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My current Nav setup. Will likely drop the Nuvi, especially once the new head unit goes in with Waze. Add my phone to that magnet mount with Google Maps & I could have 4 maps running at once - probably too much!

Its not mine, but going through Nashville today on my way to Memphis spotted this beauty. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

Yes, thank you. Would definitely rather go that route. I know how meticulous those two are with their rigs

Doesn’t it strike anyone as ironic that the emissions inspector is failing you because you have too MANY catalytic converters? He understands the goal is LESS emissions right?

I just replaced the whole trailing arms that I got from RockAuto, I didn't feel like pressing out the old bushings but I kind of regret not putting poly bushings in. Now that @TowndawgR50 and @hawairish are making parts for our rigs I might upgrade to their trailing arms. Also if you use poly bushings they could squeak more if they're not lubed with grease so just FYI on that. The Moog rubber bushings I used are quiet until they go bad again

97 Q 98 Path Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

Me too, I was gonna comment on that exactly! The style of the interior in these rigs matches the black and wood grain combo nicely.

No plates?

although i am running a sfd, it wasn't related or installed because of the sfd. it was a lift i built, mocking an f150 crossmember drop lift. my diff is dropped 9-10" total. the only thing i ran into was the trans support crossmember. i notched it out a little bit and then the driveshaft cleared fine. depends on the type of suspension you are running

It’s worth noting that it may compromise safety in a front impact as it likely inhibits ejecting the drivetrain components down & away from the passenger compartment. I’m not saying you shouldn’t do it, just pointing out pros & cons.

Junkyard is your best bet

Yep, that’s why my truck has been sitting untouched in the garage for a month. Why the flex seal? I just did mine in stainless. REALLY interested in your idea of a fold down table on the tire carrier. Please post a write up. We are about to do 4 post facelift swingate retrofits up here in the PNW &!I would LOVE to put a fold down table on more mine!

Anyone else have the problem between work, weather and the old lady you cant get a damn thing done on your truck? Trying to get things started and finished within an hour these days. Master and slave cylinder are pulled off and new ones ready to go in. Gotta wait for tomorrow morning to wake up earlier just to finish the damn job that should be done tonight. Been dipping d rings in flex seal that I plan to mount in the cargo area along the side walls to tie down ice chest and camping @!*%. Traced out tire carrier on cardboard to finally make my damn table. All of this is on back burner, next weekend is the old lady's birthday -_- this is why summer is better, good weather and longer days to work

Alright, can anyone help me hammer out the viability of this idea? I've read (I think) every thread on this forum pertaining to a diff drop on an R50. I'm aware that @fleurys has looked into this, and I'd be interested to know what he learned. I've also heard @KiwiTerrano vaguely mention a 1" drop. Most impressively, I've seen @system_f make 3/4" drop brackets. I'd be very interested in getting something like that. Least appealing, I've also come across the idea that a diff drop bushing kit from a same year Xterra will work on an R50. There are also a few other vague or dead end mentions of a successful drop fabrication. It seems like a diff drop in the .75-1.25" range would be very desirable for all of us running the various 2-3" lifts, and based on the success of such products on other IFS vehicles, I would love to at least see some pictures of what these drop designs look like, especially how they look and function when actually installed. Maybe I’m wrong, but other than the difficulty associated with accessing the differential, this seems like a simple and cost effective way to help bulletproof a "smaller" lift against CV problems. Anyhow, thanks in advance for all your help

Definitely a key point, hence the reason it would be a desirable fix to lower the LSV, than to raise the spring mount. More work, definitely more work, but possibly more accurate. I’ll have to put some thought into that one

This information is great. I am very thankful for all that you wrote. Based on what you said, you have basically described my driving habits. The temperature is in the thirties and i drive 2-3 mile commutes to school early in the morning. I am very grateful for this piece of mind I was getting a little worried. I dont think I will escalate the situation because I think what you first said about the influx of oil being swooshed around and gasoline entering makes since considering my situation. Also seems a bit low mileage for a blown head gasket. I will keep you posted on any new information I gather. Thank you very much sir! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just as another bit of supporting evidence, Here’s some pictures from when I rebuilt my engine. The first picture is when I was taking it apart to clean it and replace the timing, the second is after. Look at the timing stuff and rear timing cover and you’ll notice loads of the dark brown dust/gunk. It was just oil residue that had been burned onto the aluminum over time. The engine was otherwise perfectly healthy. It’s a normal thing as engines get older, and this VQ was at 186,000 miles when I did this teardown. Now its bordering 200,000.

Jumpstarted@Buttercup

Redone the clock install on my 97 Quey. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

It's not really that bad. If you've done a lot of car work it should be pretty straight forward. Just make sure you have a balancer puller. Also make sure you triple check the tooth count before reassembly. The first time I did one it took me 6 hours but now I can knock them out in like 2-3 lol.

Fantastic engines, horrible to work on. Get ahold of a factory service manual PDF, and start reading up on the procedure to see if it’s something you want to do yourself. I was blown away that the dealership quoted me $2000 to do my engine timing on the VQ... I did it myself and rebuilt my engine while I was in there for $1200, but even timing alone took over 8 hours to get to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Parts companies to avoid: Dorman, mevotech, cardone, moog (used to be good but now is crap). If I have to get aftermarket I try and use beck/arnley as half the time it’s an oem looking part in the box. Or ACDelco as their parts are usually okay. Ive never had a bad oem part from Nissan, or VW for my golf. The way I look at it is, if it’s something that will leave me stranded, I’m willing to pay the extra cost for the part that lasted 20+ years. Just been my experience working on cars for 15 years and owing a pathfinder for 14 of those.

Out & About in Mount Baker NF last week.

Finally got out on the trails yesterday, been way too long since I've been out wheeling Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk