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It’s a whole herd! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Throwback to just after I had the front end rebuilt and fitted my custom recovery points

Poor boys rear tire carrier. Just mocked up t this point. Going to need to do a little work to get it better stabilized. Gonna figure out a way to mount my jerry can holder on it too. A project for another day! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Just another day at work with the Quey. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

Stock springs are soft, but they still shouldn’t be bottoming out over speed bumps unless you’ve got several hundred pounds of weight in the back. Before messing with the springs I’d investigate everything else in the rear suspension. Get under there and start pulling/shaking everything you can get your hands on to see if anything is loose. Check both upper and lower trailing arms, the sway bar end links, and even the spare tire to make sure it’s nice and snug. I suspect the sound you’re hearing is something else that is loose or worn out and not the actual springs bottoming out.

Thats odd. I have had no issues with my OME HD front coils and I have a heavy steel plate XJ front bumper. I received about 1.75" of lift with them and have run them since 2015. No problems or major settling after many miles of highway and tough off road driving.

I had OME HD up front, which should be rated for more weight than my bumper and winch since the tube bumper really wasn't terribly heavy, and the rear was OME MD. I had a 1" front spacer and 2" rear. Despite this, I had about 3 inches of rake. From how the vehicle sat, it seemed to me that the OME coils weren't capable of supporting nearly the weight they're supposed to. Honestly it was probably an inch better than stock but nowhere near the lift the rear offered. If you were stock weight I'm sure they'd be much better, but I'm not convinced as to how they hold up long term (rear was fantastic though).

Yes, on my prefacelift r50 the shocks make the hypotenuse of a right angled triangle, which allowed me to use trigonometry to calculate the maximum shock length for my springs.

And it’s also worth noting that the shocks don’t go straight up and down, so the higher up you go, the more your shocks can be extended beyond the height given by the lift

Everything gone!

At least where I need the clearance, the fog light isn't really an obstacle. Its more to the outside of the fog light where the fender flare wraps back towards the tire. I could just hack the fender edge forward a little fwiw, but I kind like the idea of giving the bumper some additional style if im gonna do that!

Yes. I'm running Ironman 35 mm lift springs which are 400 mm in length (rear). I have procomp ES326500 shocks which are 15.94" compressed and 27.07" extended for travel of 11.13" This is basically the longest shock you can run for several reasons. Firstly, the compressed length is barely short enough for the bumpstops to work properly & avoid ruining the shocks at full compression. Secondly, if the extended length were any longer the springs would drop out. I did some trigonometry to calculate the max shock length before purchasing. For a 400 mm long rear spring, maximum length from the centre of the bolts on either end of the shock is 27". Otherwise you will have problems with spring retention, and the compressed length of the shock cannot be greater than 405 mm or so (16"). Preferably <400 or <15.9". I am pushing the limits on both compression and extension with these shocks, but the results are worth it. If people are running a front subframe drop and are prepared to extend the rear bumpstops to allow for a shock with a longer compressed length then of course you can run a 29" extended shock. I have built my truck to flex as well as possible with minimal lift. I have attached a list of various rear shock options, OEM replacement and various aftermarket. Shocks.xlsx

Ya, nrc9447 is probably a half inch shorter in lift height. Thanks for the correction.

Glad they made it!

To maintain a 2” lift and get load handling, your cheapest option is LR (Land Rover) springs, part number NRC9446. Get them off of LRdirect.

Stock suspension is exceptionally soft, even with a smoother bumpstop you'll still have the issue of bottoming out all the time. If you're open to the idea, I'd highly suggest lifting it with some aftermarket/firmer springs.

Here's some more inspiration. The cut in the 3rd reply seems the most possible to replicate on a QX4 bumper without totally trashing it IMO. https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/183205-pics-trimmed-front-bumpers.html

That's my speed here with the cost! Not a bad option honestly if I wanted to keep the bumper intact. Any idea on where I would anchor those to in the bumper from the liner? The liner I'm cool putting holes in but I don't want to run those through the actual bumper. I saw that one the referenced kits had plates to fill that gap. The other kit and the DIY version of the article said to either remove the liner itself or modify the liner to the new bumper. The one I saw on the road just cut the liner and left the inards exposed. I have looked at both wam and coastal bumpers. They both look like good options to me, although cost would get close to getting a bumper custom made (with a winch would be nice). That current cost would cut into necessary parts of "Phase 1" list. Still need manual hubs, a full size spare and tire, and roof rack to haul the tire. That's pretty much exactly what a bumper would cost me. I will for sure have to keep an eye on what hawairish and Towndawg are working on. I'm happy to be patient to see what they will be coming out with, as Phase 2 will include a swing gate, bumper, and more optimal suspension setup. Cheap is the name of the game for now. To be as capable as possible for as little money as I can get away with.

Just wanted to say a huge thanks to bax03SE for these springs and spacers. They’re in pretty much brand new shape and I couldn’t be happier to have them. Especially at this price point!! Lol

As a suggestion. Some Bike Carriers use springs on each side of the post attached to the hitch section to assist in bringing it back upright.

Also towndog is the man. He also did welded my sfd back then. Awesome dude.

I bought this from Amazon for ~$60. It’s made for JKs but spans the facelifted tire carrier nicely just inboard of where the bars thicken. It will need to be welded on (Thanks[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention]). There are multiple versions out there but this one is about the cheapest and the build quality & powdercoating are good quality & appear identical. I might have mine on in a week or two. It’s about 8# plus the weight of the Hi-Lift. I have my concerns regarding the weight but figure I’ll only have it there for rare technical trips. I can’t store mine on the rig long term since it sits in the ever present rain here & getting it up & down off the rack has always scared me a little (I so see that cradle popping the cargo area glass panel). This site is super easy to put on, take off, secure & is essentially out of my vision as well.https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DCN7FYG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

Not to be argumentative, but simply to point out there’s differences in taste, I like the amber corners. In fact, I intend to put more amber on my truck (Raptor mod & maybe front & back running lights on rack). Unless you’re murdering out your truck (as above), I don’t get the clear corners. Honestly, I don’t even get it much in cars. It’s a European thing, not really a Japanese, Australian or American thing. In fact, some places put extra amber lights on the sides of the front fenders (secretly, I kind of like it because it reminds me of my Z). I also kind of like the bright amber running lights in Toyotas. That said, truly to each their own. I may just need to start an Amber Support Group (Oh, maybe Amber Anonymous), I’m starting to realize I might actually have a problem. I don’t dislike the clears in trucks, it’s just not for me. Also, I get that it’s an easy mod to do to just do something and I’ve certainly made changes for that reason alone too.

[emoji106] I wish I had that knob! Up & down temp buttons are like up & down volume buttons on a radio - SUPER annoying, inconvenient & arguably less safe. [mention=39745]stpickens[/mention] will be glad to know you have an ‘03 LE. He’s the only one in the PNW group & was feeling lonely. I told him hawairish had an ‘04 but I think his is an SE.

@TowndawgR50 did the same & then repeated it 3 times this last month for us. It works well. Smittybilt Jerry Can Holder. Consider putting in a CB tab while you’re at it. I’m contemplating a vertical Hi-Lift carrier as well.

may 2015 after install sfd install front rear before after 2 inches coil spacer lift vs sfd 6 inches lift. both are my rigs. 245/75/16 vs 235/65/15

This is where I left it for the night while the paint dries. I’ve got a few more details to figure out in the morning, and should hopefully get it finished up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They’re taking over the neighborhood! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup what@PathyDude17 said, OME HD (settled) and 1 inch spacer and thanks man! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk