Trainman
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Posts posted by Trainman
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vengeful was asking something similar just over a year ago. Lets see what he says
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Is runnerman based out of BC?
When I bought mine he was in Manitoba.
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Regarding towing, I was asking mostly from curiosities sake to find out if that is an option or not. I currently compete in a street tire class in autocross with the Miata, so right now it isn't any problem to just drive it to and from race days. However, there is always the temptation to some day throw a supercharger and some giant race slicks on it and try to compete with the fast cars, which would make towing it sound easier then trying to cary slicks, tools, and gear all inside the little Miata. So while I wouldn't mind some towing capacity it is probably the least influential of the factors when deciding what I want.
There is a fellow on another board I frequent who also races a smaller sports car, in his case a Honda S2000. He installed a trailer hitch on the S and trailers his race tires/parts etc. on a little utility trailer. Seems to work well for him.
2001 Pathys are listed here for around $11,000 CDN. I could see going price for well under $10,000. Something to think about as the VQ engine is a beauty.
But note that the manual only has a towing capacity of 3,500 lbs vs 5,000 for the AT. This applies to both the VQ and older motors. Good luck.
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She was at the dealer today, this is what they found:
The cam actuators are working fine and they were able to isolate the noise to the rear of the right head. They now believe that the a lifter has collapsed. So it needs to go back as they need more time plus some parts. That will be next week sometime. I will provide another update then.
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Why weld? Just do this, so much easier:
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Sounds like the ignition tumbler is worn out (thinks the key is still in). I have had that same issue with other vehicles, notably if they are high mileage.
Try wiggling the key as you withdraw it and see it that cures the problem. If so, you may want to budget for a new ignition lock set.
I can not think of anything else, maybe one of the gurus can.
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ugh, I can only hope that it is not a manifold issue. I thought that I read here that there was a manifold issue even with the 3.5's. ....
Keep us updated!
Ha, it wish was the manifold, way easier to fix than trying to get at the cam shaft sprockets. We have already ruled that out, so its down to the cam timing or valve adjustment.
And for sure I will keep you up-to-date.
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Oh fun! First, good thing you are changing the oil on a regular interval. 5000k is about perfect. Do you know how much oil you are putting in? IIRC, it should be around 5 1/4 quarts. I would double check the oil level first. Second, I would try an listen to where the noise is coming from. I have replaced both the cam sensors before as well as the timing solenoids, so a part not working is not out of the question. There is a TSB about double checking the oil level, and verifiying proper oil pressure. A engine flush might help loosen up things if there is something sticking or gummed up. What I have found more than anything, is people taking thier vehicle to quick lube places and having the wrong amount of oil put in the vehicle. Do some poking around and let us know what you find.
Oh, and if the solenoids need replacing, its actually pretty easy. 3 bolts and 1 connector and they are right on top of the engine.
The servicing is done at a local shop, no quick lubes in my small town
Oil level and pressure where the first things looked at, all is OK. It has never burnt a drop. And just to clarify, the oil and filter are replaced every 5,000 kilometers or about every 3,100 miles.Sound is coming from the right side of the motor, more noticeable towards the rear.
There has been a history of the valve timing sensors doing weird things in this truck and the dealer did a flush a couple of years ago (long before the ticking noise started).
As for replacing the solenoids, the dealer said it would take about 1 hr to remove and bench test both and re-install/replace, so not too bad. I sure hope that is all it is. And I will get an oil flush done at the same time I think.
Interesting thought about heavier weight oil, will talk to the dealer about that. This may be an unexpected side effect of going to full syn?
Thanks for the input, I will update on Tuesday after the dealer looks at it.
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No sounds, no lights, no dancing beavers, just plug it in and go. The only thing you will notice is that when it gets to about -10 or less, the truck will start easier than if you left the block heater unplugged. If you see a little flash when you plug the extension cord into the wall, then you know its getting juice.
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So my motor has developed a tick that has been getting worse, the dealer suggested running that valve lifter cleaner stuff for a couple of oil changes but it is still getting worse. Then on the weekend, it threw 2 codes, one an O2 sensor and the other a cam positioning sensor.
Dealer is suggesting the following: Check both the sensors to make sure they are working, replace if required (they are some sort of solenoid that activates the cam adjusters). About 1 hour labour plus parts.
If they are OK, then it is a big front end job to inspect, clean and replace if required (at $400 each) the actual cam adjusters. They estimate almost 16 hours to do this as it is essentially the same as replacing the timing chain. So worse case it will be pushing $3,000 with taxes and parts.
Has anybody had any kind of experience themselves with this? They mention that as these parts are all hydraulically activated, that they can get "gunky" but I have been using full syn oil for the last 40,000 km and since I bought the beast, with 60,000 km (it now has 143,000 km) the oil has been changed every 5,000 km, dino or syn.
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Andrew wins the cookie. It's a server load saving setup where the forum topic views only update once every 10 minutes or so IIRC.
But there are topics from yesterday (older than 10 minutes) that ares till showing 0 views.
I am going crazy trying to figure this out.........totally crazy........an evil plan of Pezzies me thinks
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it's been that way for a ling while.
The only ones I can find go back a whole day (to yesterday). Maybe that's what's meant by a ling while
Anyway, it not months from what I can see. Or is there some magic view number then all is right with the world again?
