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Does yours have the cable throttle, or the drive-by-wire? I'm assuming cable given the drive by wire doesn't have/need an idle valve. If it is drive-by-wire, be careful cleaning the throttle body--I've heard of them going into limp mode and refusing to come out again if the computer notices a sudden difference in air flow. If it's the cable throttle, the IACV has a common issue where it leaks coolant internally, shorts itself out, and blows out the driver mosfet in the computer. Something to look into and check on while you're in there. Some info on that in this thread.

Hey guys! Recently my pathfinder has started idling really low (around 400-500 rpm) and almost stalling out, particularly when I have the air conditioning on. It isn't a constant thing as it will randomly happen every once in a while but today it did it more than once and now I feel like I should fix it before it gets out of hand. I saw that a possible culprit could be the idle air control valve so I plan on cleaning it out with some throttle body cleaner to see if it improves. If that doesn't do anything any ideas on what else it could be? Thanks a bunch for any responses!

I see a lot of R51 Pathfinders for sale here in Tampa, Florida but they aren't as well maintained or set up for off-road as I had access to in TN so thought I'd search here. I'd love to find '05-'12 less than 140k miles. Prefer the dark grey or stone (gold/tan). Won't be able to do anything from the salt belt states unfortunately. Prefer stock but I'll be adding accessories so not a big deal if modded. I don't have a specific price range but reasonable market is fine and I'm extra interested and would love to pay more for something well maintained. Thank you for your time.

I'll take a deeper dive into that when I get to it. as long as the belt is covered BC laws don't care about hole in hood so im fine with that. I should be good I'm gonna reuse one of the OG map/baro switch in the vacuum piping and use it as my SCB valve. It seems to be the same and even part number I think so wiring 49 on the SCB should work like original. 1 other guy that did it to his qx4 but I don't think he swapped ECU and his just piggy back. With my ECU swap im expecting full proper OEM style performance with no downsides compared to my 97. I was thinking of doing a write up on how I did it and what you need to make this happen in an R50 and surprisingly, not as much work needs to be done as you would think. I thought it was impossible but now after more research and having all the parts its gonna be easy I'm hoping to have it done by mid June, granted my cams and radiator show up by then. Cam guy is slow and Ebay seems to also. oh well

You might have to do some fiberglass work on the hood, but it shouldn't be too hard I would think. I have a complete 2002 Xterra SE SC parts rig if you need anything that won't cost an arm and a leg to ship from Ontario.

What @Strato_54 said is completely accurate, rockauto is your best bet, or tested used ones off ebay or the JY. I deleted your duplicate post.

Rock auto has reman and some new off brand ones that are decent just don't get the cheapest of cheap sometimes those aren't that great. GB stuff is pretty good from what I've heard never tried it personally though Also, you only need 1 post you don't need to add to multiple sections of the forum

Anyone know a reputable place for new injectors for WD21 V6?

Also, any Ideas on how I can cover the hole I will have to drill in my hood and not make it look stupid? I might try and give my hood the same bump the xterra has but im not sure yet. still got a way to go before I get there though

Well I just got back from pick n pull and have an 02 xterra ecu and the plug. I just cut it out of the vehicle but have enough I can probably just solder to the SCB wire. The charger and everything was already gone out of the car so no SCB valve I also didn't get a whole donor car just the vg33er long block on market place like 300+km away. Shout out GFSS auto shop the kids did great pulling that engine lol. The wiring does seem to be similar it's just the over all plug layout that changed. Based on the ECU pin out sheets on both the 97 and 02 xterra they share the same sensors and the voltages seem to all be the same too so I should have no issues with that. The crank and accessories however.... I think i'm going to see if I can swap my pulleys to be able to run my factory PS, Alt and AC but with the ER pulleys. not sure if it will work yet just an idea but if I had to run the ER accessories oh well. Definitely going to be one of the only people with a boosted Pathfinder, let alone an SC swap. I've only seen old posts of people talking about it but never actually followed through. I have the parts, I just need the time and the rest of the know how! Im also still waiting on the Cam shop to finish my VG30 cams so with those and a charger, it should make some pretty good jam and I'm very excited!

ECCS is not a separate component, it's just what Nissan called the whole engine control system (computer, injectors, sensors, the lot). The "ECCS control module" is just the ECM. There's an ECCS relay, controlled by the ECM, which sends power to the injectors, the cam position sensor, the MAF, and one of the evap valves. That diagram's on EC-11 of the '97 manual. I don't know what model/year your donor is, but the '02 Xterra diagram looks quite similar, except that they renamed the ECCS relay as an ECM relay, and it doesn't control the injectors anymore. IMO the deciding factor is gonna be how much stupid stuff like that Nissan changed between the two computers. Compare the pinouts in the service manuals. Hopefully they're close enough that you can get away with a little repinning. Maybe steal a few pins from the donor connector to get that boost solenoid hooked up. I remember My1Path doing something similar to put an M30 ECU in his WD21, but I don't think I've heard of anyone doing it on an R50, so you may be the first pig through this chute. If they're stupid different, or the connector itself is different, or you're planning to hot rod the engine past the donor's original power, then the Megasquirt might be the way to go. My personal favorite is Automatic Speed Control Device, aka cruise control.

