Leaderboard

IT RUNS ON all 6!!!! I installed the new injectors and it runs like it is supposed to....except for an exhaust leak on the "secondary cat" on the passenger side. I say that in quotes because they are not cats, but just baffles on my pathfinder. When I get back from a fun weekend on the lake it will be rear suspension and brakes time. My only hold up is the front wheel spacers which shipped yesterday.

This is an awesome thread that inspires me. I replaced my front struts and rear shocks about 80k ago or so. I keep the OE springs. Now I'm at 200k and sagging a good bit I assume. With a load the hitch is almost on the ground. In fact I'm sitting at 31.5" from the ground to the front fender flare, 30.5" in the rear, and 28" tires. I was parked on an incline so those numbers may be a little off, but stock is 32.09" in the front and 33.31" in the rear. Looks like I'm sagging a couple of inches all around. I'd love to give a lift and run some bigger tires, nothing crazy but a little something. It would take 2" to reach stock height and then maybe I go another 2" after that. That would be 4" total. Would 2" over stock cause me to have to worry about damage to the axles, extending brake lines, or any of that extreme stuff. Sounds like NRC9448 would give me about 4" lift in the rear, right? OR, would that give me a 6" lift from where I am now with my sag?

I've got a snap on 1000 series 4 box set full of things I rarely use. But when I need it it's there! That is at least when people that borrow them bring them back! The only problem with having a lot of tools, friends think I run a loaner company!

I got nuthin.

For the rear springs you'll have to disconnect your shocks and panhard bar and let the axle droop all the way and you can pop the stock coils right out and wedge the new ones in with a bit of leverage (having a friend to help is nice). Shocks are easy, just line up the holes and slide them on. Then tighten everything up, throw the panhard rod back on, reconnect the diff breather tube, throw the wheels back on and you're good to go. The front is a royal pain to do. First, remove the strut from the car which is pretty easy, just take out the camber bolts and slide the abs and brake lines off the strut, then remove the top 3 bolts and pull 'er on out! Before you take everything out you'll need to go get a spring compressor. O'Riley's lets you borrow one for free. You'll need to compress your stock coil until it separates from the top hat, then you can undo the top bolt underneath the rubber grommet that hold everything together, slide off the top hat, and slide the coil out. When you remove the spring compressors, do it evenly from side to side, otherwise the spring can blow out and bend the compressor and seriously injure you. The next step is to compress the new coil, which is the worst part. Try to get the coils of the spring as close to touching as you possibly can, and then try to get the top hat assembly back on. There is a flattened part of the threaded top of the strut and a matching flat spot in the hole on the top hat, make sure they line up before you force it on so you don't strip the threading like I did my first time. Again, this is way easier with a friend since you really have to force that top hat on with the new stiffer spring in there that won't compress as much as easily. When I did it I had my friend hold the top hat down while I threaded the nut on. Once it's fully threaded on, it's safe to remove the spring compressors. You'll have to turn the top so that the arrow/notch thing is facing the right way. Once the strut is assembled you can throw in back in the rig. The camber bolts need to be oriented a specific way which I kinda forget, I know Xplorx4 knows. As far as torque spec goes, just do it the old german way "gudentite" (good and tight) lol