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The unfortunate thing that no one is going to want to tell you, is without repairing the transmission it probably isn't worth much. I just did the KBB value on your car, and for a private party sale (with a good transmission) and in "excellent" shape the value is $2,800. I think you'd be super lucky to find someone willing to pay you $1,000 for it with the transmission problems. KBB values tend to be on the higher side of what you can actually get without spending a lot of time and marketing of the car. You'll also probably be hampered by the fact that anyone who wants these older vehicles are probably going to want 4wd too. Personally I'd try to get a real transmission repair quote while it is still driveable, and before it would have to be trailered somewhere. Then decide if that quote is worth it to you to keep the vehicle absent any residual value it has now. The vehicle is a sunk cost to you at this point. You wouldn't want to pay more for a repair than you could reasonably get for the car in its repaired state, in case you needed to sell it. But the value in its current state isn't really a factor.

Without looking at value or anything, my gut tells me that if a replacement transmission is less than.... $1500 it'd be worth it to me. Obviously can save money if it's remanufactured, rebuilt, junkyard, DIY, etc. Why that much? Well, it's obviously in good shape and still a good vehicle. You know all the history, one owner, etc. Replace the transmission and I bet you could get many more years out of it. The alternative is you spend more than the transmission on a different vehicle. Either much more on a new vehicle with known history, or somewhat more on a vehicle that runs, but probably doesn't have the same meticulous records/history as yours. Just throwing an opinion out there for ya, you know what they say about opinions

It’ll matter for the R51 though because of the independent rear suspension...but to your point, having it a little higher for off-road use shouldn’t be a long-term problem. He’d still need to maintain a regular ride height like Mr. Reverse suggested, since the change in suspension will affect camber. Though @Moses76 should clarify if he’s seeking to replace the spring with an air spring/bag, or if he’s talking about Airlift bags inside the existing springs. Two different systems, with the latter not really controlling ride height, just load handling. The former is part of a full suspension system, which I believe is what he’s referring to.

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You should search & review the lift threads. I think virtually everyone would agree on Landrover Springs for the rear (2 heights & 2 spring rates). Most people use Bilstein shocks for the rear, either 5100s or 5160/65s. The front has essentially 2 options: AC or ARB OME. The AC give you a full 2” lift but at the cost of a harsh ride. The OME are a superb ride but don’t lift as much (you’ll likely want a 1” spacer) & cost more. For struts, the leaders are KYB & OME. Unfortunately, the OME cost 3x the KYB so it’s very reasonable to go with the KYB - no real complaints. For the strut bearing, use Nissan OME - too many problems with other brands. Make sure you read about & understand the top hat issues. I’d just reuse the OEM but if you go aftermarket, be sure you have the top hat spacer properly placed - history of many errors & failures there.

AC coils in the front, Land Rover NRC9449 Coils, 32x11.5 tires, 15x8 rims with 3.75 backspacing. Front trimming required, tire fully tucks in the rear.