Hello, im planning on doing some pretty custom work to my rig in the next few months - year and am still at the beginning stages of what Im planning. However, what is ECCS? Ive figured out its to do with the ECU and how it controls engine components. but is this some fancy separate thing or is this another case of Nissan trying to be different with their wording? (MAP, nah, Absolute sensor!) Basically i'm swapping ECU and am wondering if I need to run the ECCS wires to something other than the ECU to make my harness work. It looks like a basic 10-14V output but Im not sure what it controls other than a relay labeled self shut off in the service manual. I also need to figure out how im going to run the SCB valve wire, so if I repin my harness just use the now unused ECCS for my SCB? This is a small problem compared to what's ahead but Its what prevents me from having a running engine at the least. Should I A) figure out what it is and make it work or B ) swap harness with the ECU I using and just make it work with the rest of the car. Or Z) just throw an MS3pro and call it a day?

I thought so too on the SMOD but there was mixing in the fluids so idk what happened there. The previous owner also tried to pull a fast one and swap the fluids before selling it to hide the issue from me (why is it so hard to be honest? I would still have bought the car because I know how to fix the issue lol). Upon further research, I have a feeling there's a shift solenoid or two that have gone out. It's at the mechanic right now and they're taking a peek. Normally I would try and mess with it but I'm working 7 12 hour shifts rn so I really don't have time unfortunately. There's a few cat codes and the fuel level doesnt work, which also has a code. There's one code that's thrown me off. P2135. Throttle position sensor A/B Voltage correlation. I swapped the throttle body and the code came back after about 170 miles, which tells me it's more intermittent than anything. This code puts it into limp mode. There's a few things it could be. I didn't go with oem for the throttle body, and I know Nissans get really mad when you do that to them. It could also be a wiring connector issue, or it could be something with the transmission. I've heard that transmission issues can throw throttle body codes. There's no transmission codes that I saw on my code reader, but I don't have a fancy shop grade one so what do I know. The car does have the manual still which is nice. I used it to find the correct transmission fluid for the swap, as well as the fluid amount.

SMOD was an R51 thing, shouldn't be an issue on the R50. It sounds like the valve body may be acting up, but I'm not an auto trans doctor. Any codes? The AT section of the service manual (free download from Nicoclub) might help track down what you're up against. Closest to a bolt-in that I'm aware of is the manual swap. Lock recently did a write-up about all that goes into that. I haven't heard of anyone swapping in a later auto trans.

Moms og owner and was bone stock when I got it. and I've hit them with the impact and have had no issues. I meant to get them same length as the studs but they were like 1/4" longer but still worked. Hardware is hardware along as it fits properly, is as strong as or stronger, and can be removed as easier than before. Some other guy was worried about the rear trailing arm bolt and I just said get some metric high sheer bolts and you'll have no issues. just try and get the same size as before or what ever is common in your tool kit lol

The gasket/valve cover area seem to be not leaking (right now), perhaps it was burn-off from something prior or I'm being naive! If/when I hafta replace 'em again, I'll try the non-RTV route unless the covers have started to "wear", I recall I used RTV the first time and the cleanup was NOT fun! As to the orientation, I think I reasoned that round side into the cover would make sense, thinking it would flatten and fill the cover once tightened, but then I think an interweb search contradicted that saying the round side 'needs' to flatten against the head. Who knows???

Your distributor could be in 180 out. I would check that by pulling the No. 1 spark plug, checking that the piston is at TDC and your timing marks lined up properly. The timing marks are on the front ring of the crank pulley. If you removed that and didn't mark the original position, that could be the problem. If you're an idiot like me, and you take things apart to clean them and forget to match mark them..... The engine will run if the distributor is 180 out and also at 30... Not very well, and your symptoms seem to match my experience.

I don't think there is any real reason NOT to use RTV on the gasket. It is rubber, and it will seal unless you somehow warped your valve cover. I don't think there is really a wrong way to install the gasket. My intuition was to put the round side into the grove on the valve cover.

The manual locking hubs require longer bolts than the auto locking.

Thanks Slart for the kind offer! I'm going to CAREFULLY remove these (I think my main concern was the hexes getting ever more rounded), worst case if I hafta purchase 1 or 2 new ones, that won't be so bad. But I also need an "excuse" to see what's new at the junkyard! Strato, did you run into any galling issues or anything with the stainless bolts? And I didn't know that about the studs and nuts, are you the original owner?

im using stainless hex bolts that are way too long compared to original. my OG hardware was actually studs and nuts on the R50. They're the same through all 80-00 Nissan 4x4s from what I can see. my friends Xterra, brothers wd21 and my r50 all share same hub hardware

I suspect that 40254-32G00 is correct for manual hubs (as it's the only PN listed from the lookup # for manual hubs), and 40266-50W00 is correct for auto hubs, and someone balls'd up the data entry and listed it for both of them. But this suspicion was based partially on the listed year ranges and my assumption that the W/D22 did not come with auto hubs, which it turns out they did. The diagram for an '01 X shows auto and manual hub options, and lists 40254-32G00 for both. I would then assume that the two bolts are the same... except that this post says they're not. I removed auto hubs from my '93 and my '95, and I don't tend to throw bolts away. If you break one, and strike out locally, let me know and I'll see if they're still hanging out in my bonus bolts drawer. FWIW, I was able to get all the bolts out of mine without breaking them, though it did take some heat-and-beat on the '95.

Seems the ones at the local hardware stores usually have a slightly larger shoulder on the head that has trouble clearing the hub cover cutouts. I'll try to be careful removing and installing the current ones, or see if there are any Xterras/Frontiers in the junkyard that have 'em.

Bought 265/80/17 and 1in 1/2 wheel spacers do I need a lift kit. I have a 2in one. Plus do I need to change cv axles thanks in advance.