jadm4x4

yep its the same stuff. frign expensive but its like looking through a flyscreen, 304 grade stainless. its used for blast areas, fire break, and security, all i need now is one of those little hammers in the back for breaking the glass just incase someone gets stuck in there in an emergency.

Hi all. I have had a few people ask me what was a crimsafe cargo barrier or wanted pics of it. So i finnaly got around to taking some descent pic for the post. this product is a stainless steel wovn mesh with aluminum security door frame around the edge. It was actually a door that i repo'd from a customer. the door itself retailed for $1200 aussie dollars. but i bought it for $80 and that is al this whole mod to the car cost me. Just to let you know that this has nothing to do with the "crimsafe" company at all. I have manufactured this product for many years and is acually a security door product for residential homes. It also does not comply with austalian design rules for Australia and probly not for any country....lol Crimsafe is not avalible in all countries but is being released in the US soon i am told This only took me 3 hours to manufacture and install. wasnt hard at all. only using an aluminium mitre saw. drill, and a hammer, socket set, and the tow bar for making the brackets. and a bit of know how. I did not follow any other barrier with the sizes so it was make as i go. The top fixings gointo the roof where the plug for the roof lineing is. ( no i didnt go all the way through) sorry pic is sideways. but the bottom brackets i made to fit in the same possitions as the tie downs in the rear. any qustions go for youre life. happy to answer any.....

HMMMM SURVIVAL GEAR. Besides the usual tools and wire and belts first aid kit. (including dora and wiggles band aids) for the kids water. gps, mobile phone. x 2 mag lights. fire extingisher. lighter x 2 uhf. x 3 ( x1 mounted x 2 handheld) good to keep in contact with kids, 1x newspaper. (yep. good for starting fires, easy to pack, and something to read.) crap paper, full recovery kit. (winch all straps and shackles) jack. no high lift...... a steel plate 30cm a 30cm for jacking on sand. axe. hammer, rope, a couple of tent pegs, small tarp, the list is endless. and on a lighter side of it. dual screen dvd player. so yeh i do know all the dora the exporer movies, and the wiggles backwards. keeps the kids of youre back while im trying to dig the pathy out of a bog hole.

also look at how much you want to pay for postage. ..... just a little thought

i would love to see that aswell. especially if its a cheaper mod. anything to help.

JUST CRAPY WHITE. BUTWITH BLAZE BLUE ROO BAR

all good. but the only problem we cant buy seatbelts from the wreckers here. otherwise they are liable if anything goes wrong in a accident

sounds like a rebuild to me. but im not as fully experienced as others on here. i would start with a compression test if possible. if not sounds like a good project car if its cheap enough

what about the drive shaft where it goes into the back of the box. Not shure on yours but my 87 has like a protective shroud over the shaft where the spline is. If it aint straight it will rub aswell. Have you put some gasket gue behind the brake pads. And or do you have wear indicators on the pads. Rip those buggers of if you do. Just a couple of sugestions for you to try.

well with kids in the back with the center seatbelt. Keeps retracting to far when they are wearing it. Is this normal or defective. Im sick of stoping to undo it and put it back on. There a good idea when they arnt wearing them but an issue altogether. Thought of changing it over to a manual adjustable belt but want to know if its just another isssue with my pathy

cut the origional wireing and go to a realay. Just like a set of spotties. I have already looked into it. Just need to do it twice for hi and low beam..... And just wire it into the existing switch on the colum

hello. I worked as a locksmith for a few years. Sound as if one of the top pins is stuck. Never use an oil based lubricant on them..... Its a big no no.... Us a small amount of silicon spray onside the tumbler. And dont use graphite powder. You will need to remove the ignition switch and take it to a locksmith for new pins. They can re do this by using the existing key. It will cost you but if you drill out the tear away bolts and use an easy out to remove them. The locksmith or a parts supplier can get you new bolts. Good luck. Its actually an easy thing to do, locks are a very basic mechanical item for what they do. Any probs pm me and ill try help you further

the big question on my lips is has any one tried putting two cariiers on. the single wont hold the weight of 2 spare wheels. so if im gussing that no one has tried i may have to be a gunnie pig. if any one is interested ill do a write up when it is done and moddifed to fit one on each side. the biggest prob will be the mounting hinge brackets. time to get the cad programe out i think. but any ideas would be appreciated.

