dernt

I am tempted to buy this for myth-busting. I would probably have a better chance at causing an intake manifold leak than seeing any performance gain. I have dyno result in my current near-stock condition.........hmmmmmm.

Ten dollars?

Yeah, you can buy the ones you asked about from me in the classifieds. I used them for a couple of months while I putzed around getting my poly bushings in my originals. They will cost you less than 1/2 of the dealer. I bought them from the dealer and I might be able to scrounge up the receipt.

I really like the HIDs or projectors or whatever those headlights are on the newer QX4s, but you know you want another crack at making the VG go. I'd say you cant go wrong either way, but what I would really like to do is put a new qx4 front clip on my old 97. Hopefully some new updates on my VG will be done by the end of the summer.

I'm getting ready to put on an additional tranny cooler, and I'd like to know how you made out this whichever one you installed. I have the factory external cooler in addition to the integral radiator cooler. I'm thinking I will replace the external with a bigger aftermarket. I notice the 10,000# GVW coolers at Pep Boys and Discount had smaller diameter tubing than the factory.

7 hours might be the flat rate for this job. Does anyone have access to that sort of info? If you plan on doing it yourself, and you have never done one before, plan on the vehicle being down for two days. You might get it done in one, but there are tons of things that can go wrong along the way. You could discover bad hoses, you should plan on replacing the water pump, you might break something (I broke a tensioning bolt/nut that was only available at the dealer), and etc.

Who is this? Posting police? You wanna break something up, go jump into the cluster f*ck b*tch fest in classifieds about the Prado lift.

Yes! the performance comparison vs. the 4.0 will be intheresting. And your speculation about the ECU is quite possibly. It had only 43 miles. I'd like to drive one with the stillen supercharger kit for the 5.6, but that would add another 6k to the price. I would also like to give the R51 another go at it without the sales person riding shotgun.

ok, so to drag this out way further than needed, that is a ridiculous statement based on your first statement. Both cars will have drivers, fuel, and yadda yadda. If as you stated, (and I agreed by saying point taken) it's HP/weight ratio that matters, the vehicle with the higher curb weight is affected less by considering loaded weight rather than curb weight, for example: 300 HP/ 3600 # curb weight = 0.0833 HP/# 300 HP/ 4800 # curb weight = 0.0625 HP/# The pathy loses by 0.0208 HP/# or, by considering loading the vehicle as you suggested, let's say with 400# for whatever. 300 HP/4000 # loaded = 0.075 HP/# 300 HP/5200 # loaded = 0.057 Hp/# Now the heavier vehicle still loses but by only 0.0173 HP/# My point initially was that this doesn't feel like a vehicle with anything close to 300 HP. And I'm not talking about any light car; I'm talking about old Detroit vehicles from the 70s pushing 4000 lbs with low compression engines. Look at my post title, this is my impression of the vehicle.

The model I drove weighed 4800 lbs, and most cars (at least those with that kind of power) weigh at least 3600 lbs. You're point is taken, but the Pathfinder weighs about 33% more than a car, not 200%.

I stopped by Nissan to get a fuel filter yesterday and they had a new 2008 pathfinder 5.6, so I had to drive it. It feels much better than my R50, but 310 HP? 300+ HP just ain't what it used to be. It's a nice vehicle, but the interior was a funky brownish reddish leather, and the fake wood panel decals make it look cheap. The shifter felt sloppy too. Not to mention the sticker was over $37k.

So then what happens to the fuel timing vs. ignition timing once I do this? I might try it next dyno pull, but i suspect it is already somewhat advanced due to the pinging mentioned in my prior post. I'll stick a timing light on to check.

It pings like crazy on low octane fuel. I get premium at a local station that sells it for the same price as mid grade on Fri and Sat. It costs 0.10 more per gallon than 87 octane on those days. So it costs me $1.80 more per fill up. With the cost of gas now, the difference in price is neglible.

stock exhaust, as far as I know, R50 timing is not adjustable, so yes, stock timing (clue me in if I can change it), 93 octane, 100-150 ft elevation.

The dyno results are in. First let me say I did not post any qualitative results prior to the dyno because with the exception of the truck being quieter now, I felt no difference. I do not understand why the files differ from the print out, but relative to each other, they sort of agree. One month ago, prior to my header install, I had a baseline dyno pull, and I had another this morning. Ok to drag out the suspense......one month ago the humidity on the dyno data read 12-13%, today it read 37-39%. I am assuming humidity is deleterious to performance and I doubt the validity of the RH numbers, but it was a heck of a lot more humid today than a month ago. Also, ambient temperature was 83-85 one month ago, and 86-87 today which probably had little to no effect. pre headers 134 HP and 163 ft-lb (from dyno file) post headers 135 HP and 168 ft-lb (from dyno file) Now the print out results were as follows: pre headers 137.6 HP and 167 ft-lb (print out) post headers 138 HP and 171 ft-lb (print out) I have no explaination for the discrepency in the printed data handed to me vs. the computer files I copied today. Now, before you all go psycho, there is a problem with the air-fuel ratio. It is lean @ ~ 13.5:1 to 14:1 in some places. Like a dummy, I have not changed my fuel filter in eons, so I am hoping that will help. But I don't think I'm gonna go for a dyno based on a fuel filter swap. So if you are dying for that 1 HP and 5 ft-lbs. of torque, hunt down those Stillens and you will be in business. The power and torque gain was consistant through most of the rpm range. Blue is with headers, Red is without. The upper curve is torque of course, and lower is HP.

H233b has a 9.17" ring gear, not 9.75". It is not much different in size from a ford 9".

Oh yeah, look what I bid on but did not win. I should have ponied up more. Probably worth more. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=280118490833

Yep, that's with the Stillen CAI. I think the pathfinder is rated at 160 HP at the flywheel, if so, 137 hp is less than 15% loss through drive train. I have cats, but I think I want to sell as a pair. They have 160,000 miles on them, but I was not throwing codes with them. I'll post in classified.

Bah!, sandblast and powdercoat. Rust is slower than me.

Well, since you brought it up........

No link to the forum on the nissanpathfinders.com front page. Something wrong?

98Silver and Pezzy are right. I bought these from ebay a while back, repaired them, and sent to Jet-Hot for coating. My right manifold was destroyed, so my Pathfinder got quieter with these on. Pre-header install my best dyno was 137.6 RWHP @ 4700 rpm and 167 ft-lb. torque at 3500 rpm. Gonna try for a dyno pull this week time permitting. I will post better installed pics later, but right now it's dark outside. Please no cracks about my oily valve covers.

I will post dyno results next week.

got it

The pros in keeping them are: 1. You are not violating federal laws by removing them. Many people seem to think that if you do not have emission testing in your area, you can remove them. This is not true. It is a federal crime to remove emission control devices. 2. Cats remove some of the toxic gases emitted by your vehicle. 3. Your engine control unit (ECU) is programmed for optimum performance including the cats in the system. The cons in keeping: 1. They are costly, but unless clogged, you probably don't need to replace the existing ones. 2. Some performance gain might be achieved without them, but I don't think there is any quantitative evidence. I could be wrong here and I'm sure someone will let me know.