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I've got an '89 service manual on Dropbox. EL-70. Hatch guts should be the same AFAIK. If it doesn't match up, let me know and I'll check my paper copy of the '87. I screwed around with the linkage in my rear hatch once, maybe ten years ago. It wasn't acting up, I was just curious and in the neighborhood anyway (messing with the switch for the rear dome light IIRC). I remember the mechanism being a little more complicated than I had expected. IIRC the wiper has two resting positions, and only one of them hits the switch that allows the electric rear hatch popper to work. If the manual doesn't get you there, let me know and I'll open mine up and remind myself of how it's supposed to move. Do not adjust anything until you know how it all works. The switch did not likely adjust itself between when it worked and when it didn't, so messing with it will probably just make more work for yourself once you find what's really wrong. This sounds like a wiring fault to me. I would check the wiring between the hatch and the body for broken wires and cracked insulation. Could explain the burned fuse link and the motor getting power when it's not supposed to. Failing that, I would check the wipers in the motor that keep it going back to its home position, but it sounds like you did that already, and I would not have expected those to take out a fuse link. And, yeah, wouldn't hurt to check the switch as well, though again I don't think that would've killed a fuse link.

I removed the rear panel, and was going to upload a video (17 seconds) of the rear wiper at work, showing the motor, switch, and mechanics at work. However, it would not let me upload a video, so I'll try to describe it. I did see a single mechanical switch that appears it should be pushed in when the wiper arm returns toward the rest position. However, the mechanical arm that rotates around never actually touches the switch. I thought for sure this was the problem, but even if I manually push the button on the switch and hold it in for a couple of revolutions, the wiper never stops. I did try it in all positions of the rear wiper dash switch, just to be safe. I'm not sure why whis would be, unless I'm unlucky enough to also have the dash switch never actually telling the motor to shut off, or if there's a short/open somewhere. In any event, it seems I have a problem with the switch by the motor not being activated. Does anyone know how to adjust the mechanical arm so that it would activate that switch? If you could see the video, you would see that the wiper arm doesn't actually go all the way down to the rest on the returns. That might relate to why the switch is not being pushed in. Actually, as I'm looking at the video closely, I can see there is some adjustment possible for the switch itself. I'm not sure there's enough play in the mounting to allow the switch to be activated, but I'll check that out more closely tomorrow. I'm also not sure why the switch would have moved/need adjusting? Is there also an adjustment that can be made on the rotating arm? That seems more likely in need of adjustment, since it's in constant motion when the wiper is on. Assuming I can get this sorted out, then it still seems I have a problem, since the wiper doesn't cut off when I manually depress the switch by the motor. If I had a pinout of the connector that plugs into the motor, and an explanation of how it works, I could at least eliminate any issues upstream of the rear wiper and motor. A pinout of the switch itself would also be nice.

Thank you for the offer! Please see this thread: Wiring diagrams pertaining to the rear wiper (switch and motor side) would be very helpful. And of course, any specific advice you have on this problem as well.

Hi everyone, I have a 1987 Pathfinder (SE) and the rear wiper will not shut off unless I remove the fuse. I had assumed perhaps the switch on the dash was bad, as the wiper goes the same speed whether it's in the intermittent, off, or on position. It will actually release wiper fluid if I push it all the way to the right, but other than that, the wiper does not react to the switch position. I did access the rear wiper switch on the dash, and pulled it out. Wiper does not activate with switch removed. I took the switch apart and looked it over, and it looks pretty simple. Springs for the contacts looked good, and the contacts on both the slider and the plug end looked clean, so no obvious issues. I don't have the pinout to test this, so if anybody has that, and/or the pinout on the rear wiper motor side, that would be awesome. My guess now is something to do with the wiper motor. I'll plan on taking the back hatch cover off to take a look. If anyone can direct me to a pinout for the connector there, I'll check out the different switch positions to make sure all looks good on that side. Then if that checks out, I guess it's down to the motor itself. I understand there is a contact in the wiper motor that tells it when it reaches the stop/rest position. Perhaps something is wrong there. I do notice that my wiper never goes all the way down to the rest bar, but I was thinking this was normal during operation, since the wiper blade is beyond the window pane when it rests on the rest bar. I guess the way it's supposed to work is that once the switch goes to the off position, then the contact should send it farther down past the window to the rest position, once it's triggered (and the switch is in the off position). Perhaps the contact is bad? If anyone can confirm whether the wiper should go fully to the rest bar even during operation, or only once the switch is in the off position, that would help. And if there's a procedure to adjust the wiper arm or motor contact, that would be very much appreciated! I should mention that this problem seems to have occurred at the same time that I had a fusible link burn up. The truck was operating fine (according to my brother who was using it), when power to the instrument cluster was lost. The truck continued to run fine, and he continued home with the truck, and let me know what had happened. I turned the ignition on to verify, and the rear wiper immediately came on, and I smelled a burning smell. My brother said the rear wiper was not running for him, though it's possible he just never noticed. I pulled the fuse to the rear wiper, but continued to smell the burning smell. When I looked under the hood, I could see a fusible link that had pretty much burned through. I've since replaced that, and the instrument cluster seems to be operating fine. I no longer smell the burning, and the fusible link does not seem to be getting hot, although I"ve not operated the truck for very long since. The rear wiper continues to run continuously, unless I pull the fuse. I cannot be sure that the fusible link issue is related, but it seems coincidental, so I wanted to put that information out there. Thanks for any and all help!

Woah awesome!!! Thanks for the info. So I don’t need to change anything out for the lift kit I can just put new shocks? I guess I should look up how a lift kit works I really don’t know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m in the same boat. I did it in 2006, but now 18 years later I’ve only added 85k miles. I just realized the other day that it’s prob been too much time, even if I’m still within mileage.

Everyone usually use KYB shocks and struts to replace their worn-out components and these are going for cheap on RockAuto here's a discount code 26541693695688324. You can also use the Bilstein 5100 Series https://amzn.to/3V3UdMN for the rear since you have a lift, but it will require some modifications to run these shocks on the rear of your R50. Chris.

2000 Nissan Pathfinder got blown ass suspension. Need new ones. Also need fromt axles… let me know. Located in SF Bay Area in Cali. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I need new shocks but have a 2” AC lift. Do I need different size/type of shocks? I was hoping to find some cheap used ones that are still decent but not sure what to look for. Thanks. -Logan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have never found a timing belt time interval from Nissan, but it looks like other manufacturers spec less than ten years (some as low as five). Probably best to swap that belt out before it realizes that 2004 was 20 years ago.

back! 3k rev limit means it's in limp mode. I've got an '89 service manual on Dropbox, EF&EC section is your friend. Start by running codes.

Mine is plumbed like this: transmission cooler supply line --> stock cooler in the radiator --> external cooler --> Magnefine filter --> transmission cooler return line. Probably would've made more sense to put the filter before the coolers. Some folks here used to recommend bypassing the stock cooler in the radiator. They were said to clog up. I haven't heard anything about that in a while, and suspect that dying transmissions were clogging coolers, not the other way around. My transmission was fairly new when I did mine, and I figured more coolers is more better, so I'm running both. I don't think I've heard of one of these having the Strawberry Milkshake Of Death issue that the R51 Pathfinders often did (failed cooler mixing ATF and coolant into an expensive mess). Here are three old threads about how to mount a cooler and which one to use. Unfortunately the pictures on the last one are long gone, but the discussion may still be of some use to you.

Sounds like it's in good hands! Hopefully it's an easy fix. And yeah, not like Redpath's crank! That's what I was afraid you were gonna find.

The reason I am asking is because the previous owner changed the timing belt in 2004 at 100,000 miles, but I am only at 165,000 miles currently twenty years later. According to manual the timing belt should be changed every 105,000, so according to that I still have 40,000 miles to go. Nothing is mentioned about age of the belt in the manual, however, and it has me wondering.

Hopefully they don't find any of this...

Can some one please provide some help on the correct choice concerning the trans cooler issue I keep reading about with these trucks. I'd like to get ahead of any problem and take care of it right away. What do need to do exactly? Thank you

I love it when a plan comes together! Glad it was something simple, and that you have the wherewithal to get the timing belt done now!

hey guys, been almost 4 Years since I've bothered to touch the forum but I bought another two door! has a 99 quest large snout VG in it and I'm having a TBI issue. won't rev past 3000 rpm, can anyone give me the run down on codes and diagnostic? much help appreciated!! -keeyinn89pathfinder

I may be a lucky sumbitch. The garage where I had it towed called later and said the bolt holding the harmonic balancer had backed off due to an incorrect washer being used previously. They are replacing the woodruff key and hardware and I'm having them do the timing belt water pump and front seals as well. Good opportunity to inspect the timing gear key. I lucked out that the garage is independent and has a 13 year Nissan master tech on staff who geeks out over our old trucks haha. Thanks, I sent this to the mechanic. I'm sure they'll be tired of me bugging them by the time it's all over haha. I'm not capable of the engine swap myself and having a shop do it would probably break my bank account, luckily it sounds like I won't have to make that tough decision yet!

Yeah, that's not good. Could be the key, though I'd be surprised if it just freewheeled with that busted. I've also heard of VG30 cranks breaking between the timing sprocket and the balancer. Hopefully it's not that. Grab the pulleys and see if the whole deal just comes off. I've heard of people welding and grinding a damaged keyway, or welding in the key, or using JB weld or Loctite and trusting the crank bolt's clamping force to do the rest. I don't remember if any of these methods worked, but I do remember seeing a few mentions of repeat failures. These may have been from people installing a new key in a wallered keyway without doing anything to stabilize it, though. And yeah, if the crank turns out to be buggered, might as well get an upgrade out of the job. The 3.3 crank snout is bigger. This is a good thing, but also a problem--it's why you need to run the donor's belts/accessories, or get an adapter to run the V belts, because the 3.0 balancer won't fit over it.

That sucks, and is the kinda "freak" occurrence that would make me wanna swap in the VG33 engine, but that comes with it's own cans of worms, too! (Go for it if you can easily get a replacement engine!) And you've probably already seen this thread?

Sorry, cross posting for more visibility: Currently sitting on the side of the highway with my 87 waiting for a tow truck. First the power steering cut out which prompted me to pull over. After I pulled over I noticed the temp was getting really hot. With the engine still running none of the accessory belts or pullies were spinning, I couldn't see if any were broken. Does this sound like the about key issue? Timing still seems ok but I haven't started the truck since pulling over. What are options for fixing if this turns out to be the issue? Upgrades available for a stronger snout key? Also wondering on the feasibility of a VG33 upgrade instead of rebuilding this guy. It's a bummer because this engine was otherwise in amazing shape and running beautifully, probably better than my newer cars. Still has the cylinder crosshatching.

Currently sitting on the side of the highway with my 87 waiting for a tow truck. First the power steering cut out which prompted me to pull over. After I pulled over I noticed the temp was getting really hot. With the engine still running none of the accessory belts or pullies were spinning, I couldn't see if any were broken. Does this sound like the about key issue? Timing still seems ok but I haven't started the truck since pulling over. What are options for fixing if this turns out to be the issue? Upgrades available for a stronger snout key? Also wondering on the feasibility of a VG33 upgrade instead of rebuilding this guy. It's a bummer because this engine was otherwise in amazing shape and running beautifully, probably better than my newer cars. Still has the cylinder crosshatching.