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Me too (and I know how they turned out!). He’s probably still recovering from the weekend! He got to experience firsthand the marathon workload his brother and I did the last time the truck was in my garage...despite having “only” three things to do this time around (shocks, springs, compressor), it was far from being simple installs. We put in some really long hours, I felt pretty bad with how long all the mods took, but the end result seems worth it and I think the community will be pleased by the work. I got some pics, but I’ll wait for him to show-and-tell!

I've been looking around a lot since I started this post and narrowed it down to the Midland 75-822 that hawairish has or the Cobra 75WXST. I like the look of the Cobra, reviews say people complain about the sound so the Midland looks better. I like hawairish's installation in the center console.

As you may know, I've owned my 1998 QX4 for about 18 years, I'm the 2nd owner. It was a daily driver hauling kids around, driving all over the SouthEast and basically we just ran it through automated car washes. I drove it to hunting camp sometimes. Then it became the 3rd vehicle with some problems and then it started being neglected. Now I've decided to keep it and I've been working on it. It's running well and I've cleaned it throughly and fixed a few things here and there. I wonder how the 20 year old OE paint will shine? I washed it well today and I'm bringing it inside to run the full paint detail job on it - starting with a clay bar, the a sealant, and finally a high quality wax. We'll see how it goes. It's hard to adequately see how dull the paint is right now and it feels awful. The pics below show some dullness. As for how it feels, find some sheet rock in your house and run your hand across it - that's about the same.

Replacing the injectors will only get you clean injectors. it won't really "help" with emissions as that is controlled by the ECU getting signals from the O2 sensor, IACV , EGR and the MAF and adjusting fuel supply and timing in relation to what the parameters in the fuel map state is "correct". Best thing is to run new plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor, new battery and everything with a perfect ground to bare metal; paying special attention to the MAF sensor wiring's additional ground. BARE metal is what you want. Now it'll pass smog, THEN you can throw down for new injectors! As far as modding the ECU, there was a guy on the west coast in BC who was suggesting that he was going to write up a different fuel map for the Path but that ended with an open ended thread and no more updates in the last three years. So unless you want to spring for a Jim Wolf ECU ( go for it!) there isn't much to be done to the ECU and little information exists here for any mods. You'll need to track down a tuning shop that works with Nissans... I suggest that Haltech in Austalia is a good place to start, they at least have Nissans that they work with on a regular basis.

Hauled a trailer loaded with a little over a metric ton of floor tiles up to the house from the highway. We needed it in the basement, and the driveway doesn't go to the basement, so I went the "fun way" up through the yard. Low range is a wonderful thing! Also readjusted the front bearings, because they felt a bit loose. Didn't solve the front-end clunk it's developed on turns. Everything looks tight up front, but something clearly isn't.

I might not be the best at lifts, welding and custom bumpers, but I'm good with detailing. My plan is: 1. Clay with Meguiars G1016 Smooth Surface Clay Kit2. Wash with blue Optimum No Rinse3. Seal with Jescar Power Lock Blue - wait a day4. Wax with Collinite 845 - Wait a day 5. Wax with Collinite 845 - Wait a day

Back to Cali we go, cheers to [user]hawairish[/user] on many more meets and trips to come! Learned a new lesson called F*%# Pneumatics in a quick 4 day 50+ hour class. Final result was really really good, artful in a sense. Updates to come. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah... I went with 260/70/17 which if I remember correctly is the equivalent 31.6 and a two inch lift with some manual hubs

Looks a lot better, now to find some nice fenders!

Those are awful close. Maybe 32s are big enough... Thanks for sharing the video.

Got a hood from a local Pull-A-Part for $40 had to have one where the paint was in good shape. Luckily enough they had one same color to boot. Mine you can tell the entire hood clear coat is gone, it's also gone on the top of both front fenders. The pictures tell the tell. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

That is certainly doable, but I'm not sure on exactly what you'll have to do; I did 32's with a custom bumper so I don't know the details for running 33's. All I know is if you want to run bigger than 31" you'll need to either get wheels with less backspacing (shoot for 3.75") or get some wheel spacers.

First of all, you'll have to cut pretty much everything to make 35's fit with a 2" lift. Now, as far as mods needed got a 2" lift, all you have to worry about is the camber bolts. The rest isn't needed until you go higher. Steering shaft only needs extending when you do an SFD, brake lines and brake sensor should be ok (although brake lines are easy enough to replace with OEM parts from other Nissans; @hawairish knows the details for that) unless you go 3 inches or more, and CV angle will only be an issue with over 2" of lift with spacers at full droop. With a spring lift like you seemed to suggest you're planning to get, you shouldn't have any issues with CV binding since the suspension still has the exact same range of travel as before, it's just that the CV will be at a higher angle more often so it'll wear out quicker than normal; they should still last a good long time, but for under $200 you can put your mind at ease and reap some other benefits with some manual hubs.

The click/no start (at least in auto-trans models) is usually the ignition switch from what I've read. I recently had a slow cranking issue and a no click/no start that I thought was a worn-out starter, but the replacement did the same thing until I replaced the ignition switch as well. Unplug the signal wire for the starter (grey plug, attached to a bracket on the side of the starter or dangling nearby if the last person who had the starter out didn't have time to mess around with the stupid bracket) and can hook up a test lead to the side coming from the starter. If the engine cranks poorly on the ignition switch, but cranks properly when you touch the test wire to battery +, the solenoid isn't getting the power it needs from the switch. The switch itself (not the lock cylinder) is cheap and surprisingly easy to swap out. (You can also hotwire it right from the ignition switch by bridging the black/yellow and black/white wires, which may be easier than getting to the starter wiring, especially if the bracket's still there.) The hard starting once it is turning over does sound like an idle control issue, but I doubt the idle screw moved on its own. More likely an idle component isn't working for some reason. I solved a stalling-at-lights-once-warmed-up problem on mine by cleaning the plug for the IACV (tower-looking deal at the driver's rear of the motor) and re-bending the female pins a little because they were loose. You might also have a look at the plug for the other idle valve (the IACV-AAC), which is the one with the screw. I'm not sure why there are two idle valves, but there are. Also make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. Doesn't sound like it's the starting issue but it's easy to check, and worth a look if the issue started when you swapped the battery.

What he said. It's a screw on the back of the intake manifold on the drivers side.

IACV?