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Thank you for the information! I am not that experienced with electrical. I get what you are saying. I re ri Ed my 4th incorrect one yesterday. After talking to customer service, which I did before I even placed the order and they still sent me the wrong one -this new customer service claims they were able to verify themselves and that I am receiving a misboxed one. They say they're shipping me a replacement next day shipping.

Oil in the coolant is never a good sign. Bizarre that the blue schmoo in the coolant would slow the oil loss, though. I diagnosed a head gasket on a neighbor's Toyota last year. No clouds, plugs looked OK, no obvious misfire, though he said it felt down on power. I got an occasional bubble out of the radiator with the cap off, but wasn't sure I'd bled it right when I'd refilled it, so I wasn't gonna call it just from that. The smoking gun was when I put compressed air to one of the cylinders (like you would with a leakdown tester, except I didn't have one, so I just used the air nozzle) and the air just boiled out of the radiator. The combustion leak test should tell you the same thing. A failed cooler could explain the oil in the coolant, but I don't think it would explain where the coolant is going.

So I had a poke at mine, and didn't have any luck with the test either. Then I looked at the diagram again, and the wording that made no sense, and I think I may have worked out what it's actually supposed to mean. I think the lead from battery ground to #6 is another test light, probably the screwdriver-with-a-bulb-in-it type, judging by the picture. You're still grounding #6, but through resistance, I guess? When I tried it this way, I started getting results. So that's 1 and 3 to ground, 5 to +, 2 and 7 or 2 and 4 to the test light they bothered to label (which I assume is a dummy load for the wiper motor), then clip the screwdriver test light's lead to ground and touch the tip to #6 to trigger the amp. The amp clicked when I set it up. If the dummy load light was hooked between 2 and 4, like the '87 manual says, when I triggered the amp #6, the amp clicked and the dummy load light lit up and stayed on until I disconnected power. If I wired the dummy from 2 to 7, the relay clicked when I triggered #6, but the light did not come on, and the amp clicked again a moment later, like it could tell that there was no load hooked up and it was going back to sleep. I never saw the bulb in the screwdriver light up. If my current understanding of this really poorly documented test is correct for a change, then this amp tests good by the '87 manual, and bad by the '95 manual--which is bizarre, because it came out of a '95 with a working rear wiper. Try the test with two test lights, see if that makes yours do something. I won't get to it for a few days, but I'm thinking I'll try plugging the '95 amp into my (square-dash) '93 to make sure the amp is compatible with the earlier controls.

You are very welcome, I'm always happy to help, and thank you again for all of your views and support. I'm also pleased to hear that you have found my YouTube videos helpful. Chris.

Mmm. Hard to tell from the pics but most likely you have the trigger + wire on one connector and the ground - on the other (grounding the compressor elsewhere) - confirm in the FSM. In order to save money and increase compatibility across different makes/models, aftermarket suppliers will sometimes just ground it to the case (and on through the engine block). In this way the compressor will work on both single plug and dual plug models - at least in theory. It will probably work fine if you just connect the connector with the + trigger and leave the other disconnected. Alternatively (what I would do) is cut off the ground connector from the old compressor and butt splice it onto ground wire on the new compressor.

Thanks for the feedback! I will go ahead and order that combustion leak test and go from there. I have watched a good chunk of your youtube videos and have found them extremely helpful when performing maintenance or modifying my R50.

Sorry to hear about the recent issues you have been having with your R50, you can complete a head gasket combustion leak test. Here's a link to were you can get said leak test kit. https://amzn.to/3Rf56Jc It is straight forward and very easy to complete this test with the use of this test kit. I sincerely hope it's not a blown head gasket. Oh you can also try bleeding air from your cooling system via the bleed port on the backside of your engine, it will be covered by a rubber cap. Just make sure you are doing this when the engine is cold and with it off Good luck. Chris.

Just in case re-uploading doesn’t work! https://imgur.com/a/2dAgkpe?

Welcome! can't wait to see more of your rig in the future. The picture you sent isn't loading, try using imgur and importing it that way. Usually has better luck that method

Hello everyone! I picked up my 99.5 Pathy a month ago as I’ve been looking for decent off-road rig and can’t afford the Toyota Tax out here in CO. She had 121k on her and was completely stock but otherwise in great shape! In the past few weeks I’ve done a bit of paint work(flares and bumpers) and put on a set of Allied Daytona 30x9.50R15s and wrapped them in some Cooper Open Range A/Ts. I daily it mainly but plan on building her up for trails/overlanding. I am insanely inspired by all of the builds I have looked at on here. So much so that I’ve made an account and this post! Hope to see you all around!

I recently took my 2004 Pathfinder LE with 188K miles on a 3800 mile road trip with a couple of buddies. After the first few days the pathy started run hotter than normal and we noticed the engine was losing a significant amount of oil and coolant had been spraying out of the plastic cap of the overflow tank. We were in a pinch being so far away from home so we limited our driving significantly and made sure to top off oil and coolant everyday. After further inspection I also noticed oil sitting on the surface of my overflow tank. My first thought was the headgasket leaking oil into the cooling system causing it to overpressurize and spray out. However, the car was running completely fine as long as fluids were closely monitored and I don't have any indication of "milkshake" in my oil cap. There is also no white smoke coming from my exhaust. After more research the oil cooler looked like a possible suspect. I do have a slight oil leak there visible from the underside of the car, so I opted for a bottle of blue devil oil stop leak. In the following day this greatly decreased my oil consumption and seemed to keep more oil from getting into my coolant system, but I was still rapidly losing coolant. I did make it back home without any overheating but I wanted to get outside opinions since I have never experienced this before. Is it possible my head gasket is still leaking exhaust fumes into my coolant and causing excess pressure? Are there any tests I could do that anyone recommends? Thanks.

