Trainman

Wow! That is some wild thread over there. As Pezzy says, glad this board is the way it is. PS: great pictures of Pathys in action, there should be a link on their board to this.

That's a great idea, thanks for sharing Pezzy.

Cool Pezzy!

Thanks Pezzy, Have you had any problems with accidental activation of the buttons (like by being inside a pocket)? This is my biggest concern regarding this unit vs the GPSMap 76 that has the button above the screen. Also a lot more accessories for the 60 than the 76 (like a suction mount and a case). I am leaning towards the 60 for sure right now. Yep, too bad about the rebate :sniff: I snooze, I lose!

Well, you have TWO chainsaws

mws: Good info, that is what I am looking for, thanks. TrailChaser, in Canada, we can get very good prices at GPS Central. Their Canadian prices are about the same as the US MSRP. Here is a link to their web site. Some excellent info here on all makes. Another good source of info is here Hopefully we will get some more feedback. I like my Garmin eTrex Legend, it just does not have the right kind of antenna for the work I do (patch vs quad helix). Also, if you plan on uploading any of the extra maps, then a colour display would be best (I use the Garmin Canadian topographic maps and the line work in grey scale can be very confusing).

Anyone have experience, good or bad, with any brand/model of handheld GPS units? I need to upgrade from a Garmin eTrex Legend to a unit with a better antenna. Am leaning towards the Garmin GPSMap 60C or GPSMap 76C (with colour screens to better view the Canadian topo maps I have for Garmins). Some issues others have brought up: Button placement: top vs bottom Colour display not readable in bright light Colour display using batteries up more quickly (according to Garmin and independent reviews these last two are not a problem) Reception ????? Thanks, Will

Well, here is an update as to what I ended up doing. Thanks for all the helpful input. Looked at the net, it would be over $300 landed in Canada, so I looked for other options. Found a decent steel divider meant for pets (from Canadian Tire for $99). Here it is after the initial install: Realized that the lower feet could kick out easily so added a floor with holes that the feet go into (the 2x2 is for the piss can I need to carry during fire season): And here it is with all the stuff I need to carry:

Even the newer ones are bad for turning, our Sienna which is wider and longer than the Pathy has a way better turning radius. But the Pathy is much better than the full size 3/4 ton pickups I have used in the past.

Al, The only thing I would add is a good wool blanket, in case you need to spend the night in the truck (especially in BC) or need to deal with some one in shock. I am not sure you need the chainsaw :confused: , a good axe and ropes/chains to pull with should work (not nuts about carrying fuel inside the passenger area of any vehicle, ok if its on the roof or out back). You are very well equipped, even I do not carry that much with me and I work in the bush. May want to re-think some of the other items but if you have the room, go for it. Good to see you have a map and a compass . Make sure you know how to use them. GPS is great until the batteries die or the satellites are not clear enough (common under dense tree canopy). I use GPS for my work but rely on my compass and a good map (and air photos if you can get them). Will

Have the same problem. Dealer says there is no ground at the master switch on the drivers door (all the windows ground through the master switch apparently on the 02's, not sure about older models). Have been told I need a new master switch at $220 cdn.

Try this: Link :type: Hope this is what you are looking for. :Magic:

Thanks RedPath88, thats a great link. I have not yet done the sensor (the SES light went out) so I will check these guys out, can't see why they would not send to Canada. Our money is as good as anyones (just need more of it )

Just an update. I had to take the beast to the dealer to get the right rear window fixed (it was stuck in the down position, needs a new drivers side switch unit) so had them do the ECM upgrade as well. I noticed a significant change on a long, steep hill coming home. I use the cruise and have the transmission out of OD for the accent of the hill. Before the upgrade, the truck would almost seem to pause at several points going up the hill, almost like the gas was being let off. This did not happen today. I will monitor any other changes, especially fuel consumption, and let you know. Thanks for everyone’s input.

Yes to Pezzy's idea too.

Great changes to the board, well done!

Passed a four door Rover with 3, count em, 3 brand new jerry cans on the roof! (only 120 km between gas stations here) and not a bit of dirt anywhere on it. Not sure if the extra gas is an indication of its gas usage or if the driver just thought it would be cool to try and look like he was in Africa.

Just wanted to say this is a good idea and well done to our new administrator for working so quickly.

The inter-lock is a safety device that does not allow the vehicle to be started unless the clutch is depressed or on auots, does not allow the gear selector to be moved out of park unless the brake is applied. On the autos, there is usually a bypass that requires some sort of tool to activate, like a flat bladed screw driver. Don't know of any way to get around it on the manual trannies. So it is not a driver selectable switch like that for headlamps. Hope this helps (or did I get the wrong inter-lock? ).

Ale, For future when you get the new tranny in: I live in Merritt at 600m elevation. It is a climb to 1,200 (Vancouver), 1,400 (Kamloops) or 1,700m (Kelowna) to get out of here. My mechanic says the biggest problem they see with vehicles coming from the coast is, you guessed it, auto transmission failures, even on nearly new vehicles. Reason? People put them in Drive and well, just drive. Most newer trannies are overdrive in Drive and letting the computer try to figure out when to downshift on hills like the Snowshed or Brenda Mines (out of Kelowna) just means lots of burnt-out transmissions. On steep hills, take it out of overdrive. My '02 has an easy to use button on the side of the shifter that I use a lot around here.

Here, here. I have not been around this board too long but from what I have seen/read, this is an excellent choice. Keep up the good work.

Runnerman, I don't think that will work for BigBikeMike if he wants to keep the anti-wobble feature. The best bet is as 88 says, drill a new hole as far back as it can be in the hitch itself but as Runnerman points out, watch out for the spare tire. Looks like a great rack, you may just have to put up with the way it sticks out because of how our spares are set up underneath.

I have an 02, so it should be the same. Under the back seats is the jack and other stuff, just flip both seats forward to get to them (mine is also under a rubber mat). Open the rear hatch, just to the left of center and below the rubber weather strip is a small oblong opening that the long rod that was under the seat slips into. Slide it in (at an angle so it goes for the center of the rear floor), then add the crank handel onto the end and start cranking. The tire is held up by a chain and a bar that slips through the center of the wheel. Let the tire all the way down, wiggle the bar out, slide the tire out. You will need to remove the long bar to use the jack. Just revesre the process to get the tire back up under the truck when it is fixed. It will guide itself back in, so it does not have to be exactly centerd under the truck. It took me longer to type this than it take sto do, it is relay quite simple once you figure out where everything goes. Hope this helps. If you need pictures, let me know. Oh, and no question is stupid.

Thanks Trialsin26. In Canada, the cost to a shop just for the O2 sensor is about $220!, so the dealer can actualy do it cheaper than an outside shop as they charge about $220 including labour.

I agree, lets see more of the hitch. Is that brass button that you are pointing at supposed to be pushed down so the bar will slide in farther? Not sure how this is supposed to work but it does stick out quite a way. I would be tempted to just cut the bar back and drill a new hole in the bar that lines up with one of the holes in the hitch (my hitch has two holes for the pins, maybe yours does not?). Depends what that big nut is for! Or go back to the place you bought it from and see if they have any ideas, it looks pretty new.