XPLORx4

The 2620 is a nice unit, but pretty spendy. I would recommend playing with one first before buying. What is your intended use?

For several years I've been using a Garmin GPS V receiver with very satisfactory results. Around Christmas time last year, I decided to splurge and get a full-blown Windows Mobile PDA and a bluetooth Garmin GPS10. While it far surpasses the capabilities of my old GPS V, it was also 3 times more expensive. Using a laptop-based GPS system in the car isn't the most convenient way to track your position. Not only does it take up a lot of room, it's not easily mountable where you don't have to take your eyes off the road. Plus, to deter theft, what do you do with your laptop when you park your car?

IndianRider- if your truck rocks and wobbles, the likely cause is worn bushings on the rear lower control arms. Have you ever replaced them?

No hi-lift? :o What will you use if you get a flat while on the trail? (I hope you weren't counting on the bottle jack!)

The Weapon-R "Dragon" SRI (warm-air) replaces the factory intake tube, but still uses the factory MAF. The other vendors do not. http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-24802.cfm (The item pictured does not show the actual product for the Pathfinder.)

What exactly are you asking? Doesn't your truck already have a mast antenna mounted on the passenger front fender? If you need to replace your windshield, you can specify to the auto glass replacement company that you have the built-in diversity antenna.

Clunking is not related to wheel bearings. Clunking could be due to any of the following: • Worn swaybar end-links • Worn swaybar bushings (located where the swaybar passes through the frame) • Worn ball joints • Worn inner tie-rod socket (located inside the rubber boot on each side of the steering rack) • Worn strut bearing Based on your description, the most likely cause is worn strut bearings. Here's what a worn strut bearing looks like. It's supposed to be smooth and have a white grease on the surfaces, not be dried out and scored like in this photo: Here's where the bearing installs: If you've never replaced the struts (or the strut bearings) then this may be your problem. The good news is that worn strut bearings only make a lot of noise. They won't cause your suspension to fall off or anything.

Click the "More Info Here" link in my post above. It should point you to an online Nissan parts vendor. Some of the part descriptions include drawings like the one above. Without knowing the condition of the bearing races, it's hard to know whether you need only the bearings or the hub as well. I would get another mechanic's opinion about the problem... ask someone who doesn't think that you need special machinery to remove the hub. The noise you speak of- is it a constant humming noise that comes from the front wheels while you drive, or is it a clunking that occurs only occasionally?

Your tires didn't do anything bad to your hubs. However, if you've never serviced them (i.e. repacked them), depending on how many miles are on your truck and if you've driven through deep mud/water frequently, the hubs could just be dead due to lack of maintenance. You don't need any special machines to replace the wheel bearings. Depending on the condition of the bearing races, you should just be able to replace the bearings themselves. Contact local auto parts stores or your dealer for pricing on new bearings. FYI- The entire hub runs about $200 per side, and includes new bearings and inner bearing grease seal. The hub that you purchase actually includes parts #1, #2, and #3 in this diagram: #1- The hub #2- The bearings #3- The inner grease seal. More info here This link shows some photos of the hub replacement procedure, after the outer hub has been removed. I had to do this because the bolt holes for the outer hub were broken off inside the hub.

IIRC, the ATF coler was discontinued as a factory-installed item on 99+.

The photo in the first post shows the ATF cooler. It provides supplemental cooling in addition to the ATF cooler that's inside the bottom of the radiator.

If you have a JWT Pop Charger, it is CARB-approved. There is a CARB E.O. sticker you can get for free from JWT, and you should stick it to the underside of your hood, near the emissions vacuum line diagram, or anyplace it will be obvious to a SMOG technician. Just contact JWT to get it. *CARB=California Air Resources Board

The only thing that you might get grief from is your limo tint. In CA, you can't legally have any tint on the windshield or front windows. You might not get caught right away, as there are lots of cars with illegal tint out here, but if you happen to get pulled over for anything, your tint will likely earn you an extra fix-it citation. The rest seems fine, although be cautious about what you leave plainly visible (i.e. laptop) in the car if you don't want it stolen.

Follow the homelink instructions for programming the button (i.e. hold down your regular remote button and the homelink button together, etc.) Then, go to your garage-door opener motor, and press the "learn" button (usually behind one of the light covers) which tells the opener it's ready to learn a new remote signal. Go to your vehicle and press the homelink button you just programmed until you see the garage door opener operate.

Gotcha, except there are no aftermarket A-arms available for the R50. The front suspension is totally different than the WD21.

The R50 Pathfinder only has 2 ball joints - one on the left lower A-arm and one on the right lower A-arm. To tell if the ball joint is worn, raise the front wheels off the ground and shake the wheel in and out. If you feel clunking or see any slight movement in the lower ball joint, it should be replaced. It is true that the only adjustable axis of alignment is toe. Even with aftermarket kits, only camber can be adjusted. Caster is non-adjustable. If you "slammed my car pretty hard and had to replace the Kframe in the front" then poor caster could also be due to a bent A-arm. 98silverpathy- are the bolts holding the steering knuckle to the strut the correct diameter? Are the bolts tight? The steering knuckle is only held secured by the ball joint and the strut bolts. The only way the whole assembly could be moving is due to a worn ball joint or elongated bolt-holes or bolts with a smaller diameter.

His 6" lift is the AC 2" lift + System-F (Keith's) lift, which Tmorgan is trying to mass-produce.

You mean stones and pebbles. The factory step rails cannot and will not support the weight of your truck. However, if the kind of wheeling you do doesn't involve boulders then you might be OK. Why are you installing dual lockers? What kind of terrain do you drive on that requires them?

If you're gonna get serious about wheeling (as evidenced by your plan to install dual lockers), ditch your factory running boards and put on a set of rock sliders.

If you do weld the front diff, be aware that if you lift a rear wheel (and you don't have an engaged ARB locker back there), the only wheel attempting to move your truck will be the front one that's locked in. You may very well risk exceeding the strength of the CV axles or hubs, and *BOOM* :eek:

If you weld the front diff, you'll definitely need manual hubs for highway use. And for off-road use, you will need to unlock one of the hubs every time you try to turn the truck sharply, since the locked front axle will try to force the truck to drive in a straight line. Give it a try and let us know how it goes!

The fuel filter is located on the chassis, directly above the rear axle differential. It's a pain because even if you remove the fuel pump fuse to depressurize the fuel lines, you still get gasoline all over yourself.

FWIW, I have a 1750psi electric pressure washer (from Home Depot), and I've used it many times to clean my engine bay. I first cover my open-element intake with a plastic grocery bag, then spray a "Degreaser/Cleaner" solution that I bought at Costco on the dirtiest parts, let it soak for about a minute, then spray the engine with the pressure washer. It works great. Note, however, that I use the "wide-angle" setting on the nozzle, and hold the wand about 18" from any vehicle parts. Afterward, I drive for a few minutes to heat up the engine and dry out the engine bay.

Including the swing-out spare tire carrier and added light-gauge steel plate added as shown below, I'm definitely in! (But I would want to see at least one pic of the carrier and how it's mounted to the bumper first.)

Must have been someone else's misinformation you read. Fuel tank capacity is 21.1 gallons. Period. http://www.google.com/search?q=pathfinder+...=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8