andreus009
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Posts posted by andreus009
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Because it just won't quit......
I own a Tahoe which is generally my daily driver, but the Pathfinder is actually more fun to drive around town. What curb?
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The owner's manual gives a limit on the number of miles and speed that it can be towed w/o the driveshaft disconnected. I just looked at it and it is as follows for 4wd with both tranny and transfer case in neutral. Hubs Unlocked:
Automatic
Less than 30mph
Less than 40 miles
Manual
Less than 60mph
Less than 500 miles
Having said that....If you want to go any distance at highway speed then you need to disconnect the drive shaft. I have personally done this and towed it 2000 miles(2 round trips at 1000 a piece).
I don't have pictures but this is asically what I did.
- I wrapped a piece of rubber around the large cross-member that is up and above the differential. Tie wrap it in place. Rubber should be wider than the flange of the drive shaft that connects to the differential.
- I disconnected the drive shaft from differential and pulled it up to the rubber on the cross-member. Heavy duty tie wrap securely to cross-member so it won't move around while truck is being towed.
- Now since this pulls the drive shaft a bit out of the transfer-case I wrapped plastic (like a garbage bag) around the front u-joint up to the transfer case to keep dirt out of this area. You can tie wrap or tape in place as you see fit.
- Back to the differential. As I recall, there is not enough space between the differential flange and the differential housing to get the bolts out. So, I used some washers and the original nuts to keep the bolts from flopping around while the differential flange is spinning while being towed. Last thing you want is the bolt head machining into your differential housing.
Disconnecting is fairly easy...its only 4 bolts. The other parts don't take that long either. I just left the rubber piece in place after the first time I did it.
BTW, you don't want to pull the drive shaft all the way out because then you'll be losing fluid out the rear of the transfer case.
One thing you may want to keep in mind....is that if what you break is part of the steering you may be stuck anyway and even if it doesn't break but if it gets whacked out then you could severely wear your tires.
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Sorry, brain fart. Forgot in the later than 95 the stopped using the free running hubs. So yeah in your case the axles turn all the time.
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209K+ Miles. Probably more cause the odometer didn't work for about a year. Also, larger tires means I go more miles than I record, but those haven't been on there that long.
Knocking on wood regularly seems to have helped.
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PM sent. LOL!
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Torn boot = Dirt Ingress. As such the dirt will eventually ruin the CVs even if you seal them up now (boot repair). The time frame depends on [a] how much dirt has gotten in there, how much you use 4x4, and [c] what speeds you drive at in 4x4.
I have a torn boot now, but I primarily only use 4x4 offroad at slow speeds maybe about twice a year. So for me....it doesn't make sense to do anything until it starts making noise and I know its going bad.
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As my brain recalls it is a Teflon hose with a braided SS jacket. I'd really have to check my paperwork (if I can find it) to be sure. As another small note....if you do pick a hose type, verify that Amazon has it in stock. I ended having to drive to their Tampa store because they ran out of the type of hose I wanted here.
My fault really for not checking first and being in a hurry (I had a wheelin trip planned that I didn't want to miss) -
Well, I'm not AC guy but from what I recall from watching the gauge while the compressor cycled the needle would go down while the compressor was running and then would go up when the compressor cycled off. Did you try running the engine and turning the AC off? My present guess (not being an AC guy) is that the system is real low on freon so that when compressor kicks on, it just pulls the pressure down to an unreadable level.
It is connected to the low side which I'm assuming would be the suction side of the compressor so what I'm saying kinda makes sense. (At least to me anyway).
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I clocked it so the lines would run side by side and as low as possible to increase clearance to the header.
I basically took every precaution I could to avoid a line/hose failure. I didn't want to get stranded in the woods because an oil line blew...not to mention chance of destroying engine.
I'm a mechanical engineer by profession so I tend to overdo things a bit, but to me a bit of extra time and money upfront can save big time down the road.
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I usually use just a towel underneath in case I spill any removing the filter. Usually only a drop or two, but the filter is very full so got to be careful not to tip it.
