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No sweat, @Everett. We've all gotten frustrated at a repair or two. It's to be expected on older trucks. So, it actually sounds like you just need a re-work. Initially I thought you greased the bolts and tightened to spec, but I think what you're saying is that you only snugged them and the grease was to allow the bushings to rotate in their mounts. If so, the correction here would be to: Put the truck on the ground Loosen the bolts a little (also do for the panhard bar, just in case) Get the suspension to settle to ride height (a few bounces on the bumpers and door sills ought to do) Tighten all bolts to spec Rear upper link: 103-116 ft-lbs Rear lower link: 85-98 ft-lbs for the forward hardware, 103-116 ft-lbs rearward hardware Panhard bar: 103-116 ft-lbs Front lower control arm: 69-96 ft-lbs for the forward bolt, 87-108 ft-lbs for the bolts that hold the bracket securing the tail bushing. If you haven't already, get all the FSM chapters from https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals. You'll find all the instructions there, parts diagrams, troubleshooting steps, torque specs, notes (straight from the book: "Final tightening for rubber parts requires to be carried out under unladen condition with tires on ground."), etc. Get all the PDFs and save them to your computer.

Dumped the diff fluid yesterday and drained for an hour. The drain plug magnet had but a small amount of black debris, looked like black mud, no metal chunks. Refilled with Lucas 75-90 synthetic diff lubricant. The droning noise has dimished to a point of nonexistence at this point. At this point I will monitor for other noises. Tough being a person that hates noises, rattles, squeaks and the plethora of annoying little things that come with a used car. Sure do like my R50! MTG