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Thanks a lot for the suggestions, I'll try to do a little more tomorrow when the weather is cooperating better. You mentioned a fuse blowing and another circuit, and it made me think of something else that I should have mentioned. I remember after replacing the fusible link, turning the ignition on to test things. Everything seemed normal, but I noticed that my power locks were not working. I pulled the fuse (10a, as I recall), and it was burned. I replaced that fuse, and the locks returned to operating normally. I didn't think about it again until your mention above of a blown fuse and another circuit, and it rung a bell. For sure, the fusible link did look quite old and there was noticeable corrosion around the terminals. From the looks of it, I do believe this had been replaced one time before, as it was clearly not the stock connectorized fusible link that is shown by Nissan (Nissan part #24021-V5112). Maybe the replacement fusible link was undersized? I'm not sure what gauge that fusible link should be, but I think I read somewhere it was 16 gauge, but I wasn't sure this was right. I used 14 gauge based on the size of the terminals/spade connectors, but that was just a guess. I actually would have guessed 12 gauge, but I was afraid to go with too large of a fusible link and defeat the purpose. This is the fusible link that powers the instrument panel (i know just because nothing on the instrument panel was working), and based on the blown fuse, I guess the power locks as well. I don't know if this same fusible link ties into the rear wipers, but I guess that might make sense with the switch being on the dash. It looks like there's a connector right there by the switch for the glass hatch, so I should be able to disconnect the switch easily enough, and open or short the connector and check the voltage on the white/blue wire (pin 9 of connector 211) easily enough. If that solves the problem, then I'll know it's the switch. I'll let you know what I find. Many thanks again for all your help! I'd be like a blind squirrel here without your advice.

Black at 211 is indeed ground. Blue/black should have 12v when the key is on and the wiper relay is not energized, so that sounds right. White/blue should have 12v power with the key on and the hatch glass closed, so, yeah, 9.1v says you have some investigating to do there. It gets power from the same place blue/black does (green/red), so you know the wire coming back from the dash is OK. I would check the glass hatch switch (in the latch). If it's closed, but you're only getting 9.1v after it, yeah, something ain't right. Test for the missing voltage across the switch. If the switch is open, and you're seeing 9.1v after it, it could be backfeeding power from elsewhere in the circuit. I don't know that it should be doing this, but I also don't know that it shouldn't. If white/blue gets 12v when the hatch is shut, I would note the weird voltage but not chase it unless I run out of ideas or something else makes it make sense. If it's 9.1v regardless, that's a problem. I would expect this problem would stop the wiper, not make it run constantly, but I don't know how the amp works. I guess in this context "wipers" is vague as hell, sorry about that. I meant the contacts in the motor that keep it powered until it reaches its home position. There's a little metal finger that spins with the wiper crank, and a C-shaped track that it runs on, with the gap at the home position. So if you turn the wiper off when it's not in its home position, this setup is what keeps it powered until the wiper is home (and the finger finds the gap, breaking the circuit). Looks like this switch hooks to black (ground), blue, and blue/black. It's the pac-man looking thing under the motor symbol in the diagram on EL-70. The pulsed power you're seeing on blue makes me think this is probably OK. EL-91 shows where the amp and relay are located. My money's still on a wiring fault, but, yeah, I wouldn't be shocked if it took out the amp, too. The thing that's confusing me is how it took out a fuse link but left its own 10A fuse intact. That makes me think another circuit may be involved--and, yeah, depending on what shorted to what, that might've screwed up the amp. Or maybe the fuse link was just old and corroded and failed under normal load, though I'd be surprised if under-voltage took out the amp. I would be tempted to give the wiper amp a good thwack with a screwdriver, on the off chance that frees up a stuck relay contact and brings it around--but I would be surprised if this fixed it.

I did another check at the motor itself- with the wiper running, I checked the voltage from ground (black wire) to the blue/black wire- this read a pretty constant ~11.9v, and did not seem to fluctuate with the arm position. I also read the voltage on the solid blue wire at the motor, and this voltage definitely fluctuated, mostly being at 0, but spiking each time the wiper arm went toward the stop/return position. I only have a multimeter and no o-scope, so I can't tell exactly how high the voltage spike was, but it looked to be north of 10v, so I would say it probably reached ~12v and my meter just wasn't able to capture it. I checked this same voltage on the blue/black wire at the relay, and it also read a pretty constant ~12v. While I was at the relay, I also checked all the pins coming in to make sure there were no shorts to ground at the relay, and I found none (except ground itself, of course). I'm thinking this means my motor is good, but please correct me if I'm wrong. The problem seems to point to either the amplifier, or potentially a wiring fault somewhere. I suppose it's possible the same fault that caused my fusible link to burn could also have damaged the amplifier at the same time. I'm guessing that amplifier is in the side panel on the driver's side. Do those plastic panels just pop out, or is there some trick to it? P.S.- I'm not sure my Pathfinder matches exactly your diagram, as except for the one unused pin it shows on the motor connector, I have wires connected to all pins on the connector, while the diagram from your manual seems to show 2 unused pins on the left side of the connector in the diagram. i'm not sure that's important, or if those wires are really used, or just extra unused wires.

I'm looking at the diagram a little more, and what I wrote above, and something else is bothering me as well. I read 12V on pin 9 (black/blue wire) of connector #211, but I note that the switch will short pin 8 (ground) to pin 9 in the on/interval positions. This seems like it would be problematic too. The black/blue wire also originates from the rear wiper amplifier, if I'm not mistaken. I'm going to check the documentation you gave me to see if it gives some explanation of the pinout, and what exactly each of the wires control (inputs vs outputs, function, etc.)

Update- using the wiring diagram you gave me, I checked the switch, and it operates as it should with the switch in all the various positions. So I'm confident the issue is not in the switch. While I had the switch out, I went ahead and checked some voltages on the connector coming into the switch (conn. # 211). From the diagram, i could see pin 8 (black wire)= ground, so I used that for my ground (please tell me if I'm mistaken here). Pin 9 (blue/black wire) read 12V, and the rest were all close to 0, except pin 1 (white/blue wire), which read 9.1V. Something seemed obviously not right there, unless that line just floats when not connected. Following the diagram back, I see the white/blue goes through a few connectors, but eventually comes from the rear wiper amplifier at connector #48. I was unable to locate this amplifier, so I can't check the output there, but my guess at this point is that this amplifier may be the problem, since the white/blue wire seems to originate from there. If you can tell me where this is physically located, I can try to verify further. I did find the rear wiper relay, and checked voltages there. Using the black wire on connector #118 as ground, all voltages read 0 except the 2 green/red wires, which both read 12v. If I disconnected the relay and read the voltages again at the dash switch connector #211, then I got 0V everywhere (except pin 6, if I recall correctly, which gave some small voltage reading of 0.1-0.2V). I did confirm the mechanical switch I was looking at before was the back hatch disable switch, that apparently only gets pushed in when the wiper arm goes all the way down to the rest bar. Am I on the right track here, or do you have some better suggestions for me to try?

Thank you for your help! I've printed out the relevant pages, and will take a look at the signals coming to the motor. So the switch I saw was likely then the hatch switch that you're mentioning. I'll try to remember to verify that. If that's the case, then I expect it only gets activated when the wiper fully goes to the rest position (resting on the rest bar), which only happens (or should) when it is shut off. Then there must be another switch/contact somewhere then that notifies the motor when the wiper gets to the stop/return position (close to the edge of the window, as opposed to the rest bar). You mentioned the "wipers in the motor that keep it going back to its home position". I'm not sure exactly what you're referring to there, so I'm not sure I did check that out. I'll do some more investigations and report back what I find. Thx again!

I've got an '89 service manual on Dropbox. EL-70. Hatch guts should be the same AFAIK. If it doesn't match up, let me know and I'll check my paper copy of the '87. I screwed around with the linkage in my rear hatch once, maybe ten years ago. It wasn't acting up, I was just curious and in the neighborhood anyway (messing with the switch for the rear dome light IIRC). I remember the mechanism being a little more complicated than I had expected. IIRC the wiper has two resting positions, and only one of them hits the switch that allows the electric rear hatch popper to work. If the manual doesn't get you there, let me know and I'll open mine up and remind myself of how it's supposed to move. Do not adjust anything until you know how it all works. The switch did not likely adjust itself between when it worked and when it didn't, so messing with it will probably just make more work for yourself once you find what's really wrong. This sounds like a wiring fault to me. I would check the wiring between the hatch and the body for broken wires and cracked insulation. Could explain the burned fuse link and the motor getting power when it's not supposed to. Failing that, I would check the wipers in the motor that keep it going back to its home position, but it sounds like you did that already, and I would not have expected those to take out a fuse link. And, yeah, wouldn't hurt to check the switch as well, though again I don't think that would've killed a fuse link.

I removed the rear panel, and was going to upload a video (17 seconds) of the rear wiper at work, showing the motor, switch, and mechanics at work. However, it would not let me upload a video, so I'll try to describe it. I did see a single mechanical switch that appears it should be pushed in when the wiper arm returns toward the rest position. However, the mechanical arm that rotates around never actually touches the switch. I thought for sure this was the problem, but even if I manually push the button on the switch and hold it in for a couple of revolutions, the wiper never stops. I did try it in all positions of the rear wiper dash switch, just to be safe. I'm not sure why whis would be, unless I'm unlucky enough to also have the dash switch never actually telling the motor to shut off, or if there's a short/open somewhere. In any event, it seems I have a problem with the switch by the motor not being activated. Does anyone know how to adjust the mechanical arm so that it would activate that switch? If you could see the video, you would see that the wiper arm doesn't actually go all the way down to the rest on the returns. That might relate to why the switch is not being pushed in. Actually, as I'm looking at the video closely, I can see there is some adjustment possible for the switch itself. I'm not sure there's enough play in the mounting to allow the switch to be activated, but I'll check that out more closely tomorrow. I'm also not sure why the switch would have moved/need adjusting? Is there also an adjustment that can be made on the rotating arm? That seems more likely in need of adjustment, since it's in constant motion when the wiper is on. Assuming I can get this sorted out, then it still seems I have a problem, since the wiper doesn't cut off when I manually depress the switch by the motor. If I had a pinout of the connector that plugs into the motor, and an explanation of how it works, I could at least eliminate any issues upstream of the rear wiper and motor. A pinout of the switch itself would also be nice.

Thank you for the offer! Please see this thread: Wiring diagrams pertaining to the rear wiper (switch and motor side) would be very helpful. And of course, any specific advice you have on this problem as well.

Hi everyone, I have a 1987 Pathfinder (SE) and the rear wiper will not shut off unless I remove the fuse. I had assumed perhaps the switch on the dash was bad, as the wiper goes the same speed whether it's in the intermittent, off, or on position. It will actually release wiper fluid if I push it all the way to the right, but other than that, the wiper does not react to the switch position. I did access the rear wiper switch on the dash, and pulled it out. Wiper does not activate with switch removed. I took the switch apart and looked it over, and it looks pretty simple. Springs for the contacts looked good, and the contacts on both the slider and the plug end looked clean, so no obvious issues. I don't have the pinout to test this, so if anybody has that, and/or the pinout on the rear wiper motor side, that would be awesome. My guess now is something to do with the wiper motor. I'll plan on taking the back hatch cover off to take a look. If anyone can direct me to a pinout for the connector there, I'll check out the different switch positions to make sure all looks good on that side. Then if that checks out, I guess it's down to the motor itself. I understand there is a contact in the wiper motor that tells it when it reaches the stop/rest position. Perhaps something is wrong there. I do notice that my wiper never goes all the way down to the rest bar, but I was thinking this was normal during operation, since the wiper blade is beyond the window pane when it rests on the rest bar. I guess the way it's supposed to work is that once the switch goes to the off position, then the contact should send it farther down past the window to the rest position, once it's triggered (and the switch is in the off position). Perhaps the contact is bad? If anyone can confirm whether the wiper should go fully to the rest bar even during operation, or only once the switch is in the off position, that would help. And if there's a procedure to adjust the wiper arm or motor contact, that would be very much appreciated! I should mention that this problem seems to have occurred at the same time that I had a fusible link burn up. The truck was operating fine (according to my brother who was using it), when power to the instrument cluster was lost. The truck continued to run fine, and he continued home with the truck, and let me know what had happened. I turned the ignition on to verify, and the rear wiper immediately came on, and I smelled a burning smell. My brother said the rear wiper was not running for him, though it's possible he just never noticed. I pulled the fuse to the rear wiper, but continued to smell the burning smell. When I looked under the hood, I could see a fusible link that had pretty much burned through. I've since replaced that, and the instrument cluster seems to be operating fine. I no longer smell the burning, and the fusible link does not seem to be getting hot, although I"ve not operated the truck for very long since. The rear wiper continues to run continuously, unless I pull the fuse. I cannot be sure that the fusible link issue is related, but it seems coincidental, so I wanted to put that information out there. Thanks for any and all help!

