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Swapped the front ends on @ferrariowner123 1996 and the Pines to Spines 2003 today. He graciously donated the 2003 last year to @hawairish and I with the request that we swap front ends at some point, which he and I knocked out this afternoon. All body parts and lights bolt on with only the hood latch on the 2003 and wiring for the lights on both rigs needing some modification. The 2003 uses 9003 series headlights and has the corner/turn signals combined where the 1996 has separate signals and corner lights and uses a 9004 series headlight. With both rigs present and @ferrariowner123 's electrical knowledge it was a fairly straight forward job to swap and modify the plugs to get everything sorted out. The fender flares do not swap over and have to travel with the appropriate fender but once paint matched shouldn't be too noticeable. All in all a neat project with both rigs fooling you at first glance.

Purchased mounts for the sliders, going to have a local shop do the job. Cleaned my throttle body and MAF, which took care of a recent warm start stalling issue I had, same as @Bax03SE. Also may have tightened up my shifting? That or placebo effects got the best of me. Next up Power valve screws and CV axles (torn boots). I also have a sleeve on my rack and pinions that is torn, which @02_Pathy is highly recommending that I fix.

02_Pathy and I installed my LR9449 springs last night. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The one customer image on that doesn't inspire confidence! Hopefully your mice don't like spicy food. Strangely (not that I'm complaining!) the mice here seem to leave wiring mostly alone, with the exception of the one spark plug wire. Otherwise I'd be skipping right over the hot pepper tape and looking for something infused with cyanide or mouse ebola or something.

Very nice!

Fix shmix, run it into the ground! Nah, seriously though, good progress! Take care of those next couple steps you've got planned and you'll be set real well.

Easy way to tell is to look at the oil filter. The oil cooler is the oil filter adapter. If the filter threads onto a can that has 2 hoses attached to it, then you have an oil cooler and the o-ring seal is probably leaking. It is very easy to replace the seal. Take the filter off, put a deep socket onto the hex of the filter stud and unscrew the filter stud. Pull the cooler away from the engine and replace the o-ring. Reassemble by threading the filter stud back in and tighten it down. I suggest degreasing the engine and just let it run for a little while without actually driving to see where the oil is leaking from. The most common oil leaks on the VG and the VQ engines are the valve cover gasket and the oil cooler. A commonly missed oil leak on the VG is the camshaft bore block off plate on the back side of the heads. The bolts tend to loosen over time and the gasket gets hard so that the oil will flow out the back of the head. It is often mistaken for a leaking valve cover gasket because it is up high and hard to see.

Turned on the vents and shredded Kleenex came out. Lifted the rear seat and found a mouse staring at me. I suspect the little bastard got in through the (formerly) rubber part of the transfer case shifter boot, then ran up into the dash through the floor vents. Long story short, there's one less mouse in the world, the truck got a good vacuum, and I made a surprisingly decent-looking shifter boot from part of an air mattress. (Probably would've looked better if I hadn't used the part of the mattress with the inflation instructions printed on it.) Hopefully that keeps the rest of them out.