Piscator Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Since I have to replace my LCA bushings I'm thinking I might just as well replace the Torsions. My old ones are AC's 30%+ ones and I've been satisfied with them. They're rusty enough that I think I'll replace them when I do the bushings since they have to come off anyway. So, Any recommendations before I buy from AC again? Its been over 10 years since I installed the current set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Sway away makes good bars. Based on my research, looks like they make/made the NISMO bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 I understand that the Sway Away bars are +30% as well, so is that some standard, or does AC sell the Sway Away bars? I had to check, same price within $5 so order who is cheaper for shipping/has them in stock. http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981697-pathfinder-torsion-bars.html http://www.swayaway.com/products/product-list/mode/filter?sort=name&order=ascending B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Yes, sway aways are +30%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Although I do not know, it would not surprise me if the AC T-Bars are rebranded Sway-A-Ways (think PA Body lift kits sold as their own). I have the SaW bars and they have been on my truck for.. I don't know but it's got to be approaching 9-10yrs now And they still feel like they did the first day I put them on. On top of that, I don't know how old they really are, as I bought them used, hand sanded and painted them before installing. So my first thought here is actually a question for you... Are you sure they actually need replaced or are you potentially just throwing money down the drain? Have you re-indexed them several times in that 10yrs only to have them sag again and again? If not then my opinion on this is, and it is just my opinion, remove them, sand (treat for rust if needed, but doubtful)spray several thin coats with a good tough and long lasting paint then re-index them as you reinstall. Odds are it will be another 10yrs before you even think bout them again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig1902 Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 So my first thought here is actually a question for you... Are you sure they actually need replaced or are you potentially just throwing money down the drain? Have you re-indexed them several times in that 10yrs only to have them sag again and again? If not then my opinion on this is, and it is just my opinion, remove them, sand (treat for rust if needed, but doubtful)spray several thin coats with a good tough and long lasting paint then re-index them as you reinstall. Odds are it will be another 10yrs before you even think bout them again. Agreed, if it's just a bit of surface rust and they aren't sagging then it's a waste of money replacing them when a sand and re-coat will do the job 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 (edited) Definitely check to see if the bars can be indexed back to the right height before hand. A good shop can do this quite easily. Especially if they have computerized alignment equipment. You could probably also do it yourself. Only reason I replaced mine is because they broke from unusual circumstances. Edited March 26, 2015 by 92Path_68CJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 You could probably also do it yourself. How To Re-Index Your Torsion Bars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscator Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 (edited) Thanks guys, I've not had to re-index them. I do need to get under there and see how bad the rust really is. SO I'm really just making sure I have options should I decide to replace. I just got a gallon of marine rust converter so once I'm done, or while they're off I'll put a wire brush on them and take the rust of and treat it. The back on unless I see something truly deep. Then on to the frame rot behind the rear drivers tire. Hoping to find a serviceable donor Pathy in a local parts garden and just take a frame section to weld in place. Once its warmer out.... Edited March 26, 2015 by Piscator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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