Leaderboard

It is built like an electric choke, but no, it does not mess with the mixture. Just the idle speed. The IACV raises the idle by giving the air blocked by the throttle an alternate path into the manifold (bypassing the throttle). This has the same effect as opening the throttle slightly. In fact the VG33 does exactly that, using a wax element (like what's in a thermostat) to prevent the throttle from closing fully when it's cold. Warm idle also bypasses the throttle body, but is controlled by the computer. I don't know why the two systems are separate. None of this should change the air/fuel ratio. The air that the IACV (or the thermo element) is letting into the intake manifold still has to go through the MAF sensor, so the computer knows about it, and will maintain the mixture accordingly. (Also, sorry for the radio silence on your wiring question--will get back to that soon!)

Moral of the story, 2in suspension lift in the front is totally good to go. 2in suspension lift with 1in strut spacer - pushes your CV Axle out of it's threshold and isnt reliable. 4 years ago I installed a suspension lift in the front and rear of my 1999 Infiniti QX4. I went with 2in AC springs with KYB stock travel struts in the front. I went with heavy duty Land Rover Springs and Bilstein 33-185552 extended travel shocks in the rear. After several years, the setup still felt pretty good (have driven about 80k miles). I got a solid 2.5inches out of the rear suspension lift, potentially 3inches (never accurately measured). The front AC springs lifted about 1.75inches. The QX4 always had a rake, with the rear being noticeably taller than the front. Never really bothered me. From the start, the front would top out if I hit a bump or dip going too fast. This caused parts of the shock mount/tower, strut bearing, and strut to need replacing, but after at least 60k miles of pretty rigorous driving on dirt roads and the occasional (somewhat) gritty trail. The rear did not have any issues until recently, when I noticed the rear shock bushings were worn out - the top eyelet on both rear shocks had "ovaled" itself over time since I had installed them without fabricating/modifying the shock mount or bushing to be able to install the bushing sleeve the bilsteins came with. I ordered and installed new eyelet bushings to both shocks, installed the bushing sleeves, bought 0.5in bolts with a nut (and some washers) and drilled out the shock mount so the bolt would fit snuggly in the sleeve and also through the shock mount. The rear feels great again. Recently, for some stupid reason, decided to install a 1inch strut spacer (from SF creations) in the front to level the rake. Successfully installed the dumb spacers and the QX4 not longer has a rake. QX4 drove fine, but I did need to install camber bolts (1 on each side, could probably use 2 on each side to really dial in the camber) to get the alignment straight. Wheels are within camber spec but from a visual they look like they could be more level if two camber bolts on each side were to be installed. Today, while making a turn on flat asphalt, I heard a loud pop and then non-stop popping, clunking coming from the front right side. I had a guy in a parking lot look while I turned the wheel slowly, and also drove slowly. We pin pointed the noise, its a totally exploded CV axle outer joint. I have the Trakmotive "high articulation" CV axles, which I ran for the 80k miles leading up to this with no issue (one torn boot at about 60k mi). But within about 5k miles of installing the 1in spacer, the boots started looking like they were suctioning (not accordion-ing properly). Now the CV has exploded. Moral of the story, 2in suspension lift in the front is totally good to go. 2in suspension lift with 1in strut spacer - pushes your CV Axle out of it's threshold.