i took mine off and re powdercoated it. ust mainly for the looks. and i had to lift the spare whhel up higher becouse it covered the number plate on the back. stupid aussie ( well queensland) rules. even had to mount side indicators on the side on the front for i to pass inspection. well anywho. i ground mine down to the bracket. came straight out. hadnt been greased in 20 years i think. but i used the origional bushings. then i just grabed some bolts and nut from the local hardware. put the nut on. bolted her up and drilled a hole through the nut an pined them to stop them fromdropping off. presto. with all the grinding ( off old paint.) moving the wheel holder up. welding. and powdercoating. only took 4 hours. ps..... just watch out if you are going to powdercoat it. on mine where the pin goes into the tube for the carrier. ( you now just of the hinge) nissan has descided to use some sort of @!*%ty crappy grease rubbery crud. as powder coating takes 20minutes at 200 degrease. its shure to run out the end and stuff the job up. FIXED i welded the sucker. melted the crud and im shure it wont fall apart.

its easy. i carry a small first aid kit case the kids are crook. only so the dingo's dont sick when they eat them...... but full recovery gear aswell. so i can pull out the odd hilux or jeep....... yep its a jeep thing. only wankers understand....lol

anyone know of what diameter the lift blocks are. i can find 50mm high and 50mm diameter or 50mm high and 75mm diameter...... any suggestions. only $10 aussie dollars difference between the two sizes for each but better than welding back on cracked supports. ive seen picks of a hilux that had snaped of chassis supports. wasnt a fun task to replace them

nah it goes slow like my pathy..... (im a member of nislow...... couldnt get into nismo......lol) but ill hunt on ebay i think and see what lifting blocks i can get. maybe a job for this weekend. just have to find bigger rubber. ill do some searching to see what size i can find

nah what ive been able to find here is just the spacers. And the bar was on there when i bought it. I do ally. Steel welding and powdercoating at work so i can make what ever i want. The best thing is im 2ic with keys to the factory. Hehehehehehehehehehehehehehehe. So i think the falklift is in order for the lift. Sounds easier than the jacks. Lol but we have to have modification plates here for a lift. And no greater than 5o mm. Dam

JUST A QUESTION FOR ALL. WHAT TYPE OF BLOCKS ARE YOU GUYS USUNG. ALLY BILLOT OR OTHER. GOING TO DO MINE THIS WEEKEND. HOPEFULLY Ta

never seen a factory light bar here in oz. Even looked up the sles brochure when they were first releast here in oz. Say the first pathy at the melbourne motorshow. But ive made mine from a rola roof rack and for nava spotties. 4 on roof and 4 on the front bar. Cant put a pic up yet. Doing this from a mobile phone...lol but have a look in my profile for a pic. good work and keep it up

first roady failed. Had to replace upper control arm bushes. Managed to pick some up from nissan. Repco could get me nolathane but would take a week to get them in. Done them over the weekend and good as new. I have a pic on my profile if anyone is interested in a look see. Keep the good work up guys.....

turns out that the issue was a couple of strands had broken inside the cable cover. When i origionaly took it out it worked fine when it was straight. Put it back in when curved and the issue was there.$5 of our good aussie dollars at the wreckers and she is running as good as new.a little stretched but good for now. Thanks for the input anyway. This site is tops. Keep it up

THANKS HEAPS. ILL GIVE THAT A GO

hi all. I have 87 pathy with z24. I have the issue of having high revs. Taking the foot of the go go juice and the engine will idle at 2 grand. I have to constantly put my foot under the aceleretor peddal to lift it up. The spring on the peddal itself is fine and thee cable is also good. I have sprayed carby with cleaners and lubricants and with still no affect. Any other suggestions. Please help. The only good thing is off road i dont have to use the pedal. Works like a chocke if anything.....lol..... i only get 350 klm to a tank. The extra 50km would be great