andreus009
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Posts posted by andreus009
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Good ideas!! I do not have an air hammer and with wedges, I'd have to force against the bottom of the steering box which doesn't sound like all that good of an idea. Engineering/making a puller that is stronger is something I considered, but time and materials need to be factored in, not to mention the one I have is pretty beefy already...
Yeah, I didn't know about the wedging thing, but since I wasn't looking right at it to access the risk to the box I thought I'd through it out there.
What about the one from your parts truck? If you destructo remove the one and get the one off the parts truck intact...maybe you can make the destructro removed one work well enough to be able to move the parts truck around. Otherwise, Simon's idea sounds good too. :02:
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http://s859.photobucket.com/albums/ab153/a...0Bleed%20SetUp/
The link will take you to the pictures of the setup I used to bleed my new master cylinder.
The vinyl lines are run to below the truck into a container to catch the brake fluid.
Sequence I used:
Install all 3 bleed lines to start with. Pump the brake pedal to start the bleeding process. Check the lines to see how much fluid & air is in the line. If the line furthest from the firewall is mostly/all fluid, remove it and install the brake line. If not, pump the brake pedal some more and recheck. Repeat the pumping, checking of lines, and installing brake lines moving sequentially towards the firewall. Because the bleed lines will tend to drain out by gravity it may appear there is still air in the lines, but this process will get the majorityof the air out of the master cylinder. The rest you will have to get out with the normal brake bleeding process.
NOTE: Don't forget about not letting the reservoir run dry. Look on both sides of the reservoir because when the fluid gets low enough it starts taking it from only
one side depending on which lines are open.
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Bans B for not pinning the thread I asked him to, not attaching photos to his emails, whining about his defective product, and letting Pezzy steal his manhood.
Damn!!! OUCH!!!
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Are you trying to save the arm or not? If destructive removal is an option then drilling/cutting may relieve some of the tightness.
If destructive removal is not an option you may have to engineer yourself a better/stronger puller. Also, maybe hitting with an air hammer to set-up vibrations to help break it loose.
Oh yeah, one more idea. Big pickle fork or maybe two wedges. (Wish I was looking right at it, but I'm at work
)
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Sounds like your right about the driver's side being installed incorrectly.
X2. I had the same problem. Numnutz at the autoshop installed the passenger side one opposite. I had planned to just replace the inner tie rod ends because the outers were still good. Anyhow, ordered accordinglly, go to install....and the passenger side won't thread in because it is flipped around. I ended up replacing them all rather than returning the one and propagating the error. If IIRC the left head thread tie rods should go toward the center of the vehicle on both sides. I can double check tonight.
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I ban Pezzy for banning the one guy who thinks I'm funny! Plus she's Canadian
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Ok...i'll try to make this a short story.
Installed Borla CatBack Muffler = 0 improvement in performance. Looks pretty though. Well at least it did until I covered it in mud multiple times.
Punched and Sleeved Main Cat = Wow...that really helped. Good low end to mid power improvement from stock. Top end is definitively still limited.
Punched the small Cat before Main Cat = Hmm.....my low end isn't as good as it was.. Dang it. Definitely not mental. But it will hit 90+ mph and hold it pretty easy. Not very useful, but a fun fact to know.
Practical lesson learned = the most free flow system may not be the best or it needs to be properly designed to be most effective.
Oh yeah...one more thing. I did all the above mods with stock manifolds. Just recently installed headers and didn't seem to notice much difference.
Well at least I don't have that darn ticking noise anymore. 
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1) If you use the search function you should be able to find several good threads about fixing the manifold problems.
2) Here is thread with a how-to on replacing the manifold studs: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16196
3) Nissan Parts list for Manifold stud replacement. (Pulled this myself from another thread and had it handy.)
qty part# Name
12 14065-V5004 Stud-Manifold
12 14039-W1500 Nut
12 14037-v5005 Washer-Lock
4) If you plan on working on it yourself recommend to locate and download the factory service manual. There a threads for this to. Some links in the theads don't work anymore...be patient one eventually will.
5) Recommend an oil filter relocation kit if you install headers. Otherwise its virtually impossible to change oil filter. (I couldn't see how to do it with the headers installed). There are at least two good threads about oil filter relocation kits/installs.