The biggest install issue I recall was getting the ports on the engine side adapter to be at the bottom dead center. Think I had to peen some threads to get the thread insert for the engine side adapter located so it would stop the adapter in the right place.
In order to get the hose length, I took the kit to Amazon and bought the correct fittings first. Installed the fittings in the oil filter relocation parts and then installed the kit to the truck. I used some regular black rubber hose to figure out the necessary length. The Teflon hoses are very stiff so it's critical to get the length correct. I could've used like 1/4" more on one of the lines, but it worked out okay.
Yes, it is a Hayden kit...the only reason I know for sure is that its what I wrote in my signature.
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I don't really remember....I'd say it was under $100 for both but that is a guess. Its been a few years. I may have receipts not sure.
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That's an excellent setup. Where did you get those lines made? I tried to do this once but couldn't find a way to attach it there. I may actually go this route now and try again.
I think I used as the same kit RF600 and same location.
http://s859.photobuc...ilter Relocate/
Had the lines custom made by a place called Amazon hose. Teflon hoses (IIRC) with stainless sleeving.
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Just don't get it wet or feed it after midnight........(reference to the movie Gremlins in case I'm too old)
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Vaccum leak? Check the condition and secureness of the large hose after the MAF that goes to the intake manifold. Mine cracked all to heck and caused me to have some running issues. I do recall some hesitation on a quick accelaration from idle.
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Yes, you need the sleeves. They slip over the ends of the compression rod and slide into the bushings. If you don't use them there will excessive play between bushings and tension rods.
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I would suggest reading this thread first:
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/6957-shifting-on-the-fly/
While t may not be a direct answer to your questions, it does contain the info your are seeking
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This is just a thought, but if the torsion bars are free and its only held up in the adjuster drop the whole cross member. It at least gets it out from under the truck where you can work on it better. Once you do get them free..lubricate the splines. I've used white lithium grease here.
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Upper radiator mounts. Top bracket is factory. The spacer is a simple 2x3 aluminum square tub cut about 1.5 inches wide and used as a spacer
Lower bracket. It is a stamped steel piece bent with 2 90* bends to allow it to
bolt to top of frame where radiator originally sat then drops 3 inches and
allows for radiator to lock into place. Steel is about 1/8 inch thick. All
pieces upper and lower could easily be fabricated with simple tools.
Well, these pics and description are courtesy of my friend (thanks John) and his Frontier. I believe the pathfinder set-up was/is very similar.
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I guess they hold on to the name because it has an established label of dependability. Like a Camry or Civic in the car world, but at least those are cars and have stayed cars..... This thing will only find a path to the mall and back.
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On the fan shroud, can't you just pull out the piece at the bottom that clips in? Or do you still need to cut to give clearance. The E-fan is a major wiring effort.
My friend did it (radiator drop) to his Frontier. He's gonna try to get me some pics later today. I'll post them up for you. I don't know how similar they are, but maybe will give you and idea. You could try asking on the NOAS forum also.
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I had an upper control arm bolt fall out while on a particularly difficult trail at night. it was very hairy limping it through the rest of the trail to get back home.
Hellaflush yo!
Now that is a nightmare. I had one of these bolts get loose on me and that was just around town. Ever since, I check them periodically.
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Well, last week I sent my Pathy away.....to wait for me to play in the mountains of GA and later in URE in NC
My friend towed it with his diesel F350 to save me at least some of the strain on my gasoline Tahoe.
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Well, just putting it out there. My friend and I plan to be in URE on July 5th.
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^x2. Once you are in there do everything. I ended up having to re-use my old throw-out bearing because the one i got from the auto-parts store was rolling rougher than the old one. I had no way to get to the store to get a replacement. Needless to say.....about a year later I was pulling the tranny again.....to fix the throw out bearing.
I've got a traitor in the driveway!
in Off-Topic
Posted
I think they did...it's same block in a 300ZX I think. I guess that's where the similarities end.....