Mookie

Very, very nice Ryan!

Now who would bring this back up after 4 months? ;-) Shows you how much I'm on these days. heheheheh. It was a great time - glad the board has the current staff that do such a great job. I was on Mr Jims very first forum. Was that in 2000-2001? Or as early as 1999? I don't know if anyone else on that board is still here? '88 and Simon? It's great to see it today. The first forum was just a message list.

Such sad news. My thoughts to Jared's family and friends.

Popping usually means what Grim posted. Should be a picture, circle and arrows if ircc (if you can find the post)

Good to hear!

Hello, Yup, that conversion has been done by quite a few. I'm almost certain there is a write up on this site. Do a search and hopefully that will shed some info for you. I used an 1157 socket (replaced the stock one) and used a dremel to make the socket fit. There is a much easier way to do this - and the write up iirc is the way to do it.

That's what happened to mine also. Died, was able to start for 1 second and then nothing. But I was able to grab the c.a. sensor code.

While you are at it, take good pics of the front end geometry. Death wobble usually comes from the front end. What is the castor set at? Some closer pics of the drag link and tierod in relation to each other would help also.

Chevy 63's on a Pathy - gives you an idea for your HB.

It does sound like the 02 sensor. Surging or misfire under load, against headwinds, especially after the engine is up to temp. I don't think you can clean them, but you can test the voltage I believe. I think...someone might chime in about this.

....aaaaaand back to our topic please... :-)

That's my take too. One can get caught up in the numbers of it all. Focusing on a set price, set budget. But...with a custom project like this, there are a 1000 things that will come up that will nickel and dime you to death. Even just buying small tools/sockets/supplies that you don't have (like the big ass socket/wrenches to get the nut off the upper ball joint) all add up in the long run. Adapters for your brake lines, maybe the drive shaft angles aren't working out, so now you have to cut and rotate your ears on your front diff to get the pinion angles correct. Lots of unknowns. Lot's of details that you can't really put a price on until you get the project to a point of testing. Then after everything is all said and done, there is usually a year or two or three or four of debugging/improvements that are done once you start to wheel it . Of course it's all subjective so one can build and leave it alone and wheel without ever doing another thing to the truck. Another thing to keep in mind. The more your rig is modified, the more maintenance and attention to details of it will always be needed. So there is a time investment that always seems to be lurking around. Of course, an R50 project like this is something I think most of us look forward to watching the build up. Something new, something not run of the mill. Just giving a heads up on some stuff that sometimes doesn't get thought about. Good luck!!

Leafs up front and coils in the rear is done quite a bit with Sas'd rigs. I mainly see it on the domestics, but there has been a Pathy or two with leafs up front and coils in the rear.

Yah, all good! Just messing around there...having a little fun. Where is my build info...on the board somewhere? I will have to check. Some info in my sig Balmer.

Yeah, leaf springs suck for flex and even worse, your rig is less capable than stock! Yeah sure, the front end is now stronger than the stock ifs, but really, who ya foolin' with that Dana Corp crap. Those dudes that go to Moab with leaf sprung trucks probably get laughed at.

Don't rule out the crank angle sensor. It usually goes when driving and the engine suddenly quits. Turns over fine, but no catch. Sometimes a little sputter, but that's it. It usually throws a code though.

The majority of most engine drowning occurs when you first "drop in" the river, deep puddle, etc. You nose down and that's all it takes. Doesn't have to deep.

Check you center link for play. When you have a bad center link and put it in 4wd or just have the hubs locked, you will have no steering especially driving in a straight line. No matter what type of steering correction you do, you'll end up hitting something...

I hope I can help here, but it's been a few yrs since I did that. Access to those bolts will be on the passenger side around the area where the starter is. Make sure you have removed any build up of grease and dirt around that area as there are bolts that are used to hold a cover on. Behind that cover is the hole where you can see the bolts. If I'm off on this, someone please correct me!

When I was IFS, the Moog components bent worse than stock. Even with warranty, it was a pain to keep replacing them. Now, if the house brand sucks...

That's pretty cool!

Thanks for clearing that up Grim.

I could have sworn 4x4parts carried them years ago. ...or I'm just crazy...

I don't carry one with me anymore. To use one to lift the Pathy, I have to strap or chain the diffs to the frame, then have a long bar to get it high enough to lift a wheel. Works ok on level ground, but the times I would use it, never, ever on level ground. To much work for this old guy. I just use blocks of wood and my stock axle jack.

That's an old pic! I wonder where that hi-lift bracket went...