Woah awesome!!! Thanks for the info. So I don’t need to change anything out for the lift kit I can just put new shocks? I guess I should look up how a lift kit works I really don’t know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m in the same boat. I did it in 2006, but now 18 years later I’ve only added 85k miles. I just realized the other day that it’s prob been too much time, even if I’m still within mileage.

Everyone usually use KYB shocks and struts to replace their worn-out components and these are going for cheap on RockAuto here's a discount code 26541693695688324. You can also use the Bilstein 5100 Series https://amzn.to/3V3UdMN for the rear since you have a lift, but it will require some modifications to run these shocks on the rear of your R50. Chris.

2000 Nissan Pathfinder got blown ass suspension. Need new ones. Also need fromt axles… let me know. Located in SF Bay Area in Cali. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I need new shocks but have a 2” AC lift. Do I need different size/type of shocks? I was hoping to find some cheap used ones that are still decent but not sure what to look for. Thanks. -Logan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have never found a timing belt time interval from Nissan, but it looks like other manufacturers spec less than ten years (some as low as five). Probably best to swap that belt out before it realizes that 2004 was 20 years ago.

back! 3k rev limit means it's in limp mode. I've got an '89 service manual on Dropbox, EF&EC section is your friend. Start by running codes.

Mine is plumbed like this: transmission cooler supply line --> stock cooler in the radiator --> external cooler --> Magnefine filter --> transmission cooler return line. Probably would've made more sense to put the filter before the coolers. Some folks here used to recommend bypassing the stock cooler in the radiator. They were said to clog up. I haven't heard anything about that in a while, and suspect that dying transmissions were clogging coolers, not the other way around. My transmission was fairly new when I did mine, and I figured more coolers is more better, so I'm running both. I don't think I've heard of one of these having the Strawberry Milkshake Of Death issue that the R51 Pathfinders often did (failed cooler mixing ATF and coolant into an expensive mess). Here are three old threads about how to mount a cooler and which one to use. Unfortunately the pictures on the last one are long gone, but the discussion may still be of some use to you.

Sounds like it's in good hands! Hopefully it's an easy fix. And yeah, not like Redpath's crank! That's what I was afraid you were gonna find.

The reason I am asking is because the previous owner changed the timing belt in 2004 at 100,000 miles, but I am only at 165,000 miles currently twenty years later. According to manual the timing belt should be changed every 105,000, so according to that I still have 40,000 miles to go. Nothing is mentioned about age of the belt in the manual, however, and it has me wondering.

Hopefully they don't find any of this...

Can some one please provide some help on the correct choice concerning the trans cooler issue I keep reading about with these trucks. I'd like to get ahead of any problem and take care of it right away. What do need to do exactly? Thank you

I love it when a plan comes together! Glad it was something simple, and that you have the wherewithal to get the timing belt done now!