XPLORx4

No, you're wrong. OMG, I can't believe all of the misinformation in this thread! All of them are CARS because they have IFS.

You know, speaking of extra weight from bumpers and armor, I was browsing Edmunds yesterday to review the Pathy specs, and read that the cargo capacity of the R50 is only 996 lbs! That's pretty low! I'm sure I've exceeded that limit many times, especially since I'm always carrying around over 200 lbs of armor and other mods!

Geez, guys, for Pete's sake! Everyone knows an R50 isn't a minivan, it's a station wagon!. Get with the program already!

Let's set it up! How about Fall 2009, southwest Colorado? It's only 28 hours from you! Let's call it The first annual "R50 Roundup".

That circled thing in the pic isn't the compass, it's the sunload sensor for the auto climate control. The compass is built-in to the overhead console display unit.

If the cooling fan can be disabled for water crossings, then it's a good idea. Otherwise, it's a bad idea. You don't want that fan to be running when you hit water. It will tear into your cooler.

By "stock tranny cooler" you mean the one that's built-in to the bottom tank of the radiator, right? If your Pathy is already equipped with an external AT cooler, the new one should REPLACE it.

So just add some more to replace what drains out.

Unless you're rebuilding the CV axle, you shouldn't need to apply grease anywhere on it. The CV joints should already be greased and sealed by CV boots. Why are you replacing the CV axles? Are the boots torn?

98silverpathy- Do you still have the original cams somewhere? If so, I'd be interested in them. They can be reground cheaper than new JWT cams.

Great for mounting lights or knocking shopping carts out of the way. That's about it, except that model doesn't look like it has light-mounting tabs. Since it mounts at the bottom only, it will bend into your bumper and grille easily with a hard hit. Don't expect it to provide any kind of decent collision protection.

I think he meant that there was not much difference on highway handling without the rear (replying the previous poster), not how much more articulation he got off-road...

These links might be helpful: http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...6&Number=116825 http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...6&Number=265647 http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...6&Number=278931

You need an air compressor with about 90psi and one of those little tapered "blow nozzles" to blast those granules out: A can of compressed air (the stuff for computers) won't do the trick. And for getting those hoses broken loose, you don't need to cut them. Use a pair of pliers to grip the hose and twist it. Or, you can insert a small hook or flathead screwdriver between the hose and the metal to help release it.

On the R50, it's both. The stock shocks limit travel before the swaybar maxxes out. With longer shocks, the swaybar then becomes the limiting factor.

For more flex, get RS99010 shocks, which are a little longer than the RS99116 that are typically used. You will get additional flex by removing the rear anti-sway bar.

Those are .rar files. You'll need a program like winrar or another .rar extraction program. And yes, those are the FSM's

Too bad you already bought a new valve. You could have just unscrewed its two halves and gotten out the granules that way. That other little valve can just be shaken out if it's got carbon granules in it. You shouldn't need to replace it. The EVAP canister is located behind the left rear wheel, tucked up under the bumper. There are rubber connection tubes between the hard metal EVAP lines at the canister, above the fuel filter, in the left front wheel well, and in the engine compartment by that other little valve. You'll have to remove all of them in order to blow the EVAP lines out one section at a time. It'll make a big mess everywhere.

For the price your gonna pay for all those parts plus painting, you might as well have a custom fabricator build you a one-off TJM-look-alike winch bumper. (Certainly going to be much cheaper in the long run than having higher car payments again).

The remote control module for the RS9000X shocks uses an air compressor to adjust the position of the valve that is normally controlled by the knob. At no time does oil ever leave the shock body, so there's no oil in the air lines. A friend of mine has the remote module, but he hardly ever adjusts the shocks on the fly. I've been totally unphased by having to adjust my shocks manually, since I only do so when I'm stopped.

Ignore the knock sensor until you're doing some kind of work that requires the intake manifold to be removed anyway. A KS DTC does not trip the MIL, and its proper operation is not required to pass CA emissions. I've had a KS DTC for at least 2 years, and my CA SMOG test passed last September with this error.

#1 Just how reliable is this "all mode 4wd system". All-mode just provides an AWD mode that is street-friendly. It still has the ability to lock in 4HI and 4LO. Unfortunately, I don't have first-hand experience with its reliability, but I have not heard of very many (if any) problems with it on any of the various Pathfinder message boards. The only "strange behavior" I've heard is that the vehicle may lurch forward after parked and shut off. It's something to do with the pump and/or clutches disengaging, and is normal. #2 Is there anyway I can tell from the VIN if my vehicle has the limited slip? Dealer would be able to look it up. #3 I haven't bought it yet, just left a deposit pending the dealer looking at 1 problem, a bad vibration in 4WH when you hit 40mph. Has anyone experienced this and what can it be? This is caused by #4. 4HI locks the front and rear driveshafts together, forcing them to rotate at the same speed. Mismatched tires on the front and rear axles result in drivetrain binding and tire scrubbing. 4HI or 4LO should not be used on the street. If you're concerned about this issue, have the dealer swap one rear tire for one front tire, so that both axles have the same tires mounted: FL: Tire type A FR: Tire type B RL: Tire type A RR: Tire type B #4 PO has mismatched tires on the front and back. The front is a much more aggressive tread compared to the back, would you recommend I match up the tires asap? Absolutely. See previous answer. #5 Other than the precat issue I have heard of, are there any other problems that you guys have experienced? I've heard of O2 sensors needing replacement somewhat often. Also check for any service bulletins that apply to emissions equipment on this model. There's an ECU reflash that changes the sensitivity of the rear O2 sensors so that they tolerate a wider range of 3-way catalyst efficiency.

Here are some others: nissanparts.cc www.everythingnissan.com www.allnissanparts.net (goes to the same place as nissanparts.org)

It got snatched up quick!

Here's the backside of the coin tray in the lower left dash area (97 Pathfinder):