Like I said, just one of those days
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On the main page of each section, there are headings, like Title, Replies and Views. There are now two topics on the Off-Topic section (Ohhhhhh k9... and Website design ) with replies but no views. Some sort of glitch I suppose?
I guess its that kind of a day........
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Its listed on the BC Fishing Resort & Outfitters Association web site as well as coming up in a variety of tourist BC/Thompson/Nicola tourist sites.
May want to check that this is correct?: Circle W Hi Hium listing
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For me, the Pathy is more than just a daily driver. It is my work truck for my forestry consulting business.
My wife drives the van as her daily driver and that is what we use for longer trips.
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I think the site looks OK as is (maybe the font size could be bigger and better use of the sides but thats about it). It loads fast, all the links I looked at work, everything is pretty clear. I have seen much worse.
I would try approaching the web site designer and see what it would take to get a better result listing on Google. And do not forget the tourist associations that are supposed to help. What are they doing for your parents?
And that part of BC is very nice, best of luck to your folks on keeping that going.
Edit, did a bit of a search, seems there are 2 Hi Hium resorts. That may be a bit of the issue. Wonder how many reservations the the other one gets that maybe should have been yours? That will be a tougher one to deal with.
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North Shore Off Road in North Vancouver had been advertising a Pathfinder bumper a while back, may be worth giving them a call.
North Shore Off-Road
Phone: (604) 988-7677 Fax: (604) 988-3366 Toll Free: 1-866-507-5674
Email: info@nsor.com
1440 Columbia St.
North Vancouver, B.C.
V7J 1A2
Monday - Friday: 8:30 AM - 5:30 PM
Saturday: 9:00 AM - 4:30 PM
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Glad you are OK and the Pathy will be good as new in week or so.
Only 40 klicks? Not fast enough to deploy the air bag me thinks. I understand that it is a combination of your speed and de-acceleration rate that triggers the airbag. But to be safe, get it checked out, especially after a collision like that.
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I have been using full syn for over a year, no issues. No leaks, no oil usage. Motor has 140,000 km now.
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It's minus 16 degrees celcius here today.....-25 with the wind chill. No issues starting. Tranny was a little slow and hard shifting, as I'm sure the ATF was like molasses. I've started the truck in -30 weather with no issues.
Plus 11 here today, and no issues
Like Simon, I have started mine up in -30+ without any problems. I use the block heater when it is -10 or less if a plug is available but that is not always the case when traveling. Note that windchill has no effect on motors, only skin
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I picked "other" but I do not use it as I can not get to it easily:
Because I keep all this in the back (my work stuff although the fire backback is only there in fire season):
The side cubby gets used for a windup radio/flashlight, plus a couple of other small items.
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Some of the really old chevy V6s were slow sure. The vortec V6 is prety nice though. My Jimmy is nice and torquey, even more so than my pathy in lower rpm range. The pathy has a higher HP rating and a slightly higher torque but it certainly comes in at a higher rpm. Don't get me wrong, the pathy is a great truck, but to anyone who still thinks Chevy V6s are anchors, maybe hasn't had a chance to drive a newer vortec V6.
Don't the new pathys have V8s? I am not saying American cars are better or worse, but it sounds like you had some bad experiences er something.
to original poster: I too thought it would be cool to get a 5 speed when I was shopping for a pathy. Coupla things got me into an automatic: Very hard to find a manual SE (I didn't want a Chilkoot personally), I have never seen an LE (which I wanted for the side impact airbags) with a manual trans, and a manual trans de-rates the towing capacity.
Something to consider if you plan to take the family camping with a camper trailer or tow a boat etc.
Yup, the latest Pathy can be had with a V8.
And the R50 LE, at least with the 3.5, was never available with the 5 speed (at least in Canada), so that is why you never saw one.
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Well, first thing to realize is that the FP7 and the S2 are years (maybe decades?) apart.
That being said however, I love my Atlas FP7's. They are good runners, quite but are a bit light so do not pull that well. That can be fixed by adding some extra weight.
The front windows need a bit of work to look right, but at least its just making them bigger/getting the shape right.
When the FP's and the GP 38, GP 40 and SD 24 and SD35 where on the market, lots of people where taking the drives out of them and putting them under others shells, like Athearn. That’s how good they were in the 70's.
Of course, the InterMountain FP is supposed to be quite a bit better but I am not complaining.
A post into another forum that doe snot have a spell check that works with Firefox, so I compose somewhere else and paste.
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Not when you get mud and crap built up inside the drum. I wanna go to discs soon just for the performance.. And they're easier to service, they clean out easier etc..
The loggers and their mechanics that I deal with just hate the rear discs that have been standard on the Ford, GM and Dodge P/U's they are running these last few years. Issues include:
Poor self-cleaning ability for mud, snow, dirt;
Siezing of the calipers;
Poor performance of the parking brake;
More expensive to repair;
Generally poor reliability in the sever service they are used in.
There is a reason that the bigger rigs have not gone to disc brakes when used off paved roads, they do not hold up. I am quite happy with my rear drums, they have given me no problems and I have no stopping issues. Our Mystique had rear discs and they were much more problems with them than the fronts, including sized calipers, parking brake not working, pads getting destroyed, etc. They had to be serviced twice as much as the fronts but in theory only are responsible for around 25% or less of the braking power in a vehicle.
What skid plate you recommend?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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Shipping for mine was reasonable, compared to having them shipped from the states anyway