mws

If it is actually producing the higher output, yes, it requires more energy. An alternator converts mechanical energy to electrical energy. And not at a terribly impressive efficiency, either. To put out more electrical energy, you need to input more mechanical energy. That's why a slightly loose or glazed belt squeals worst right after start up - it has to ramp up it's output to high levels to recharge battery. As the battery recharges and demands less, the alternator output decreases and requires less mechanical energy, so it is easier to spin and slips less. I had a friend in the engineering program do his senior project with the intent to try to increase the efficiency of an automotive charging system enough to where it could be human powered - basically a bicycle powering an alternator. He made great strides - by the end, a person could actually keep a light bulb (a SINGLE) light bulb powered for a minute or two minutes before they became exhausted. We brought in a couple Cat 1 riders, and they could keep it going for about maybe 10 minutes.... Flick on a second lightbulb, and they ground to a halt within a few seconds - just couldn't turn the cranks hard enough. One mutant sprinter broke a chain trying to do it.

AARON! How you be? We miss you!

I haven't tried the noslip yet, but based on descriptions only, I think the noslip would be better for a daily driver. Last I checked with Richmond, they were only offering the Lockright for the Hitachi, and had no plans to produce a noslip. I have the Lockright and have adapted to driving with it. I also suspect this is some kind of error on Rocky Road website. The noslip is more complex and usually more expensive than lockright.

Only when I want to break things and wake up with major regrets.

Thought so....

That's an incredibly generous offer! Good on you! I'd gladly accept the parts and they'd get used on one of the family's fleet, but I don't "need" them. Let's see... who does the most for this site??? And has a real need? A couple years ago, I'd quickly nominate Slick, but now she is in the feast phase of employment... The pezster is unemployed, but she has Simon... and an R50. How about Simon's newer WD?

Welllllll??????????

Sure, I'll chime in! In general, you want your tongue weight to be at least 10% of the total weight to maintain stability. If tongue weight is too low, the trailer can become unstable under certain conditions and begin swaying back and forth (side to side). In severe cases, this instability can be severe and each oscillation gets worse and worse until the entire rig tips over or goes out of control. I've seen it happen, and it is frightening. There is really nothing the driver can do. Sometimes stabbing the trailer brakes (if electric with a controller in the cab) will snap it back in line, but that is assuming you can catch it in time. At some point, the whipping is so severe you won't be able to reach the controller... A good sway control system will help prevent this, but will not do enough to save a really poor set up. I really, really like airbags for towing. Airlift makes bags that fit within the rear springs. They work very well and do not cost much. When you need more load capacity, you pressurize them with compressed air and the load capacity is greatly increased. Properly installed and pressurized, it will bring vehicle back to level.

PU bumper? Don't know. Bumper hitches have very weak ratings anyway. Weld on? Not advised. Just hit a junkyard. LOTS of pathies had class III hitches added.

Retreads done right are excellent. Retreads done wrong are horrible. Do your research, talk to as many customers as you can, make your decision about how trustworthy they seem to be.

A very key factor: Is this a rebuilt starter or a factory Nissan?

Here's the link: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...80&start=80 The I6 springs may be quite adequate, depending on which they are. Jeep used MANY different spring rates. Slap a caliper on the wire and measure and you'll know what to expect.

How often to change? That is a great question and you will get many answers. For me, the answer is "it depends". The biggest benefit of paying for synthetic oil is the additive package. It is usually the best the manufacturer has - which is why the synthetic costs so much more. Many studies have shown the additives will keep the oil stable and the engine protected for many, many thousands of miles under the right conditions. The things that cause any oil to "wear out" or consume its additives: - Thermal cycles. Each time you start engine from cold, consider it a cycle. - Extreme heat. Driving through Death Valley in August stresses everything! - Extreme work. Like towing. The more you do any of those, the sooner you should change the oil. The other factor is contamination build up. The two nasty contaminations to be concerned with are combustion blow by and good old dirt. Blow by contains a lot of acids, dirt is just abrasive. So.... Factor in all of that and decide for yourself! For example, my situations are as follows: In our BMW 318is: This engine has been on M1 all its life. So despite almost 200K miles, it has very little wear with almost no blow by. Only street driven, no dirt. So the oil is still honey gold at 5K miles, getting darker at 10K. Based on this, it could easily go 20K miles without contamination issues. BUT, it it heavily used by my wife to commute back and forth to work. And lunch errands. So all the thermal cycles become a factor as they consume the start up protection additives. Based on that, I back intervals back down to about 10K miles. Nissan Maxima: Only 40K miles. No engine wear. Honey colored at 10K miles. Used mostly for long freeway drives. 20K mile change intervals is my norm, but this is the kind of application where studies show 50K miles may be OK.... Pathy: Unknown miles on this engine. Oil is dark brown at 5K, so some blow by. Used offroad, so dirt as well. Used by me for commuting and short hops. Usually change around 6K. Less often if long trips or no offroading. If it looks black, change it sooner. F250: Used for heavy towing, usually on hot days. Would really hate to lunch this expensive engine and be stranded. Change every 5K miles. Side note: I use high quality paper air filters on all, so minimal dirt intrusion. If you are running a cotton gauze filter (K&N et al) then you will be getting a lot more fine dirt contamination into cylinders and into oil, so need to change more frequently to minimize wear.

