andreus009
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Posts posted by andreus009
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Not to long ago after doing my transfer case gear change out I refilled with Royal Purple MaxGear 75W90 which was available at Advance Auto Parts.
I was in a hurry and there were not a whole lot of options. I remember doing internet search on the good ole iphone to verify that it was okay for synchros/soft metals. I don't remember what I found but reading this topic made me re-visit what I had done. The best I found was their FAQ site: http://royalpurple.com/faqs-transmission.html, which says it is "noncorrosive to soft metals found in manual transmissions that specify a GL-4 rated lubricant."
So far I haven't had any issues, but the Pathy is no longer the daily driver so not too many miles on it since the gear swap.
Oh yeah....it's expensive too...like $19.00 a quart...so moral of the story is plan ahead an order one of the tried and true oils mentioned above.
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$400 for set. Sent PM also please read.
Thannks
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Well...31" tires changed my actual speed vs speedometer reading by about 5mph at around 55-60 mph. I've upgraded to 33" tires so I have these available in case your interested. The top 2 are Dueler AT D695. The bottom 2 are Dueler AT also but an older version. All 4 still have good tread life left and only have been off the vehicle for about 1 year or less and been sitting here on the covered patio. No sun exposure.
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I got the stock 15x6 chromies, tryin to find legos local but not having any luck. really want some 15x7's or 8's so I don't wear my new 31's prematurely.Been trying to find some used uppers but not having any luck.im prob gonna end up building a winch bumper.if i can find upper arms may just buy my wheels and do the lift.
If you're running 31x10.50s there shouldn't be premature wear by using the stock chrome rims. I and others have run like this for years. The premature wear i had came from having wack steering/alignment issues.
Yes...i beat my Pathy....she likes it....mostly!
[<--This comment was for entertainment purposes only. Don't try this at home unless you have spare vehicle] -
Love It
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Use a cork....easy to remove if you ever need to equalize the pressure in the cabin. (sorry..couldn't help the smart a$$ answer)
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Just based upon votes alone I'm leaning towards the Silverado, but of course I will test drive all of them and see which suits me the best and can get best deal on.
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Hey thanks everyone for their input. Its good to get some people's opinions and hear the stories of who's owned what and what success they had with it. I dismissed the Titan, because from some reviews I read the American vehicles had them beat from a truck stand point. The other reason Toyota is out is because I have usually found them to be a bit pricey, thus the reason I'm a Pathy owner instead of 4Runner.
I definitely plan to test drive at least one of each one and look around for a good deal. I'm not in big hurry since I don't need till next year in the spring. I'll start test driving in January. The dealers are gonna love me ;-) The only thing I'm gonna miss with the Focus is.........ok..the gas mileage.
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Well, I love my Pathy but the reliability of it for long trips has come into question, so I'm looking to trade-in my four banging Focus for a vehicle capable to tow the Pathy to where I want to wheel. I've kind of narrowed my list to the 4 choices above, and just like to get some opinions on which one peoples around here would pick. My year range is 2007-2009.
Ford, Dodge, and Toyotas are out. Why, hate Ford (inherited the Focus), think I hate Dodge more, and just don't see myself towing a Nissan with a Toyota.
Anyway, any comments welcome.
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I be a mechanical engineer in the power generation industry. In a round about way I keep your lights on.
I know what to build...problem is I don't owns the equipment to builds it.
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I did all the front seals (crank and 2 cam shaft seals) the last time I did the timing belt. No dropping the pan was required for this on my 95. Having a seal pulling tool helps, but it can be done with screw drivers (at least I've been told) Always be cautious of scratching the shafts when you are doing this.
Loosening and tightening the cam sprockets can be a bit tricky. I think the FSM tells you stick screwdriver through the one of the holes in the sprocket and wedge against the metal plate behind to keep the sprocket from turning. The metal plate behind isn't all that thick so it distorted when I did the first one. I later figured out a trick with two socket wrenches. One socket just fit in one of the holes cam sprocket with the arm of this wrench coming across the socket that was on the cam sprocket bolt. This way you counter turn both wrenches and apply good torque to socket on cam sprocket bolt. Wish I had a picture.
