Leaderboard

You do have to have the CV fully removed. It's supposed to be in tight, so putting up a fight isn't unexpected. Most of the time, I will resort to the following processes, in this order: 1. Loosen the nut, but leave it in place at the bottom of the stud. Smack the knuckle with a sledge hammer a couple times, then smack the bottom of the nut upward. Repeat. 2. Ball joint tool on the joint, tightened up so that there's tension on the joint, then sledge hammer to the knuckle. Joint tends to pop here. 3. Pickle fork. People seem to dislike them, but I've never had it not work, it's just usually a little more aggressive. 4. Heat the knuckle for a little bit, then do #1. Smacking the knuckle a few times is key. Just changed my passenger ball joint a few days ago. #1 was all I needed, but I'm fortunate to live in a dry region.

I think I found it. Same place behind the pull out change compartment on driver side fue box. 3 relays, with the middle being the blower motor from what I found. I ended up replacing that relay and fuses but it didn't help. I purchased a $20 blower motor resister on Amazon and that didn't fix it. Then I purchased a new blower motor from AutoZone and that got the air running again. Put everything back together and then it kept blowing after I turned it off. So I had to take it apart again and put the new resistor back in. I had put the old one back in because I thought it was just the blower motor. So it ended up being the resistor AND the blower motor. $170 in parts and back in business.