andreus009
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Posts posted by andreus009
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5-speeds make it hard to text.
Absolutely true...
It took some work to find my 5-speed Pathy and that was back in 97. Personally, i hate automatics. I like the hard lock between engine and drive line you get with the manual transmission....better speed control without touching the brakes. Also, they never seem to shift down when I think they should. I often find myself yanking the auto shifter into a lower gear.
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I have the same problem..I suspect you are correct the spring has lost tension over age, but getting inside the assembly to clean and lube would probably held.
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I got a replacement stud at NAPA for the rear. It was the same length as original. Longer studs won't work if you have the acorn style lug nuts. They will bottom out and not hold the wheel correctly.
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Nope. No body lift with the 31" tires in the above picture.
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You can run 31x10.50 on those without any mods. Minor rubbing on frame rail at full turn. I mean really minor. I was running 31x10.50 on those same stock rims before I went for the 33s and new rims.
This is what it looked like:
You'll have to add your own mud.
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http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27041
Above is what I did with 3" body lift. Others commented on other ways to set it up.
I suspect that you could run 32 with less mods and only the 3" body lift.
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Ok, I'm gonna throw you one idea I know from some experience. If your rubber intake tube that runs from the air filter box to the intake manifold is dislocated or has leaks (i.e. cracks) you can lose power and will cause check engine light.
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Amen! (Sorry useless post, but I don't like automatics)
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I bought my first pathy with 110k on it. On an up hill freeway on ramp it grabbed good in first, second, third, then slipped a bit in 4th (all high rpm shifts). That told me there was an issue. I pulled the tranny and the pressure plate was tired so it was only pushing against the outer 1/2 of the clutch disk so it had uneven wear from center to edge. At the out side edge it was down to the rivets.
Basically, you can pull the tranny and replace everything in the bellhousing (including resurfaced flywheel) for about 300-$350 (EOM parts are fine, talk to Alkorahil for great prices) or someone else said you can pull the tranny back just far enough to change out the pressure plate and flywheel (maybe $150) but you risk throw out bearing/rear mail seal issues before the clutch needs replacing. Either way, I HIGHLY recommend using a tranny jack.
B
x2 on they tranny jack. Had mine out twice without one. Bugger is not a friendly beast to maneuver!
Why do people take off in 2nd gear???? First is there for a reason!
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Sooo, like I said, Lockrite locker....
B
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Lockrite is probably the best bang for buck, BUT you need an open diff to install it in. What you CAN do is repack the LSD to be UBER stiff. It was just recently discussed so do a quick search, otherwise let me know if you can't find it.
Sorry, but I'm off to bed now...
B
What B fails to mention is your other options. Detroit (~2x price of LockRight) & ARB (~4x price of LockRight). In both cases you'll replace your entire differential carrier and swap your ring gear to a new carrier. There are 2 versions of the Detroit available for the H233B with 31 splines, but because you have LSD you would need the more expensive one:
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/complete-detroit-locker-assembly-p-5024.html
ARB is a controllable locker which means you can turn it on and off. The on and off function is controlled by air-pressure which means you need a compressor and a small air tank which adds to expense and install labor.
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But whatever you do, don't install an LSD differential in the front...
Huh? Why so?
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If rear main is leaking you should see oil dripping from the weep hole cut out in the bell housing of the tranny. 6 o'clock position.
How many miles on the clutch? I think I replaced my stock one around 100k
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Hey JJ,
Don't know if you need it or if it will fit on your 87 but I have a fully intact fan shroud that I don't need.
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My install of the PaceSetters was bit of a challenge, but some of that may have been my fault as torqued them to the heads before connecting the rest of the exhaust. Might have gone a little smoother if I had done it differently.
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23496&st=20
In the above thread I describe my challeges in a little more detail. Of course others, have had a lot less problems than I did.
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Gracias, Danke, Thanks!
Glad to see I wasn't the oldest one on the list!
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I guess you found replacements. Sorry, I missed your message in your other thread. (ya i know I'm a month+ late, been really busy lately) I just laid hands on mine, in case there is a need. Sorry again.
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Ouch. Welcome to broken stud hell. I say this because I had a similar circumstance happen to me. However, I had already gotten a hole into the stud that was just enough to tap for a 6mm stud. So far it has held.
Anyway here is my comments:
It's hard to tell but if understand correctly the extractor is broken off inside the stud and you plan to weld to it. I wouldn't be worried about the nut getting welded to the aluminum. That is virtually impossible, but the heat from weld can melt the aluminum. So keep that in mind. Also, I'd wonder about the compatability of welding to the hardened extractor. If I remember correctly hardened materials can be tricky to weld to sometimes. Do you know a fabricator shop that does welding? If so, I'd ask them what your chances are and recommended welding technique.
Alternate Ideas:
- Is this still on the driver's side? If it wasn't I'd be tempted to yank the head and take it to a machine shop to get the thing out.
- It looks like you have good access, so I might be tempted to cut a cross slot with a dremel cutting wheel. Honestly, I think the chances of success for this idea may be low, but I thought I'd throw it out there.
- Uh..okay i'm out of ideas...Good Luck
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I once the saw the advantage of an Auto when I had an open rear differential cause you can apply brakes and gas at the same time without stalling. Now that I have a locker.....I think I like the manual...especially for engine braking on the down hill side. Also, had a case where an Auto stalled, brakes did work well (lost vacuum), and we rolled backwards really dang fast down the hill.
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Just to throw in my 2 cents. I've tinkered with the idle adjust screw and it did not seem to do a darn thing
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Good point Simon...I forgot about ghosting. They do that often here at my office, but I've never personally done it.
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Anyone try to check the condition of the catalytic converter?
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Hmmm...my personal opinion would be to scrap the 30Gig and go for a 300 Gig drive. Yes, you would have to reinstall windows and software, but pretty much that would be the last time you would do it. Leave the external for back-up in case of main hard drive failure. External HDs are usually slower to access than the HD in the computer.
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Well, I don't have a solution but I have had a similar issue. Sometimes it will do it two or three times in a week but then not do it again for a month or two. Kind of weird. It has been so infrequent that I never bothered to try to figure it out. If there is a way to electrically disable the Control Valve to see if it stop the issue before replacing it. Just a thought.
Pacesetter Headers
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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I got the ceramic coated Pace Setters...a little challenge on the install but they seem to be holding up okay.