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conor1123

Mr.510's VG33 Crank Adaptor.

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whats the reasoning for mixing and matching parts between the VG30 and VG33? why not just swap the whole thing or would that not fit? I'm a newb so never did one of these swaps! would the headers fit the vg33 heads without issue?

 

From what i've been reading, almost everyone does the swap differently. Some people want to keep all of their old vg30 parts just because maybe they have 5 starters and 3 oil pumps laying around for that motor. Others just throw it in and don't care about keeping the AC or not.

 

In my case, id rather use all my old 3.0 stuff. So i'm just machining the 3.3 crank to work with the 3.0 oil pump and pulleys so i can keep all my old accessories. I was going to swap in my 3.0 crank so I wouldn't have to do any of this but since i'm doing a vg34 build I would need to get my crank rebalanced with the vh45 pistons. Talking to Steveo, he told me it would probably be cheaper to balance the 3.3 than the 3.0 because the 3.3 will take less work to balance.

 

There's a lot too it but it isn't complicated.

 

Headers will work but you would need to enlarge the holes on the headers to fit the 10mm exhaust stud from the vg33 heads.

Edited by conor1123

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It's not mix and matching parts. It's using the VG33 block, with VG30 cams (if you can), and then bolting the factory accessories to the new block.

 

This too!

Edited by conor1123

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conor, if you can use the vg33 oil pump, it's far far far superior to the vg30 oil pump.

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conor, if you can use the vg33 oil pump, it's far far far superior to the vg30 oil pump.

 

What is the easiest way to go about this?

Basically at the moment i'm looking for the easiest way without cutting anything (on my end).

 

Machine the vg33 crank snout to fit the vg30 pulley then use the vg33 oil pump.

Now which water pump do I use? Or will I have clearance issues with other parts no matter what?

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That is where my knowledge is limited. I think if you were to just drop one in you would want an xterra/frontier 3.3 instead because of the accessory locations.

 

Do you want to keep AC or not? If not, you can just drop an xterra/frontier one in I believe.

If you want the AC you would need someone re-route your AC lines to match that AC compressor from the 3.3 (I THINK)

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yea my AC is busted... and its going to be 100F tomorrow ugh! I definitely need to get it fixed....

 

So I guess there's not much benefit to having the JDM version of the VG33?

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Your vg30 accessory brackets will bolt to the proper locations on a vg33 block regardless of where you got the vg33 block from.

 

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Your vg30 accessory brackets will bolt to the proper locations on a vg33 block regardless of where you got the vg33 block from.

 

The thing that matters is the frontier / xterra Oil pump angles the filter housing forward. (watch out for your steering stabilizer)

 

The r50 Oil pump puts the filter where the steering center link is so It cannot be used unless the filter is bypassed for using the filter location above the starter.

 

Also 3.3 quest.villager blocks have the dipstick in the wrong location, Punch out the correct plug and move it to the one that's empty (yes dipstick plugs are reusable) You may have to remove the Main girdle to get a punch on that plug. (I used a 3.3 villager bock as it was new in a factory crate :) )

Edited by MY1PATH

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Don't forget the check ball if you use the filter on the block.

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What is the easiest way to go about this?

Basically at the moment i'm looking for the easiest way without cutting anything (on my end).

 

Machine the vg33 crank snout to fit the vg30 pulley then use the vg33 oil pump.

Now which water pump do I use? Or will I have clearance issues with other parts no matter what?

If you use the vg33 oil pump and don't want to cut, then the domino effect starts and you won't run the vg30 externals.

 

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

 

 

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If you use the vg33 oil pump and don't want to cut, then the domino effect starts and you won't run the vg30 externals.

 

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

 

Hey Steven, I got a hold of an adapter so ill be using that :)

  • Like 1

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Actually the r50 oil filter bracket that is bolted to the r50 oil pump fits completely fine in a wd21. It clears the center link and steering damper with either the stock 4x4 steering OR the 2wd swap steering. I know this becase I am running a r50 vg33 plus r50 accessories in my wd21. I also run the short steering stops for max steering angle and zero contact issues.

 

The problem with the r50 oil filter adapter bracket is that it is physically fatter where it bolts to the oil pump which doesn't allow enough room for the alternator to maintain its position when using factory or (w)d22 accessory layout. If you use the r50 accessories which swap the p/s pump and alternator locations and make a custom low profile bracket for the p/s pump then it all fits perfectly.

 

Just wanted to clear up the fitment issues

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Actually the r50 oil filter bracket that is bolted to the r50 oil pump fits completely fine in a wd21. It clears the center link and steering damper with either the stock 4x4 steering OR the 2wd swap steering. I know this becase I am running a r50 vg33 plus r50 accessories in my wd21. I also run the short steering stops for max steering angle and zero contact issues.

 

The problem with the r50 oil filter adapter bracket is that it is physically fatter where it bolts to the oil pump which doesn't allow enough room for the alternator to maintain its position when using factory or (w)d22 accessory layout. If you use the r50 accessories which swap the p/s pump and alternator locations and make a custom low profile bracket for the p/s pump then it all fits perfectly.

 

Just wanted to clear up the fitment issues

Can I see a picture of your R50 oil filter next to your center link?

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Sure ill snap a pic tomorrow in the daylight.

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bump

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hey sry for the delay. had some issues posting pics with my phone but here they are. you can see my steering damper is unbolted on the frame side cause im in the middle of ripping out all my mods to swap over to my new truck but its only about an inch out of place and you can see there's tons of room above it. zero clearance issues.

 

IMAG1642_zps7ad04b31.jpgIMAG1649_zpsb39b3164.jpgIMAG1646_zps8534898e.jpg

 

this last pic shows where the center link is. this is with a 2wd steering setup but i ran 4wd steering before this and i never had any clearance issues. i also run the shortest steering stops for max steering angle and no contact. it keeps the filter up higher than the bottom of the oil pan so its impossible for it to hit anything.

 

as you can see im running the r50 vg33, r50 alternator + power steering pump in the r50 locations. (alt on pass side, p/s on driver side). made custom bracket to mount the power steering low profile as close to the motor as possible and a shorter drive belt.

Edited by Nefarious

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interesting. I guess the X filter is lower because mine sits just a little in front of the CL. David and I just figured if it was straight down It'd be in the way but we did not figure it would be higher too.

 

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yeah the r50 filter mount is straight down just like the villager/quest but it is so much shorter in over all length, it actually stays above the bottom of the oil pan, i think it actually gives the most possible clearance of all the oil filter setups. the X filter mount is definitely longer than the r50 filter mount but it also points forward on an angle so it clears the center link still. the problem with the r50 mount is that it is physically fatter up top where it bolts to the oil pump and if you run your alternator on that side i don't think theres enough room to move the alternators bottom out far enough to clear the filter mount without hitting the steering box. when you run p/s on the drivers side that becomes a non-issue as its so much smaller than the alternator. my p/s pump sits beside the steering box now and my alternator is beside the battery. it's actually a much more space-saving setup as well as keeping the p/s lines VERY short. i also moved my p/s reservoir over to the other side of the engine bay. cleared up an immense amount of room under the hood.

Edited by Nefarious
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Looks like you've got an oil leak to fix while that motors out. That's all I have to add here. :lol:

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Oh yeah its 220k km vg33, seals or timing havent been done in a long time. It's all getting done when it comes out. Got a few other power adder mods lined up as well :)

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.

Edited by Nefarious

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Kinda bouncing off the current topic sorry. Has anyone figured out a way to buy Mr 510's crank adapter? I have searched ebay and found nothing. does anyone have one they would sell?

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Have you contacted him through his company website? I believe its www.vg30.com

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