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Finally got tires one day before A 700KM trip! 32x10.50x16 Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

I got it running like 2 days after, but the font end issues I haven't actually, I've just been driving it slowly haha. It's actually going into the shop today!

And of course had to take some post-200k pictures. Hitting 200,000 miles in hyalite canyon is definitely something I’m never going to forget. Such an awesome spot for it to happen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hit the big 200k on Saturday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also here is my rig:

Taking what I learned from the last SAS build, I decided that I wanted to Straight axle swap the 12" green pathfinder. So far I picked up the axles, links, heims, and started to build the cradle. The end goal is to make it street-able, so I won't be cutting corners to save as much money as possible like I did on the last SAS. Hopefully will be picking up a set of coilovers and a set of air shocks tomorrow. Here are some pictures of the progress. Here's the front axle, out of a 00 F350 Here's the rear axle, out of a 02 f350 Here's the metal that will become the cradles sides and the motor mounts Here's the little plasma cutter I got on amazon for 190$+-. It cuts 1/4 pretty well I'd say. Only down side is that having a smaller compressor, I have to stop frequently and let it fill up. Drilling Holes for the 4 link This is what is inside the cradle sides before getting welded and trimmed up. Here's the finished product before paint. Once the sides are on, Ill tie them together.

The directions are for you to remove your bump stops - that said, I did not as I wanted them to still be there in the case of failure.

Going by an online backspacing calculator, looks like those wheels should give you about 3.5" of backspacing. In general, 3.75" is the magic number to clear the struts with bigger tires up front. Some people have cleared with up to 4.25" that I've seen, depending on tire width and such. In your case, with those wheels, your tires will be sticking out a tad more than the 3.75" backspacing would allow, so you're good there. To get another metric converted into a unit that's simpler, those tires are equivalent to a 33x10R16 (again going off an online calculator). Those are pretty narrow, so YMMV compared to what I'm about to say from my experience. With my R50 I had 3.75" backspace wheels (.25" more than you, so .25" further tucked in) and cleared 32x11.50R15 tires on the front strut with a bit of room to spare. In the rear however, with stock shocks and bumpstops, the tires interfered with the rear arch a fair bit. Doing rough math here, your tires will stick out 0.5" less than mine (taking into account the wheel backspacing and tire width difference), so I don't think that's enough of a difference for you to avoid the same rubbing issues I had. Frankly I don't think you're going to get around that while having enough backspacing to clear the struts up front. Best solution that I see is to just run that combo and plan to extend the rear bumpstop, either with an entirely different one from another vehicle, or more simply using a 2" thick by 3" diameter body lift spacer and a longer bolt to push the bumpstop down, thereby making it impossible for the tire to contact the arch. You can add some longer shocks out back to more than get back the articulation you're losing in uptravel. TL/DR: Yup, it'll clear the front struts just fine. Gonna rub the rear arches when flexing though.

He said they work well. Good for going from the trail to the road. I just bought some I will let every one know

#r50obsessed #NISSANNORTHAMERICA #infinitinorthamerica Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

@KiwiTerrano is correct. However I dropped my Sub Frame 6" I did not want any angle on my CVs at all.

You’ve got to be careful following@TowndawgR50 Especially when he lets the dogs drive!

The 6 piece kit is going to be the winner here. IIRC, the “Death Wobble” is usually cause by bad bushings within the trailing arms. Was able to fix mine on my old truck by just replacing the upper, but both should be done. Poly bushings are great and all, but if you don’t think it’s worth your time and you see some rusty bits, probably better off just replacing the parts. 4x4parts.com has a bolt kit for $47 for the rear trailing arms. The OEM ones can be a real pain so it’s definitely a good idea to have em.

Little update since I haven’t been on here in forever. The very next weekend after wheeling with Tyler I went and hydrolocked my car because I never got around to relocating the inlet hole of the air box after my plastic wheel well liners got ripped out Got flat towed home and realized I must have broken an axle too because my front end would hop all over if I was in 4wd. Also lost all my power steering fluid and ripped all 4 cv axle boots and both rack and pinion boots. I got it running again a couple days later and pulled it back into the driveway (pics for comparison of how much taller it is than stock) It drives fine at 25 around town (parking lots suck without power steering) but it needs a lot before it’s gonna do anything besides drive around town. Both of my rocker panels are super smashed and have large rust holes in them so I’ve been thinking about cutting them out and welding in a piece of 2x5 square tubing that will double as rockers and sliders. Also if anyone wants to buy the tan one let me know Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk