andreus009
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Posts posted by andreus009
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Jealous!
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Well, since my post was in 2009 I was hoping that Warn may have resolved the issue by now with their studs. Was going to ask about it.
As you can tell by my recent posts the stainless didn't work out so well but that may have more to do with them loosening on their own, but if the body of bolt had engaged the unthreaded bore on the wheel hub/flange it would have limited the bending of the bolt and lessen the likelihood of breakage. If it is not a super tight fit it is still better than having threads in this area because the are definitely smaller in diameter than the body of the bolt.
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If you decide to go lsd make sure its a clutch type and not viscous.
Definitely...actually never heard of a viscous one before but the ones I've seen for our front axles have all been clutch type. Usually, they overstack them to make it tighter for less slip.
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The xterra my neighbor bought has front and rear ARB's, if you get one and need someone to set it up, his truck was done by a place in Orlando, Advance Driveline I think it is.
Thanks for the info, but I'd probably do it myself. I did the rear myself (BTW...an the H233 3rd is a heavy 'B') and my friend whose set up two on his frontier volunteered to help.
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Florida wheeling....hill surfaces are not exactly solid...more like shale covered. I would love to see what I could do with a front locker. Already got the crawler gears and rear locker.
BTW, the hills are man made so you guys can keep your snaky comments....LOL
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Thanks. I'll give that a shot when I have a chance. Busy day at work so far. Ugh
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I suspect you have an issue in the suspension somewhere. I would start with the tension rod (also sometimes compression rod), but look elsewhere also. The tension rod is sneaky because you can't see the damage that is happening. It'll wear through the sleeve and the rod itself without you ever really noticing it based upon assembled visual inspection. There is thread about these somewhere around here.
You wheel tire combo should not be an issue. I'm running 33s and have some vibration but everything except the tension rod bushings are factory original (210k+miles) and the tires haven't been balanced since I bought them about 2 years ago.
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Arb sent out a press release a few years ago and there is a video on YouTube somewhere comparing the 2. I also used to get emails from China all the time from them trying to sell them to me but bottom line is they are just that. A Chinese knockoff..= crap.
I highly recommend a selectable locker. Save up and get an ARB for the front. TJM offers one for the rear which is slightly cheaper.so consider that if anything else.
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
My rear axle already has a Detroit in it. Did that a few years ago. Been hanging with guys that are locked both front and rear. I can tell my hill ascents would be much smoother if I wasn't open up front because as its bouncing it looses traction and power goes to that side. The loose side then comes down gets a bite and the other side slips. Kinda propagates the bounce.
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I used grade 10.9 M6x1x30 sockethead cap screws IIRC. I see no reason studs are superior, but everyone has a different opinions.
B
It's not the strength I'm concern about so much but the engagement. If you look at the wheel hub/flange where the Warn hubs mount to you will notice that the threads start about a 0.25 inch below the surface. Generally speaking the reason this is done is so that the round body of the bolt/stud will be in this area and carry the load instead put the threaded section in shear. The problem with the cap screws I have found is that the round body of is only about 0.25 inch long which is only enough for the Warn hub itself and it doesn't protude into round section of the wheel hub/flange.
I just went through an ordeal of removing 4 broken bolts on my driver side. Partly my fault because I used stainless hardware that didn't want to stay tight for some reason, so I think they broke partly because they loosened up. Never the less, I'm starting to wheel harder so I would like to make sure this joint is as strong as possible and avoid breaking more bolts.
X2 on The excellent customer service at warn. I call them from time to time and they are always awesome.
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
SteeevO...I called that number you gave me and it just re-directed me to call a local dealer. Maybe I didn't select the right option?
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I know ARB makes a locker for the R200A front differential. Is there any other selectable locker available for it? The ARBs are expensive new and hard to come by used. I found a Chinese knock off of the ARB for half the price of a new ARB but..........
Alternatively, I'm thinking of doing LSD for the front. I'll probably scanvenge the parts and build it myself instead of buying one off the shelf. My question is does any have any experience running LSD up front? Was it a major improvement over open or just slightly better? I'd hate to go to all that work to build it and be let down.
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Jellysee will get you nowhere, must we remind why 4 doors hide their rear handles?
To keep the 2 doors from getting so jealous about being left out.
Having said that.....On Friday/Saturday I installed new rear bumpstops from Prothane thanks to some research help from ahardbody. Today I flogged the heck out of it at HardRock (http://www.hardrockmx.com/index.htm) in Ocala. Doing a pretty good job of keeping up with fully locked Jeeps. Expected blow out something in the IFS today, but seems it held together so far. Think I would really like to get the front locked or at least LSD it.
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Yeah, I asked cause I'm looking to do a winch in the not to distant future so I need a better bumper. An improved rear bumper would be good to since mine is starting to look like orgami gone wrong.
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Wishing you the best of luck and progress. Done the transmission in the driveway before with rain and it sucks. At least it wasnt cold.
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So who knows what happened to Kennesaw? I tried the website link I had the other day it didn't work. Also, did a google search and couldn't find it.
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Replaced a missing nut on my exhaust. Quieter now.
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Ok. I'll give them a try. I tried Fastenal near my work yesterday and they didn't have anything suitable.
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Ressurection! What studs did you use?
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Decided to go with these Prothane 19-1308 Red 3. Measured 9" from the frame to the bump stop pad on the axle and measured 7" from tire to the 12 o'clock position of the wheel well fender flare. So a 3" bump stop should keep me from rubbing...if it doesn't compress too much. If it does I'll just put spacer block behind it.
Thanks again.
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Thanks. I'll look at these in more detail tonight.
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Back to Bump Stops.
The ones you posted above for the rear are a single center bolt attachment based upon the picture. The Pathfinder rear bump stops are two bolt attachment. See your pic above.
So I need ones like these but I gotta figure out the height. BTW, how did you cross-reference to Summit?
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Rotated tires, replace lower bumps tops up front, found broken rear bump stops, extracted 4 broken bolts on my drivers side manual hub, realized i need to replace all the suspension bushings soon and probably ball joints as well.
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Well just looked at rear ones. Need those as well it seems so I guess you have me the info I needed before I knew I needed it.
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Holy $h!t man...that could be worse then the accident itself.
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I know this sounds crazy, but if its something you can't get 'cleaned' off rather scratches then you could try a Mr. Clean 'Magic Eraser' on it. Its amazing what these things will take off.
warn manual hub question
in The Garage
Posted
Thanks B. Think the 675-333 will work...just need to recheck the Warn hub flange thickness. I know the un-threaded portion in wheel hub is about .25" [6.35mm] deep.