I think it was like a U1011 code or something like that, but thats the only code ever see. 4WD hasnt worked in a couple of years is there a common cause?

I measured 33.5" on one front corner and 34" other 3 corners from ground to fender edge for reference. Has 265/65/17s on it (30.5" tall) seems like thats higher than OEM?

thanks for the info, didnt know they where different but that makes sense. Ill be sure to check ill be sure to come back to this thread and attach a picture if i get around to ever fixing it lol

Nicoclub has the '06 manual. Hopefully it's there somewhere. Might find something similar in one of the suspension sections. The GI section has the overall height, if that helps. The bouncing sounds like your struts are shot. Fresh ones should deal with that. Might help with the squatting if the old springs are sagged. I don't know the R51 well enough to know what's out there for stiffer springs or suspension lifts.

I think the four-cylinder trucks got the C200 rear end, which does use a crush sleeve. There's a data plate near the wiper motor that should have the gear ratio (HG43 or HG46) if you'd rather track down a used rear end than rebuild yours. If these were available with the V6 in your market, you may be able to track down the H233B rear end, which does not use a crush sleeve. LSD is marked by an orange sticker that says "use LSD oil only," but you should be able to tell by trying to spin a rear wheel by hand with the rear end jacked up. If it spins the other wheel the other way pretty easily, it's an open diff. I haven't found a full service manual for the diesel trucks, but this manual covers the engine. The '90 US-market service manual from cardiagn.com or the '94/'95 from Nicoclub should get you close enough on the rest of the truck. The PD section covers the rear end. Fog lights are a pretty common option, at least over here. Different bumper inserts, relay near the wiper motor, rocker switch on the console, little added wiring. That harness was bundled with the alarm system on mine, suggesting it was installed at the same time, probably by the dealer. Neither system is in the service manual. The only black and red switch I remember seeing on one of these was a Russian (?) market hazard light switch. If your mystery switch isn't the same style as the rest of the dash switches, I would assume the PO added something. Follow the wires. And yeah, gotta host pictures elsewhere and link them in, unfortunately.

I haven't tried swapping calipers, but I do have some WD21 front brake parts laying around. Let me know if you need measurements.

The switch, yeah. Square-dash has a rocker switch on the dash, round-dash moved it to the end of the wiper stalk. The wiring to the amp looks mostly the same, but it's hard to say for certain given the different switch and the stuff they added to make that work. That's a good idea. I'll have a poke at mine later and see if passes one or both tests. Might also be a good sanity test for if we've got the test procedure right.

Haven't seen Pete around in a while. This should have what you're after.

Spent an hour or so reading a thread where guys were using Land Rover springs only to realize it was for the 96-04 generation trucks and not what I have.... 210k miles, get alot of bounce/unsettled feeling and looking for shock/spring recommendations etc. Not looking to raise ride height much if any at all, but may occasionally move my trailer around shop or move car around on trailer 5 miles and I remember this thing squatted HARD with just having few people in the back. Is there some cheap/easy option like those guys were using with Land Rover springs? (I think their stock stuff has 2" spacers, they were taking out the spacers and using the LR stuff that was a couple inches taller free length) Rockauto has Monroe or Gabriel complete front strut/spring assemblies I was thinking about getting and not have to worry about bolts breaking/etc any experience with them?? $65 or $85 each side is hard to beat. KYB assemblies were $149 but doubt its any better as $75 of that is the springs alone Anyone know of equivalent specs for these chassis(this is from 96-04 truck)? Id like to see where mine measures vs OEM spec

I somehow missed that one important fact

you're going to have to look for a different lift option than this section. this is for 96-2004 Pathfinders, not 06 unfortunatly

Looking to fix up bouncy suspension on my 2006 with 210k miles, some light duty towing very short distances i may do and i see these things sag a bunch with a load on them. What is best answer for shocks, possibly rear springs, rear airbag inserts etc? I see the NRC9447 landrover springs getting used, what about anyone using the variable rate NRC8045 number listed in the spring listing early in this thread? I dont really want to raise the back of the truck any, more often than not im loading stuff in/out of the back and those show to be .3" inch shorter than the 9447s free length. They are a variable rate spring supposedly 155-215#s so Id think they would prob end up being 1" or so lower ride than the 9447 normally, but get into the higher spring rate when loaded up a good bit? Rockauto has Monroe or Gabriel complete front strut/spring assemblies I was thinking about getting for the front and not have to worry about bolts breaking/etc any experience with them??/

I wouldn't say I'm a great free-form troubleshooter. Give me a schematic and I can maybe figure a few things out, but I'm not sure if the traces on the board are even visible for me to follow. I'll take a closer look when I get a chance. I could try ohming it out, but that might not be that easy since I can't isolate the components easily, not to mention very tedious. I feel like I'm just close enough now to solving the problem that I hate to quit, but far enough away still to question if it's worth the effort. I might also try investigating some more junkyards, to see if I get lucky. I am concerned that if there are a bunch of different (and relevant) variations of this amp according to model year, it could prove to be a very difficult search, as I'd basically be restricted to '87-'88 pathfinders vs. '87-'94 I was initially a little confused by this, but when you're talking about going from a nine-pin to a four-pin switch, I think you mean the switch on the dash, right? And the pins on the amp connector (and the wires are the same? If so, do you think performing the fucntionality check in the service manual on your module using pins 2 and 4 would suffice as a compatability check?

Sorry for reviving an old thread, do you still have that PDF for the TD27 EGR?