Or if you are running thicker than recommended oil now, try thinner. On my 240SX, it would do exactly what you described when I used the highest recommended weight thinking it would be good for it during our 110 degree summers. Went back to lightest recommended and it went away.

Based on 30 years experience and 6 years of Engineering education: I use straight Mobil 1 or Valvoline full synthetic Unless engine is leaking or so worn it is on last legs and burning lots of oil. Then I use cheap dino oil with Lucas oil stabilizer to milk another few 10's out..... Funny, all the engines I ran only straight Mobil 1 in NEVER became one of the ones needing Lucas.

Do it like the pro's (or at least the last pro that touched my Pathy): Just use the biggest impact wrench you have and hold the top nuts with a wrench. Don't even need to loosen the lock nut! Of course, it won't do a dammed thing but eliminate all the threads on the adjustor bolt. But no worries there - they won't notice until they try to adjust it themselves.

UNLESS an oversized fuse was installed, a melted fuse box usually indicates a damaged contact or wire in the fuse box. If the contacts are spread, or the wire going to the contact is severely compromised (like 90% broken) then a high resistance point results. High resistance means heat generation, even at current levels lower than the fuse installed.

With that, you will need to cut away a LOT of front fender if you want to be able to turn.

Do some searching on tire sizes. In a nutshell, 31x10.5-15 on 15x8 with 4.5 or 4.75 backspacing is about the the biggest "easy" fit on WD's. After that, you will likely be lifting and/or cutting to prevent rubbing.

Oh, and generally, halfway up the temp gauge is no problem. If it gets to about 3/4 or near the hot marks, then you want to shut down the A/C and after that, slow down to about 40 and turn on the heater.

My first '87 pathy had a factory radiator with a relativel thin core and it barely kept up. It was a 5 speed, with A/C from factory. That is the only WD I've seen that was any different from all the rest. I suspect the Intrepid fan you have has the capacity to move every bit as much as the stock. Just make sure the edges are somewhat sealed (no gaps over 1/8" or so). Again, if the problem is occuring at speeds under 30 mph, the fan matters. Over 30 or so, fan does not matter. I shut mine off entirely over 30 mph. The air being pushed through by "wind pressure" exceeds what any fan could pull. You don't have any obstructions to airflow, do you? Like bull bars or driving lights in front of grill, or mesh screening covering up any openings? Or a super large skid plate under the engine? Or removed the chin spoiler/air dam from under the bumper?

You wouldn't. Although if you insist, you could use a water cooled intercooler under the blower....

Most electric fans do move less air than mechanical. But at freeway speeds, there is no need for any fan as there is lots of air moving already! How old is the current radiator? It's pretty warm out here (109 yesterday) and I have no cooling issues with a new stock sized radiator. If your radiator is more than 3 or 4 years old and hasn't had the coolant changed on a regular basis, it will have a nice insulative layer of corrosion covering the inside. Not exactly what you want! If you start with a new radiator and take care of it, it should be able to keep up. And I'd suggest using a maximum of 50% antifreeze in your area with a shot of Water Wetter as well. Antifreeze increases boil over temp, but it also reduces heat transfer rate. It doesn't carry as much heat as water, and does not transfer it as efficiently.

If I were in your shoes, I would be willing to pay for a second opinion.

The expansion valve would be the most likely place where a clog could occur - it is a small orifice. And I'm not convinced about the diagnosis being a clog either. And for the $1400 they were going to charge you, you could afford to get your own vacuum pump and do it yourself - assuming you understand how and are capable of doing it yourself.