As far as I know the only way to get to the rear main seal is to pull the tranny.
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If the bar doesn't slid back out of the front with the front tires fully drooped try jacking up the A-arm some. I've had this help get the bar out without having to disconnect the connection point at the A-arm.
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Valvoline Durablend 10W-40 plus Lucas oil stabilizer. I like red bottles....they are easy to find in the store!
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Ok...done a little searching but haven't found what I'm looking for. Let me describe the problem first.
I can drive around town all day long and have no problems. However, if I go out on the highway and get the engine fully heated up then the problem will come into play. If I'm going along at constant speed, let off of the gas, and then go back on the gas then the engine will sometimes start to miss. Sometimes it will recover on its own eventually, or I'll have to down shift, rev up and then up shift again. During the engine missing the Check Engine light comes on. I just pulled the codes today and it comes up 33 and 34. The 33 is the O2 sensor which is probably being tripped because of raw gas going through while it is missing. The 34 is the infamous Knock Sensor. So does anyone know what happens when the knock sensor goes bad? Will it cause the engine to miss or lose lots of power???
From what I've read so far the knock sensor signal is used by the ECU to control the ignition timing advance. Basically as I understand it, by using this signal the ECU advances the timing just to the point of knocking and then backs off a bit. So I could see how if this signal was bad, then it might affect the performance.
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In stock setup the largest you can go without any issue is 31x10.50. These will rub the frame rail a little at full steering lock but it doesn't cause any issue.
4x4parts.com sells body lifts and suspension lifts.
P.S. There a lot of threads about tire size and lifts around here. Try searching around. You can find a lot of interesting stuff.
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Here is my thing with the rear ABS. In order for it to function BOTH wheels have to lock at the same time because it relies on the drive shaft for the speed sensor. I guess it will function ok in really slick conditions, but in something intermediate or variable more often then not one wheel will lock before the other without even triggering the ABS.
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Just a quickie add-on of advice.
Have a second person on hand when you actually go to remove the transmission. As stated earlier...its a heavy b*^ch!
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Actually ended up pulling it back to the round ~ 4" tube that goes between the frame rails over top the differential. First wrapped the tube in some rubber, then heavy duty tie wrapped the drive shaft in place through the holes in the drive shaft flange. The other end was still engaged on the output shaft so it couldn't fall out, but it did have some up and down play on the spline, so I added a strap under the shaft near the transfer case so it would hold it tight in the up position.
Also, with it pulled back like this it leaves a gap between the drift shaft disk and the dust cover over the tcase. Wrapped this area with a trash bag and tie wrapped in place.
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I wouldn't remove the drive shaft!! Disconnect it at the differential and hang it...
Oh, clock the bolt pattern so you bolt it up the same way.
B
Actually hanging it was my plan ;-)
Yeah, clocking is a good idea. Not sure if I've done it every time i pulled the shaft, but will probably do it this time since i remembered to mark it.
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Planning on flat towing my pathy to North Carolina in a few days.
I plan on disconnecting the rear drive shaft to be safe. Anything else I should be thinking of?
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How are those KM2's treating you?
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Muy Bueno!
They have good grip...I'd like to try them in some mud sometime but so far haven't had the opportunity. *lol*
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Ok, I think I have looked for an hour now and haven't got everything I want. Please help me answer the question areas for the stock chrome steel rims that typically came with XE models. I'm selling my tires and rims, so want to have all the information available for the craiglist ad:
Rim Dia = 15
Rim Width = 6 or 6.5?
Backspacing = 3.75 or 4.00?
Bolt pattern = 6 on 5.5
Thanks!
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Check your front sway-bar too. I took mine off and now it behaves similar to what you are describing. Personally, I don't believe the locker is responsible for this behavior since when you have good traction an open diff behaves the same, i.e. equal power to both wheels.
Jan 2012 TotM nominations
in Truck of the Month
Posted · Edited by andreus009
andreus009
"IF IT WAS AN AUTOMATIC I'D BE OUTTA HERE. I'M A CITY DOG"