Leaderboard

Well, I'm done retrofitting the sun visors. It was relatively easy with the only hassle being routing the wires through the small holes in the roof. There is a reinforcing structure just above the windshield that prevents you from easily reaching out and grabbing the wire. To make that part easy you would need to remove the whole headliner, which is something I wasn't willing to do. In any case, it's manageable once you get the hang of it. The rest is just splitting wires and testing everything. I tapped into the reading lights power and ground as I planned but on the console's side. The main harness was left untouched. I already programmed two garage motors. BTW, @hawairish, not sure if homelink is always powered in R50s as they came from the factory, but they way I wired it (to the power saver interior lighting circuit) it cuts power after 10-15 min so it's not that bad. What I don't know is if someone forcefully opens a door (without the key and with the alarm armed) if the car will be dumb enough to "wake up". If it does, then there's still that risk you mentioned.

The alarm on these was an afterthought, so it's pretty easy to remove. Most of it is just plugged in between stuff. Your ignition switch plugs into the alarm harness, which plugs into the main harness--so you just separate the two plugs and plug the switch into the main harness, without the alarm harness in between. Same deal for the power locks, at the A pillar. I think the horn was the same way. A couple wires are scotchlock'd into the harness, so you'll have to pick those apart or cut the wires on the alarm harness side. The parking lights are tapped near the switch, and the dome light is tapped near the fuel door release IIRC. The wires for the hood switch and the siren go through the firewall along with the fog light harness, so be careful which wires you cut there. IIRC the fog harness is also scotchlock'd to the headlight harness near the switch. The alarm brain is the square box under the driver's seat with the hole in the top (or a white sticker over the hole in the top, if that's still there). You will need to remove the driver's seat, the kick panel, the clamshell, and the trim plate along the bottom of the door jamb. Might need to remove the dash panel under the clamshell as well. Didn't take too long when I did it to mine, and my starter circuit has been reliable since.