as soon as you put it back in I get the noise again. It only occurs when the heat is on, and I have no other ideas as to what it could be. Thanks guys!

For some reason I didn't even think of using heli coils. We use them all the time in the ski shop I work at when the binding holes are stripped out. Anyone know the size and thread pattern for these holes?

I'm in need of some help. I'm building a bumper for my r50, and after putting on and taking out the bolts where the factory tow hooks attach are stripped. The bolts are a little messed up so I'll be getting new ones tomorrow, but I need idea about what to do with the holes. Here's my ideas so far. 1) Try threading a tap of the same size and thread pattern through, hoping there's enough left for it to make new threads (doubtful!) 2) Drill the holes out and tap 1 size larger 3) Drill the holes out completely, and attach with a bolt and a nut on the other side. It seems like there's already a nut attached there when I felt around, but it's welded on and the threads are gone. The backside is not easily accessible so it's the last method I'd like to try. Not sure what to do, any help or better ideas are appreciated! Also, does anyone know which bolts go where in these holes? I just noticed there are 2 different types: 1 with threads all the way to the end, and the other with threads about 5mm from the end. Maybe I just ruined the threads since I can see the outline of them except it's completely flat.... -thnkboutit- Tyler PS - It's these bad boys right here! (on both sides!)

Whats the gauge on that thing used for? :idea:

I'd like to know more about this too. Any other pictures?

Does yours have a seperate tank/output gauge?

Dean, did your rear bumper or hitch scrape in the last pic?

I've seen the stuff at local hardware stores, maybe even Home Depot.

How long would you expect one of those tanks to last with fairly high powered air tools like an air ratchet or impact wrench? I'm looking for an alternative to purchasing an air compressor for the garage that can crank out 10CFM if I could do the ocassional use with a tank in the back. The one im looking at I assume is 15lb's since it claims 50% more air than that 10lb tank.

Take out your glovebox and there's a space behind there. I have a diagram somewhere, I'll see if I can find it. Mine didn't have one, but it had a space to add one which I've been meaning to do.

If you have time, let the engine run for awhile at high rpms to burn off as much of the gas as you have time to do. It would take quite awhile to empty the whole tank, but I would think the less you have the better the outcome might be.

I have a manual tranny so I can't give you any advice with the auto. I use 4LO only when I need to, usually when climbing steep grades so I don't fry my clutch trying to get it into gear, or when descending a steep grade and let the engine slow the truck down. I have the whine on mine as well, which I believe is just because the gear are spinning FAST compared to in 4HI. Since 4Lo can only be driven up to 25mph (I believe thats the speed) I only use it when its required, and put it back in 4HI as soon as I'm done climbing/descending whatever it was.

When I drove around without a bumper for a few weeks, I hit a "small" pond (probably 2 feet deep) and soaked the air filter with the stock box. I didn't realize how much easier water made it up the tube without a bumper (similar to yours) than with it on.

I hope mines not on it's way out. I've felt it get noticably "weaker" since the time I got it. Whenever the cars loaded up with people/gear it's VERY hard to turn, didn't used to be that way. Maybe I'm losing pressure somewhere.

Look in the r50 section from a few months back: I posted a video of my 2000 Pathfinder with a flowmaster 40 series. Theres a chance it was on AC's board, but I think it was here. I'll search for it. EDIT: Found the post. In real life it's not as "ricey" as it sounds in the video, it's pretty deep but the mic on these cameras really doesn't pick that up. You really have to turn the speakers up to hear the it at idle.

If its only when braking, theres a chance the rotors could be bad/warped.

Just bought the Harman Kardon iPod car kit tonight at Car Toys. I've been eyeing it for a little while and finally broke down and bought it. Here's a few quick pics, I'll get better ones later. BTW it works AWESOME aside from a few small glitches! A few messy wires (decided to install a seperate 12 volt plug-in behind the dash to power it) All done. Dark

Some models included them, some didn't.

From what I've heard it's normal for it to grind randomly, you shouldn't need to wait at all. As long as the transmissions in neutral I don't think theres anything else you can do. I've gotten to the point where I just ignore the sound since nothing can be done.

Reverse also has a hell of a lot more torque than 1st gear, let alone 2nd. When I've tried starting mine from first I can do it when barely moving and the tires skid at first but eventually catch and starts right up. Going in reverse would just allow you to start it going even slower, right?