GrimGreg

They are made to mount on a rack, but you could probably fab 4 feet to bolt to the roof and basket.

My guess would be so it drained faster

Unplug the coil wire and hold the metal tip while touching the engine block with the other hand, then have someone turn the key and crank the engine. J/K

Move the event east and I might think about going....but probably still wouldn't.

Looks like he didn't rely on just that short section, but gusseted his with the lift brackets.

Yeah, it sounds like a PITA involved process to pull a CV off, but it really isn't. Those that say just replace the whole thing, glad you have extra $$ to throw around on replacing good working parts. I have a hard enough time getting the $$ together to replace the broken parts, let alone the good ones.

I think his point was; split boots are crap, you can buy regular full boots to replace them with, so do that or don't do anything. I wouldn't bother with the split boot, a new full bot is $15 or less each. Also, yes, inner and outers are different.

You will no matter what with the stock tin foil bumpers.

As far as I know you are fine to leave it on. Not like it runs in OD only when you have it on, it just allows the tranny to have the option to shift into OD.

Pedal feel change at all? Pull the screen in the MC and watch the fluid in there while someone else pumps the brakes, and then watch while they push and hold the brake. If you see any bubbles you have a leak between the booster and MC. If not start bleeding each wheel to see if you find any air bubbles, if you do, then trace that line.

The head is aluminum. Get some Anti-Seeze and put on the new plugs' threads. Torque spec is only like 15ftlb.

That is the PITA part of the whole thing, getting the pully turned to just the right spot that you can stick the socket through it onto the pivot bolt.

Yeah, there was just a story about someone breaking a plug off in the head, not a fun thing to fix, but fixable. Gap is .33 IIRC

Duct tape > split boot It takes about 3 leizurely hours to fix a boot or replace an entire CV, and that is taking a lot of time to do things like drink beer.

I found a Coleman basket for $99 on sale for half price at Target a few years ago. It has universal U mounts that fit any crosstube/bar. It kinda looks like a cheap version of the Yakima Load Warrior.

A few years back a guy on AC had one out of a caR-50 that he installed in his WD. Sounds like it wasn't too hard to do/adapt. I think limo tint is better, less crap to find a place for when you fold the seats flat.

To replace the one that goes into a drum: Block the front wheels and raise the rear and pull the wheel off the side that is busted. Undo the mount to the underside of the body (2x12mm bolts IIRC), and uncouple the link between the L and R cables. Pull off the drum and disassemble the brake parts (good time to replace shoes and springs if needed). Unhook the end of the cable off the lever in the drum, watch out for the spring. Now is the tricky part, the sheath that comes out of the back of the drum is a friction fit, so it needs to be tapped out with a dull chisel. There is a "bump" on the sheath that you can use the chisel on to tap it off. Once you get that loose you need to get the cable and seal out of the drum; push it as far into the hole in the back as you can by hand, then use a drift punch (about 3/16" or 1/4") and tap on the end of the cable to pop it through. Assembly is about the same in reverse. The trickiest part is reseating the sheath into the back of the drum assembly, but it can be done by tapping the opposite direction on the "bump" with the chisel.

You did read my last post (quoted for you) right? Gimme a jackhammer and I might be able to find this bolt you speak of.

Everything on mine is either rusted, corroded, or crusted with salt, mud, oil, AT fluid or all of the above. You need a jack-hammer, pressure washer and 50 gallon jug of PB Blaster just to attempt to work on it. I had it out and about today. it chilled out once it warmed up, but still felt kind of off, almost like it was trying to missfire here and there.

That's pretty hard to do with our distributor cap and rotor alone. Both have one way to go on with no rotational play in them.

Sounds like what mine is doing now. I changed my fuel filter 2 weeks ago, and just replaced my cap and rotor this morning. It started running like that after the cap and rotor swap.

I used te Krylon plastic paint on my Hella light covers and it made them britle. They were a softer flexible plastic and after the paint they wouldn't flex, just crack.

And to think, some people can't get theirs' to come out on purpose.

You could be creating a vacuum with the window open a little, pulling more up throught the torn boot.

If it is good level on oil, then it is probably the sender wire grounding out someplace. My 88 has that trouble, still trying to trace where in the wire it's bad.