dernt

Mine came off relatively easy with a harmonic balancer puller and two 6 x 60 mm bolts. I just posted a heads up over at AC about those bolts maybe a month ago. Too bad you missed that. I used an impact wrench to replace the crank bolt. I don't know what the torque spec on that bolt is, but maybe you can install one of the old drive belts, wedge a tool in it to keep it from turing and get enough torque. Then remove the old belt and put on a new one. That's not really my first choice for holding the motor from turning, but short of pulling the starter, I can't think of anything else. Maybe someone has a trick out there.

There was a thread somewhere on this forum where people were posting online parts suppliers. It was recent, but I can't find it for the life of me now. Can anyone help?

I installed the OME heavy duty in the front and I am super-pleased with the result. My front and rear heights are much closer and the truck looks level rather than the jacked up look that many pathfinders have.

Well I certainly don't remember the OME springs being shorter than the stock springs that I removed and I bought my truck brand new so they were the originals. I am pretty sure I set them side by side and I recall them being similar in height. I didn't break out a caliper, or even a tape measure for that matter. I am sure the OME HD front springs are longer than the stock ones. I definately remember comparing those, but again I didn't take a measurement. Anyone else compare these springs?

Neither the front or rear OME springs are smaller than the OEM ones. I installed these myself. Where did you get your info?

I installed a set of OME springs, and stock height KYB gas-a-just in the rear and GR-2s in the front. On rough dirt roads, it feels like my rear shocks are topping out. Are the OME shocks the same height as stock, or are they longer? I hope I didn't screw up by not getting the OME shocks, or longer KYBS. Anyone else notice this?

This probably isn't the appropriate forum for this, but since I have a 97 Pathfinder, it's the one I read in on. www.discounttire.com has free shipping and some really good prices on certain tires. I bought 4 BFG 265-60-18 for 58.00 each. That's cheaper than buying used tires after shipping.

If you want it to look really nice, send it off to a powder coater.

If you just bought that car, bring it back to the dealer. I'm sure you get at least 30 days warranty.

A while back, someone had a link to a guy that made sliders for pathfinders and other vehicles. These were very heavy duty and I think were weld-on only. Anyone remember what I am talking about? I can't find the link.

Spoke to soon. My shudder is back, but less pronounced. Anyone else?

Changing the fluid seems to have worked! I changed the fluid in the pan, drove for a while, and changed it again. Shifting smooooth now. Hope it lasts.

I drained mine earlier today before the discussion on capacity. I started to refill, got to 4.5 quarts, and said to myself,"let me check and see if anyone commented about the capacity of 5.5 quarts." I thought it sounded high. So after reading what has been posted today, I went out and used the dipstick to check where I was. Mine is overfull at 4.5 quarts. I'll probably drive it around the block a few times, drain again, and refill. I'm assuming Dean understood that this was a transmission discussion, and he was quoting some Nissan capacity level.

Mine does the same thing. It has 130k miles on it. It's been doing it for about 40k miles. It's driving me nutso.

What brand/make are those rims? They are cool.

How bout this?

I found a pair of new OEM Nissan nerf bars or side steps for about 175.00 a few months back on eBay. They were under $200 delivered.

Kudos to Linders! I changed my shocks, struts, and springs over to OME and KYB this weekend. Both struts were shot, especially the right one. No more intermittent vibrations. Linders was on the mark.

oh, I see. Guess he just plumbed it on the right. I still say the M-62 would be easier. If you get the lower intake off a SC Xterra or Frontier, that's one less thing to fab and the pulleys wouldn't have to be rigged either. Maybe on an older TBI intake, the M-90 would be easier, but not on the MPI intake, and this is the 96+ forum, so I assume that's what most people reading in have.

L&P's Pathfinder has TBI. Not only would we have to convince him that it was worth the trouble to put a kit together, we would also have to convince him to do it on a newer Pathfinder. Unless you want to go backwards and retrofit an older fuel system to your vehicle. The M-90s intake port is on the right side of the engine which would require additional re-plumbing. Since the M-62 has been designed to bolt to the VG33 equipped with the correct manifolds, I'm betting it is the easier route.

I've got a SC Xterra motor sitting in my yard. I'm going for it. I have a 97 2wd and I don't plan on doing any offroading in that, so I'm gonna make it a pavement pounder. I was considering a swap to an american v8, but I came across this motor and figured it would be a hell of a challenge. Money is tight, and I plan on doing as much as I can in my budget to the motor while it's out b4 the swap, so it's gonna be a while.

I just bought KYB strut mounts to do a suspension overhaul. The bearings in these are plastic. Is this the case with the factory bearings too? The concensus seems to be use OEM Nissan strut mounts and bearings. Anyone have good/bad luck with the KYB mounts?

Pezzy, How hard do you think it would be to go the other way? You put a bumper for a 96-99 on a 99.5+. I have a 97, and I'm looking at the ARB for the 99.5+. Do you think I can do this? How hard was your alterations?

The vibration doesn't feel like a bad cv joint (I know there are none on this car, just comparing) and I've had many cars in my life, several of which had tires in horrible condition, and I've never had an out of balance tire feel like this either, but I have free balance and rotation, so I'll give that a shot. I did have an old Celica that had idler arm/pitman arm/steering box steering, which had a bad idler arm, that sort-of felt like the current problem, although it was much more severe. Maybe some slop in the tie rod ends or the rack and pinion causing it?

My 97 2WD 127k miles has a front end vibration that happens between 40-60 mph. It only last a second or two and sounds like if you were to hold your lips shut and pronounce brrrrrrrt. How's that for a ridiculous description? It shakes the steering wheel and the dash, and sort of feels like it comes from the right side. Anyone with a similar experience?