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It does sound like a bad regulator on the cluster. Tests you can do is turn the key on, engine off and see what the gauges do. If they max out again, unplug the sender for the temp gauge and see if it drops. Do the same for the oil pressure. If they drop, odds are pretty good the regulator has failed.

Finally, after around 16 hours of fighting with almost every single nut & bolt, the front is done (except alignment of course)!! I didn't take any pics along the way because of the frustration of having to heat almost every fastener up with the torch, breaker bar w/4ft cheater pipe, high torque impact gun, you get the idea, but I only snapped 1 little bolt off (one that holds the bracket of nonsense on top of the drivers side strut tower and a bunch on the hubs). Had to ditch my Mile Marker hubs, as they were locked in the lock position and when I was attempting to take them apart, damn near every one of the little bolts that hold the "cap" on snapped. Once I got them off I inspected and repacked the wheel bearings, then put it back together with the stock drive flanges (thank God I saved them!). She drives good, now has about an inch & a half "Cali-lean" going on, but that'll be addressed midweek when I tackle the rear. Time for a hot shower and a cold beer... Sent from my Mobile Communications Device

Well, it did get a little hot going up the remarkables but I have since realised that the radiator was half covered in mud so that probably contributed...

Another skid plate option is Coastal Offroad though I’d check to be sure it fits an OEM bumper. https://www.coastaloffroad.com/product-page/r50-nissan-pathfinder-high-clearance-front-bumper-kit

Ya. I was just telling someone that Time is definitely the rarest commodity I have. I dont have time for interests that take very little time to enjoy even let alone spending countless hours on the Pathfinders. If I can't enjoy an interest on the toilet, then I dont have time for it. Thats the only free time I have these days. I'll try and get photos up of components, and vehicles in current state, but need to drive to where they are and take pictures, then I'll upload them here. But as it stands, I'm not parting them out guys. Sorry but I just can't. Not only do I not have the time to deal with that, but if i do, I'm left with stuff I can't get rid of so All or Nothing. Lots of great components though. Hell, buy them, take what you want and sell off what you don't and part them yourselves if you've got more time then I do and you're likely going to have a lot of these parts for free.

Awesome thanks, that’s what I was hoping This is the one I’ll most likely go for https://www.carparts.com/details/Nissan/Pathfinder/Replacement/Grille_Assembly/2001/N070101.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=9089238399&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-af6BRC5ARIsAALPIlUtShFHmvJ1XQFmCshPGTZKD3uc891BF419i9ec1fVGfsoSin_u9b4aAmzNEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

All post facelift grills are the same mounting. I had an 03 SE but swapped to the honeycomb no problem. Just try not to break any of the plastic clips when removing the grills.

Anyone know whether the grill from an SE will fit an LE? I’m thinking it probably should as long as it’s a post facelift R50, but not sure. My grill is peeling and cracking and looks terrible, and I love the look of the SE grill so it would be nice if it fit

That part is simply a metal brace to provide backup support for the splash guard. It's not terribly important if you choose to remove it, and it's probably preferable to replace the splash guard and the brace with a genuine skid plate such as this one: https://sfcreation.com/products/front-skidplate-14-aluminium

Ditto

I'm running 255/85r16 BFG KM2 on mine. The skinny tyre is great for 4wding but does compromise road handling. The wider 285/75r16 tyre would be better onroad. I also wouldn't recommend the KM2 unless you really want to go 4wding as they're very noisy. KO2 would be a much better compromise, or even a more road biased AT like the AT3. I wouldn't mind a V8 (couldn't use much more fuel than v6) but they never sold them here.

Damn nice looking R50 brother Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A couple weeks ago I was able to strip down an R50 bought as a parts truck that was headed off to the JY that afternoon. Since I expect to have my truck another 10-15 years, some of this will be replacement parts if needed. I plan to use some of the trim pieces to experiment on where & how to place mounts & to attempt to reclaim some of wasted space in the body walls. Finally, it was a great opportunity to just dissect the interior & see what was under everything. I took a ton of reference photos for the future. You can imagine how excited my wife was when I came home....