6) If all goes well 6 hours might be okay. But how often does everything go well? Extracting broken manifold studs can be a real time killer.
Good luck and if you run into problems or can't find something please do make additional posts. We all like to help.
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Banning Nytrosfinder for forgetting the kitchen sink in his future plans.
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I ban B for being B. Enough said.
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Bans Terrano for a having a view better than mine.
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Yes, long extension for the y pipe bolts, and something to hold the bolt in place while you turn the nut - - or is that what a swivel is for? lol
If i remember correctly it is studs on the passenger side. So either the nut turns or the stud turns. Either way it comes out.
swivel a.k.a universal joint (had to check my self)
Here is thought about dropping the tranny. Mine is a 5 spd but maybe this applies as well for the auto. I've had my tranny out twice and didn't have any fancy jacks (used 2 standard floor jacks, though 1 did have about 5" diameter plate/dish), so to help control the way it wants to roll, I left the tranny support crossmember bolted to the tranny. This leaves you with some leverage arms when it is disconnected from the frame. Those with autos can comment on whether or not this has merit.
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how did you go about getting at the mounting bolts for the y pipe. they are pretty high, and in a tight spot.
I assume you mean on the passenger side. Long extension (17"+) & probably a swivel. PB Blaster nuts first if possible. Long extension & swivel comes in handy also for unbolting the tranny from the engine as well.
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Bans Nytro for not having a running Pathfinder to go to Uwharrie next weekend.
P.S. now at 200089
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Awesome. Glad everything went basically according to plan. Nice pics. Looks like a great place to wheel.
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Banning Morning for being in state that starts with W.
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http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry425644
The above will take you to another thread regarding oil filter relocation.
I think Koveman was refering to a local heat shield for the oil filter relocation hoses. Not something that was connected onto the headers themselves.
In my opinion i believe the hoses would melt or at least be severely damaged if they came in contact with the headers, but if there is enough air gap then the hoses should be okay. I do not know what the minimum air gap you can get away with is, but personally i would go no less than 1". If you read the thread I've given here you will see that I personally overkilled the hoses just to be sure. However, there are plenty of people that have used the hoses (some come with hoses & some don't) that are supplied with oil filter relocation kit without issue.
I was concerned about the fuel lines being kind of close to the headers so I used heat sheath from Design Engineering, Inc to add a little protection. You could do the same for the oil filter relocation lines because the sheath comes in different sizes. http://www.designengineering.com/products....m=sp&pid=37
I purchased the sheath from local auto parts store but they didn't carry all the sizes so you may have to order the larger ones if you wanted them.
Well here I've gone
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Bans Grim for relying on logic in a world of nuts.
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Why is everyone so scared of something hitting the filter up there? It's still at least a foot away from the tire. Filters are not easy to puncture either. Getting wrapped up in a ball of barbed wire might be an issue, but I think the filter could withstand that as well. The best part about that location is oil change time. Zero mess.
Two words: Murphy's Law
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ban k9 for still having the same avatar after being banned for it.
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Just a word of advice from someone who has used them for decades. Don't trust a "cheaper than 13 bucks" torque wrench. This is one area that it is not worth fooling around with. My first torque wrench, a Craftsman digital lasted almost 20 years and some of that was daily use. I had it rebuilt once when the handle slipped (digital window moves) and it recently did it again so I bought another to calibrate it with and will fix it myself. The latest was an Armstrong for $130 (which is a more simple and durable design) and the old one was $90 about 20 years ago. I fully expect not to have to buy another in my lifetime.
Get a good torque wrench and simply treat it well. It will be worth the $ and last a LONG time.
Here is the one I bought having used them at work for years, best bang for buck in my book.
https://www.armstrongtools.com/catalog/prod...jsp?groupID=914
#64-046
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And Precise tell us how you make your torque wrench last so long? Oh yeah. now I remember DON'T ever use it as a breaker bar!
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Banning Tungsten for no avatar and no signature.
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I ban Grim for the evil eye! (Backs away slowly)
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Ban Precise for excessive use of this smiley ->
Inner Tie Rod Ends
in The Garage
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Just verified that on mine the left hand threaded tie rod ends are on the inner ones. 98% sure this is the correct arrangement, because when I first ordered inner ones the one worked on the driver side.