Firehawk Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Guy's (yes I searched first) I was wondering if it is possible to tow a WD21 (93) Patfinder 4x4 auto trans with all 4 wheels on the ground. The reason I ask is I know subaru's for example can not be towed with either set of wheels on the ground, they recomend a flat bed. I would love to be able to get a tow bar and then I could transport it 1.5 hrs to the beach on the weekends. I am sure this has been discussed before but searhing for towing seems to always bring up other items related to towing. Thanks for the help! ~Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 I believe the key is to disconnect the drive shaft or you can damage the transmission, otherwise flat towing is limited to 35mph/2miles or something like that. It's been a while so lets see what others remember. Yes, this has been discussed before, and yes, the search function isn't the best either. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firehawk Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 Ya I was not sure if just putting the transfer case in neutral would do it or what. Thanks for the input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 (edited) If you put the transfer case in neutral the the front and rear diff would be locked together (4x4). Also, you'd still be spinning part of the transmission. I think I'd just unbolt the shaft where it meets the axle, push it over against the frame rail or a bracket or something, and strap it in place. Put it in 2H. Then you're good to go. The problem (as I remember reading about it) is that the trans relies on the engine to push the fluid around to lube the bearings and whatnot. With the engine off, the oil isn't flowing, and so any part of the trans (except the transfer case) that's spinning won't stay lubed for long. I flat towed mine once with all four wheels down and the drive shaft attached and had no problems, but that was only about half a mile. The owner's manual suggests putting the rear wheels on a tow dolly, or using a flatbed if possible. Edited August 5, 2012 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 If you put the Tcase in neutral it should be ok, because only the output shaft of the tcase will turn. The tranny will be disconnected, this is why the truck rolls in P with the tcase in N. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firehawk Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 Do we know of anyone using this method over long periods of time? I just want to be sure b/c I don't want to damage the truck. Plus a cheap trailer would cost me $1500 or so but if that is the way I need to then I will do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 I actually flat towed my pathfinder with the driveshafts connected still and tcase and transmission in neutral with no problems. Again, YMMV. That's from Houston to Barnwell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 x2 Putting the transfer case into Neutral disconnects the wheels from the transmission. There is a warning in the owners manual about the truck rolling in Park when the transfer case is in Neutral. I think the drive-shaft removal thing is for 2WD trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 I would still disconnect the drive shaft. In the photos below, you can see an oil gutter that moves oil from the front of the transfer case to the bearing and speedometer gear at the back of the case on the output shaft, When your t-case is in neutral, the rear shaft moves, but nothing in the front portion of the case moves because of the position of the shift fork. This would cause no oil to flow through this oil gutter and likely cause wear on this bearing if towed for a longer period of time. I don't know what the manual says, but I'd remove the driveshaft just to be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 That makes sense. There is the answer. Remove the driveshaft. Speaking of which, if you are going to remove that drive shaft, if that pinion seal is leaking in the rear differential, that would be a good time to replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firehawk Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 Is disconnecting the drive shaft a fairly easy task or should I start looking into a cheap trailer? B/c again, I am looking for an option to take the truck to the island for the weekend or the day and then back again. I want to tow the truck in case I break something I don't want to be stuck over an hour from home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 (edited) The owner's manual gives a limit on the number of miles and speed that it can be towed w/o the driveshaft disconnected. I just looked at it and it is as follows for 4wd with both tranny and transfer case in neutral. Hubs Unlocked: Automatic Less than 30mph Less than 40 miles Manual Less than 60mph Less than 500 miles Having said that....If you want to go any distance at highway speed then you need to disconnect the drive shaft. I have personally done this and towed it 2000 miles(2 round trips at 1000 a piece). I don't have pictures but this is asically what I did. - I wrapped a piece of rubber around the large cross-member that is up and above the differential. Tie wrap it in place. Rubber should be wider than the flange of the drive shaft that connects to the differential. - I disconnected the drive shaft from differential and pulled it up to the rubber on the cross-member. Heavy duty tie wrap securely to cross-member so it won't move around while truck is being towed. - Now since this pulls the drive shaft a bit out of the transfer-case I wrapped plastic (like a garbage bag) around the front u-joint up to the transfer case to keep dirt out of this area. You can tie wrap or tape in place as you see fit. - Back to the differential. As I recall, there is not enough space between the differential flange and the differential housing to get the bolts out. So, I used some washers and the original nuts to keep the bolts from flopping around while the differential flange is spinning while being towed. Last thing you want is the bolt head machining into your differential housing. Disconnecting is fairly easy...its only 4 bolts. The other parts don't take that long either. I just left the rubber piece in place after the first time I did it. BTW, you don't want to pull the drive shaft all the way out because then you'll be losing fluid out the rear of the transfer case. One thing you may want to keep in mind....is that if what you break is part of the steering you may be stuck anyway and even if it doesn't break but if it gets whacked out then you could severely wear your tires. Edited August 6, 2012 by andreus009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firehawk Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the lengthy post and info. You make a good point about the steering as well. I was not big on the added wear that the tires will get as opposed to riding on a trailer. I may just take it easy for now and keep my eyes open for a cheap flatbed. I have been needing one for a few years now anyway so I can drag my car to the track. Thanks again everyone~ Edited August 7, 2012 by Firehawk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Someone once told me that the general "rule of thumb" when it comes to flat towing a 4x4 is that, "If it has a tranny cooler ... don't flat tow it." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der_Vier Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 I belive as i was flipping through the owners manual for my 98 it shows somethin bout a tow dolly. Why not snag one them, put the front on it and then unbolt the propeller shaft from the back axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 (edited) Or better yet, tow it from the back with the back wheels on the dolly and the front hubs unlocked. Steering wheel has to be locked from turning obviously. Edited August 7, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Someone once told me that the general "rule of thumb" when it comes to flat towing a 4x4 is that, "If it has a tranny cooler ... don't flat tow it." In all politeness, how the hell does that make 'rule' of anything? Stop listening to that person!!! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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