Finally got my diff back from the shop all new bearings and races, also the speed sleeve was worn. I installed most of it today just working on my old backing plates, since they are impossible to find, plus I can never justify the shipping. Lots of patience and looking back in my photos. I also re loomed the speedo cable with some braided stuff. Next project is doing the braided loom to the entire engine harness, lots of connections and fun! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry for the delay all. Been on sick leave pretty much since around the time i picked this thing up, not fully sure whats going on but i tested COVID negative so thats good still. On to the R51. Here's the photos from when i picked it up, had a good 2 hour drive home when i picked it up which gave some good learning to the overall characteristics of the vehicle and showed some of its problems. On that drive discovered some of the wheels could use a balance but thats fine as i planned on replacing the tires anyways not sure what i want to do for that - Had Cooper ATW's on my QX4 and they were great, now deciding if i want to stick with those or "upgrade" (read as spend more) on falken wildpeaks AT3W or BFG KO2's. And i also learned the AC has a bit of a leak inside the cabin some condensation but theres a tsb for that i saw and just need to buy a little hose. Next day i drove it to work and noticed my rad was leaking. This was actually a good thing to some extent as i could smell coolant when i bought it but they washed the engine bay so i couldnt see where from. I was happy it was leaking at the top seam as then i could throw a brand new rand in and know that my tranny would still be safe for now. Fast forward another couple days and a CEL for P0455 and P0456 together and alternating, just to play it safe i got a new gas cap - didnt help but was cheap and easy - and then replaced the evap canister purge valve with one from rock auto and so far haven't driven a ton since but no light as of yet. I also did some other maintenance items such as a new air filter, rear glass struts, wipers, had the dealer before i picked it up (for free) do a serp belt and front brakes. The last bit of maintenance i did was polishing up the headlights as they've used a bit of help. Oh and the wheels got some bad corrosion ill need to take care of. Moving on to mods i wouldnt really say i have done anything yet waiting on some money as being on sick leave has delayed some things for now but I saw complaints about they headlights so i decided to try out some new more expensive headlight bulb replacements and went with the Sylvania ZXE's. I wouldnt say in person its a huge difference but there is some improvement - in the photos though you can really see the temperature difference. I have an old light bar and some pod lights ive been considering throwing on but dont want to block the front bumper as im not fully sure as to the v8's cooling capabilities, and have been wanting to do ditch lights but RAGO wasn't the greatest informant if their frontier brackets would work or not. I have not yet ordered the SfCreations body lift as again just waitng on a little bit more money but have beem watching to see if other people are doing it - I think i would be the first v8 to try it and im curious as to how no lower fan shroud would effect anything (if at all), Lastly for a little bit of personalization i did essentially in the toyota world the Raptor light mod and threw some ambers in the grille. Easy to wire up together and mounted with some small zip ties, do power them i wanted to use a fuse tap but couldnt find any locally of the mini ATO's so instead i just tapped into the passenger side corner marker for power and straight to battery for ground. Big photo dump Day i got her Headlights before: Headlights with the ZXE: And lastly with the amber's installed:

Pics time! Got the bullbar, winch, driving lights, foglights and new UHF antenna installed. My other car (Subaru Omega touring wagon, or the NZ version of the GL/Loyale with the rear raised roof) Don't mind the dent in the fender... that was part of the carnage from Lake Daniels... along with ripping off both bumpers, destroying the right side step, and cutting the fuel pump wire getting towed off a root... remind me why I go 4wding again...

Went for a proper run on some private land out at Thomson's Flat with the Land Rover club this weekend. Pathfinder went fairly well on the 33s, better than my old terrano on the same ground. Much like the terrano though, I caught the rear bumper on the exact same obstacle and had to remove it. Not much holding it onto the r51! Just two bolts and a few screws plus clips down the sides. I also got a bit brave and completely destroyed the right side step on a big tree root. Unfortunately I got stuck on it and had to get towed off backwards. This cause the front mount on the side step to get rotated, which in turn damaged the wiring loom to the back of the truck. It completely cut the wire to the fuel pump, and blew the fuse too. Had to do some Bush wiring to get the truck going again! And replace the fuse. Thankfully it drove home as it would have been a long slow tow down the river out (several kms down a rough riverbed) and then a trailer home from there. So, a few mods to come. Bullbar and winch are here, just need to fit them. Then I need sliders and a new rear bar too. And front suspension. Also need to do the dual battery setup and fit a new airbox. Time and money...