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I love my O'Reilly lifetime warranty new axles (not remanufactured from old cores). They come fully greased and assembled with the outersnap ring. Before I installed my SFD, I was running 2" spacers and went through 3 CV axles for the price of 1 thanks to the warranty. Two of them due to CV bind and 1 to a ripped boot. They have worked great since fixing the suspension geometry and have seen lots of HD abuse with my 6" setup, a combination of towing and off road use. The lifetime warranty guarantees the axle for as long as you own the vehicle and its as simple as bringing in the old unit and swapping for the replacement. No hassle, no fuss and no shipping. The lifetime warranty from local parts stores on high wear parts is a great investment in my opinion.

Thanks to everyone on this forum/thread. Here’s my first mod after 8 years of ownership OME 2928 Fleury +1” KYB GR2 KYB Strut mounts OEM strut bearings LR NRC9449 Bilstein 5125 (29”) Before: On old,tired, saggy and blown suspension Loaded for camping and weighing in at 5480lbs After: No more rubbing on 265/65r17 at this height. But now I need more tire. Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thought I'd consolidate some notes, since a lot of people run wheel spacers and seem to want/need longer wheel studs. As mentioned in another post, I replaced the front studs on my 2004 Pathfinder SE with rear studs, which are 3/8" (9.5mm) longer, to run 1/4" wheel spacers. Summarized from Dorman's catalog (link) and cross-referenced at RockAuto (and sorry if this table comes out all jacked up): Dorman Knurl Diameter Thread Under Head Length RockAuto Application P/N in mm in mm 610-240 0.512 13.00 M12-1.25 1.260 32.00 87-04 Pathfinder (front) 610-320 0.505 12.83 M12-1.25 1.634 41.50 87-04 Pathfinder (rear) 610-403 0.508 12.90 M12-1.25 1.791 45.49 93-95 Infiniti J30, 93-98 Nissan Quest 610-295 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.476 37.49 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-507 0.512 13.00 M12-1.50 1.764 44.81 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-410 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.811 46.00 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-409 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 2.205 56.01 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda The options above should allow running a 1/2" spacer up front (use J30/Quest studs), and 1/4" at all corners (610-410 up front and 610-409 in the rear) with a different thread pitch. I think most people are just running spacers up front, though. If you pair the longer length studs to your wheel spacers (i.e., 1/2" longer for 1/2" spacers), your stock lug nuts will work, but I recommend longer (and/or new) lug nuts anyway. You'll obviously need them if you change thread pitch. Longer nuts are not to increase thread contact, but instead so the wheels can be installed if the spacer needs to be removed. Stock nuts are acorn style and either 29mm or 35mm. Not shown above is knurled shoulder length which, for the most part, is negligible. The wheel hub thickness and wheel nut seat depth will consume all of this, even without a spacer. However, some could be too tall without a spacer (possibly 610-409 with a 1.14" shoulder). Should length should be at least the thickness of the wheel hub, so double-check the Dorman catalog. If you have steel wheels, the material at the nut seat is likely also thinner than aluminum wheels, so keep that in mind, too. Studs and lugs at all corners is about a $60 project and a few hours of work. I used a $15 ball joint separator from Harbor Freight to press the lugs out, and an open-ended lug nut (Dorman 611-065) with a thick washer to seat them. The front wheel hub assembly will need to be removed from the truck. For the rear, a big hammer and a drift punch should unseat them (but it's been a very long time since I did this on my Frontier). You'll obviously want to confirm your particular application, but hopefully this is a good starting point.

Based on the image you provided the splined portion of the axle shaft has completely come apart from the flexible joint, which also has a splined portion that remains in the hub, presumably with the outer snap ring in tact. You need open the hub, remove the outer snap ring then remove the flexible joint of the CV axle thats still attached to the back side of the hub. At that point you can assess if the inner snap ring has broken or there is any other damage which resulted in the CV axle coming apart.

Color choice is [emoji91][emoji91][emoji91] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is why I stick with the clutch fan. It works and has never let me down.

On Sunday, when heading up into the hills to do some shooting with my daughter, had my fans give up on me. Saw the temp at hot and couldn't hear the fans with the engine off(have the controller set to run on temp even with the engine off), so opened the hood to see what was going on and found the relay was gone out of the controller. Thought that's odd, had a spare that I put in and the fans tried to jump out of the engine bay. Pulled the relay and took a look at the fans and found both were missing a blade and chunks out of the rest. Guess 20 years was about the limit for the Maxima fans I installed. Stuck the relay back in and let the paint shakers tear themselves apart to get back home. New fans arrived today, so have that fun project to do when I find a few hours to pull the radiator to get the broken fan assembly off and build the replacement. Hard to get motivated on all the work I have to do on my truck. After 9 hours a day of working on other people's cars, working on mine just isn't very interesting to me anymore.

Looks nice! Hopefully you don't get a little out of control like I have, lol. Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

For something like that its functional with no added work so im happy. Only ill notice it so it can just bug my ocd lmao. Thanks

If I recall correctly, new CV axles don't come with a new snap ring, so you may need to acquire one if yours is indeed missing. You You should be able to pop the hub cap off (~1.5" diameter cap in the middle of your lug studs) and wipe down the grease and look. Obviously if your axle slid out it's probably missing, but maybe it's still in the cap? Worth looking.

haha yeah they squeeze in. Nah i keep all the stuff in the back tightly packed in a box and the stuff in the front fits in the center console, glove box, and behind the seats. I actually left some stuff out like my muck boots and ratchet straps, among other things. If i ever get around to building a new sound system then i'll have to rethink what all stays.

Heck yea man. I appreciate that. Ive been this way my entire life. If either of the R50's get the least littlest dirt on them it bothers me to the point that i literally think about it till i clean it. Lol sad huh? Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

I'm gonna resurrect this thread to keep all the numbers in one place. I went searching and I found that Ichiba makes Some extended wheel studs that should FIT our vehicles. P/N: NS-122555S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 55mm long P/N: NS-122550S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 50mm long P/N: NS-122545S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 45mm long The best price I have found on these is http://SNCtuning.com, presently $2.69ea and also the most reasonable shipping for my location. I plan on using the 55mm on both my trucks to give me 13mm more rear stud than I had before. I'm going to order up a set and do studs when I do my brakes.

Popped by the paint shop to check on the Troutfinder and it was done, so I brought her home and put her back together-Mostly! Complete color change. Color is Thunder. Toyota color from the 2018 Toyota 86. Pre-pictures are over in the Garage forum. Really like the outcome. It came out Sick! More of the blue comes out when in the shade as can be seen in some of the pics. They were supposed to leave the decals off of the back. I was gonna paint them flat black or just leave them off. Gonna have to prep them and spray them black now! Daylight was running out, so I still have to put the rear tire, jack and rod cannon back on. Although I'm debating the cannon or switching over to an awning. Next up: -Put the interior back together -Build custom slim line nerf bars from stock mounting hardware. -Cleaning and painting the under carriage black including visible exhaust piping, accenting some pieces in Red. -Detail the engine and engine compartment-Blackout with Red accents.

thanks for all that! got the 9448s and 29” bilsteins and i love the way it drives now also that looks way better too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jwt makes some pretty sweet cams as well. Supposedly they’re one of the biggest bang for the buck mods. Headers would help and aren’t too pricey. Then exhaust and a snorkel to let her breathe