XPLORx4

Hey, are there any updates on this?

If it has the lever, it's not AWD. It's part-time 4WD, which means you shouldn't use it except on ice, snow, mud, dirt, sand-- basically any non-paved surface. The vibration you feel could be an out-of-balance front driveshaft or if the truck is lifted, vibration caused by excessive CV shaft angles. Both conditions are not necessarily bad.

Do you mean like this:

Increasing the track by installing wheels and tires that stick out from the body will help to offset the higher center of gravity created by a suspension lift. If you lift the truck 2", but increase the track by 3", that may actually help INCREASE the rollover angle.

On your stock intake, locate the two hoses that attach to it. Those same two hoses attach to the Weapon R intake. The order in which they attach makes no difference.

Also, 265/75R16 are narrower than 32x11.50R15 tires.

If that's your Pathy in your avatar, that's an XE, not an LE. LE's were the "lux" models, with leather, wood grain, chrome bling, etc. If your Pathy has the wheels shown in your avatar pic, then the biggest tire that will safely fit without rubbing is 30x9.5R15. To fit a 30x10.50R15 (the largest that will fit and not rub on stock suspension) you'd have to get new 15x7 or 15x8 wheels.

Flowmaster Delta 50-series.

Yes, just don't drive through mud, dirt, or water while doing so. The outer bearing is exposed to the elements, but a quick spin around the block shouldn't hurt. If you're lucky you may find the problem after removing the hub, so you might not need to drive around the block at all.

Going up a curb makes you feel like you're going to tip over? Wow. Read this link Even this (which feels scary!) still doesn't exceed the limit:

Yes, ask the shop to install a new "quiet" performance muffler and bend some exhaust tube for you. Some models of performance mufflers are louder than others. Be sure they choose a correctly-sized muffler. If a duel-inlet single-outlet model isn't available, ask them how they would combine the two inlets into one and whether their strategy would result in exhaust restrictions and why/why not. Then, just make sure they route the tailpipe so it exits in the same location as stock (or to your preference). It should pass inspections no problem, provided that the tailpipe ends near the edge of the body, not under the chassis somewhere.

That's because the Pathfinder has two mufflers- the main muffler (under the rear passenger seat) and the exhaust "resonator" behind the rear axle. The "resonator" (which I believe is the section you're referring to) doesn't do as much sound muffling as the main muffler. If you would like a performance cat-back system, get a quote for a cat-back Flowmaster 50-series or Magnaflow muffler from a local independently-owed reputable muffler shop. I had a Flowmaster cat-back installed (actually just replaced the original muffler and exhaust pipe behind it) for about $300.

That's not necessarily true. Installing hubs on the Pathfinder does not require removal of the wheel bearings. Also, if only one hub is locked and the transfer case is not in 4WD, then the locked-hub wheel will cause only one of the CV axles to rotate, which in turn rotates one side gear in the differential, which in turn causes the other side gear and CV axle to rotate in the opposite direction. Unlike the ring gear, the gears in the differential case weren't meant to spin constantly. The constant "differential" action can cause the diff to get too hot, spin bearings, etc. This is bad. If the hub was partially engaged, it may have damaged the hub internals. Hopefully this is all that happened.

I would remove that hub completely, all the way down to the studs: Make sure the other hub is unlocked also, then try to rotate the front driveshaft by hand, checking to see if it binds as you rotate it. Do the same thing to the left-side CV axle. Finally, drive around the block to see if the sound remains. If the sound is gone, it was the hub you removed, which you should check for damage. If the sound remains, further diagnosis is required.

OK, your updated description points towards either: 1) poorly connected ground cable 2) 100A "BATTERY" fuse is blown. 3) :confused:

Definitely the ignition switch.

Those little mirrors are required by law on trucks/SUVs in Japan.

Nice headlamps!

You may be onto something with the ignition switch. If the ignition switch is bad, then it would definitely result in the behavior you described. (A bad ignition switch will act like the key is off, no matter what position it's in.) If your headlights and/or dome lights still work, then it's definitely the ignition switch.

Read, read, read, then take baby steps as you familiarize yourself with your truck's capabilities. Look under the truck and get to know where its vital (and vulnerable) parts are. Make sure your vehicle is well-prepared and well-maintained. Don't go wheeling by yourself, especially while you're still a newb. Get yourself some self-recovery equipment. A thick tow-strap and a pair of D-ring shackles are minimum requirements. Learn when to use 4HI and 4LO. Don't go through water too fast. Don't spin the wheels if you've lost traction. You'll just dig yourself deeper. Pick a different driving line over the obstacle. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9518 http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/ http://trucks.about.com/od/4wdtips/ http://www.bb4wa.com/articles/articles.htm http://www.offroadexperience.com/offroadguide1.htm

For the lift, all you really need are new front and rear coil springs. Here's the first 2" coil spring lift I put on my Pathfinder (This was done 2 years before AC's lift was available.) You should know that there are side-effects of installing the lift. One side-effect is called "topping out" the strut. It can be a little disconcerting, since it makes a very lound thunk when the strut reaches maximum extension. Maximum extension is reached more frequently with the 2" lift than stock. Another side-effect is that the front CV axles will be at more extreme angles, which could cause premature wear of the CV boots. Installation of Warn premium manual hubs (p/n 29091) addresses this issue. Finally, of course, your center of gravity will be dffferent, so the truck will handle differently.

How do you intend to use your Pathy? What I mean is, are your mods going to be primarily for appearance, for light off-roading, rock-crawling, mudding, deep back-country exploration? How you build up your truck depends highly on the type of off-roading you intend to do. That being said, a lift and skidplates are good starts.

You forgot 2 critical parts: new inner bearing grease seals.

What kind of tires do you have, and what condition are they in? Is the tread feathered? They may be creating a harmonic frequency that causes some other part to vibrate. Try rotating your tires to see if there's any effect (good or bad).

Yup, oil filter is hiding above the splash guard, nearly directly above the steering rack. And before you pull it off, be sure to drape some rags over the power steering unit, as oil will drip all over it. This is very bad for the steering rack's rubber mount. To minimize the mess, you can place a ziplock sandwich bag over the filter as you unscrew it. The bag will catch and contain the oil as you remove the filter. This is the strategy I use all the time.