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Finally had some free time so I just drove on some forest roads, and I low key like the moon dust grey [emoji23] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

As a follow up, I went through on this approach to the missing link. Definitely added some sturdiness to my ride, and I’m very pleased with it for what it cost

Does the VG35 have a MAF sensor? If so I’d try to clean it or replace it. I am a little more curious about a possible intake leak. Not from improper gasket or installation but from a crack in the manifold. Look very closely with a bright light everywhere that you can see near #4. So you’ve got new plugs, coils, and injectors.. there’s not much left to look at. Check the contacts in each connector. I wonder about the injector bleeding fuel into #4.. so is the issue intermittent or can you reliably cause the issue over and over? If it’s the latter, see if the issue is less severe following a shorter time with the engine off and more severe following a longer time with the engine off.

I've been slacking in the update department! Two weeks ago I successfully installed the front/rear suspension lift, honestly ran into just about no problems. I'm really lucky in that this vehicle has just about no corrosion so everything came apart easy. Thanks to everyone on the forum for providing a ton of info to allow me to prepare ahead of time! Front comparison with KYB struts (P/N 335031/0), KYB mount/bearing/boot replacement (P/N SM5329), and OME HD springs (P/N 2928). Rear comparison with KYB OEM size shock (P/N 343379) and Land Rover Defender springs (P/N NRC9446). Step 1 was build a little mini-workbench with scrap wood from the 'ol Depot. New goodies piled up ready to go on: Old front suspension (no pics of new assembled, just imagine much cleaner :P): While I was in there I threw in new CV axles, SUPER easy on this vehicle. Old OEMs were torn so I may rebuild them as back-ups. Camber bolts, I don't know if they needed them for the alignment, but figured might as well install 'em. New rear shocks. Had to get crafty with jack stands and jack to install the rear springs. Ended up disengaging the sway bar links, differential breather tube, and the trackbar from the knuckle side. This pic specifically is showing the set-up required to get tension off the trackbar bushing so I could get the sucker back on! At some point I took a break and threw some new #74 LEDs into the gauges and #196 into the license plate lights. Took maybe 15 min. Sorry I don't have any level side pics. I might take them later. I did get to test the suspension a bit out getting stuck on some forest roads near Leavenworth, WA though. 4x chains and 4Lo got me pretty far before my lack of recovery gear or back-up vehicles turned me around. So what's next after New Years? -trunk drawers to maximize organization -low pro basket mount -360 degree fog lighting to basket -new tires (currently 29" A/T, maybe 31" A/T?) And a smidge further down the line: -custom rear tire carrier off of trailer hitch Let me know what you think!

I think I remember reading something about replacing the PCV valve and it helping it but I added some Lucas oil additive stuff last oil change and it helped with the burning, mine burns quite a bit

Yep! 3/4” EMT. I used a vice one time on each end to flatten out about 3” per side. I also painted it, but couldn’t get a picture of it into my post

Time has come again and during my favorite season of them all! Will be back in hawairish’s shop again over the weekend. Have some really exciting stuff planned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The voltage regulator is in the alternator. I found that overcharging can also be caused by old oily brushes in the alternator and the voltage regulator can be fine. If you are really handy you can replace the voltage regulator yourself. But if you need to keep your truck in service, I would pull an alternator at a junkyard, get it tested, and then put it in. You can take your old alternator to a rebuild shop to be properly cleaned and diagnosed. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

These are some nice little vids. Definitely will steer my filter choice in the future. Probably do the OEM for $5. It’s a nice touch that it comes with a crush washer. I ran Mobil 1 & tried to change every 6,000K but it often ended up more like 8-10K. When they opened my engine at 106K, the cylinders still had crosshatching & the interior was pristine. They said it was the nicest looking engine anywhere near those miles they had ever seen.

Some shots from a November trip to Anza-Borrego and the Salton Sea. Great time, but pretty sure it accelerated my control arm bushing disintegration...

That is true, my apologies for being all gung-ho to get you out and back in the Pathfinder... I had forgotten that Nissan went to the e-speedo in late 1992 ( early '93??). I ... I jjust wanted to feel the love of being in the cool kids group again .... I miss my Pathfinder.

Great day at Tahuya with the PNW folks. Big thanks to MicahFelker for organizing today. Good to meet you all.