silver97ex Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 (edited) Removing fan and shroud, drive belts and pulleys, all that fun stuff. Is there a way to not have to do that on the VG30E? That is how the manual says to do it Edited December 20, 2008 by silver97ex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 (edited) Removing fan and shroud, drive belts and pulleys, all that fun stuff. Is there a way to not have to do that on the VG30E? That is how the manual says to do it Does the housing look like the pic I posted? I thought the difference between engines was only with the injection units. All I had to do was what I posted above, with the addition of removing the idler pully for the AC compressor. (I left mine off since my AC doesn't work) and that was a matter of 5 extra min and a socket wrench. Overall it took me about an hour, mostly from fighting the stupid little hose attaching to the housing. Edited December 20, 2008 by kingman92010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver97ex Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 Looks very similar, who knows? Once I decide to dig into it again, I will take a look and see if it is as simple as that. I hope so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 edit: this was on a 95 SE btw Same as a 93. As for what all needs to be removed, just the hose and the idler assembly (if you have a good set of swivel sockets ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver97ex Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 (if you have a good set of swivel sockets ). Which I do, I guess I will save myself a bunch of time thanks to the great NPORA!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 Yeah, the one nut that is tucked up behind was fun, got it going completely by feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
here4now Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 after reading this thread at least I know I'm not the only one whose pathy runs cold. though mine constantly idles at 1k. doesn't matter what temp things are at. first start of the day, or middle of 2 hours of hours of continuous running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiwhore Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 i did not know that is there any reason why you shouldnt just get the 180 one? does it have any effect on anything besides blowing warmer air? Nope. Bought a 180 T-stat but haven't had time to install it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 after reading this thread at least I know I'm not the only one whose pathy runs cold.though mine constantly idles at 1k. doesn't matter what temp things are at. first start of the day, or middle of 2 hours of hours of continuous running. My 93 idles around 700 and usually gets up to just under halway on the temp gauge year round (any higher and my elec. fan kicks on). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iLLlegal Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 just the thread i was looking for. every year my pathfinder has its temp gauge right in the middle of C & H. this year its always below it. like i could drive it for 2+ hours and it still wont go too the middle. I'm guessing its the T-stat as well. my heating never is as hot as it used to be. you think the T-stat is causing irratic idling and black umm gunk coming out of the exhaust?? yeah i dunno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
here4now Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 just the thread i was looking for. every year my pathfinder has its temp gauge right in the middle of C & H. this year its always below it. like i could drive it for 2+ hours and it still wont go too the middle. I'm guessing its the T-stat as well. my heating never is as hot as it used to be. you think the T-stat is causing irratic idling and black umm gunk coming out of the exhaust?? yeah i dunno tstat shouldn't cause erratic idling. the idle is affected by the signal it receives from the coolant temp sensor, and the IAC. If one or both are bad you will get an erratic idle. ALSO low coolant will cause issues. In your case I believe it to be an IAC issue. the dark exhaust is a symptom(?) of running rich. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 tstat shouldn't cause erratic idling. the idle is affected by the signal it receives from the coolant temp sensor, and the IAC. If one or both are bad you will get an erratic idle. ALSO low coolant will cause issues. In your case I believe it to be an IAC issue. the dark exhaust is a symptom(?) of running rich. or crappy fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
here4now Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 (edited) or crappy fuel. for the erratic idle or the dark exhaust? either way, you are correct. maybe he should toss some Heet into the tank (can't hurt) Edited December 22, 2008 by here4now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iLLlegal Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 for the erratic idle or the dark exhaust?either way, you are correct. maybe he should toss some Heet into the tank (can't hurt) this is why i love this forum. ill look into those two issues. I'm sure it isn't low coolant(that was the problem in my accord a couple days ago) but COULD be crappy fuel. this poor idle is only at start or 20min of warming up. and right now around here its about -25C or -13F so i don't think the cold helps at alll. *apologies to the OP for the off topic posts* ill continue this issue, (if i dont figure it out) in another thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiwhore Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 this is why i love this forum. ill look into those two issues. I'm sure it isn't low coolant(that was the problem in my accord a couple days ago) but COULD be crappy fuel. this poor idle is only at start or 20min of warming up. and right now around here its about -25C or -13F so i don't think the cold helps at alll. *apologies to the OP for the off topic posts* ill continue this issue, (if i dont figure it out) in another thread. Eh, no big deal. I decided to do a timing belt job on this rig along with the t-stat later this week. The last timing belt change done on the vehicle was at 63K miles.....it now has 211K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 (any higher and my elec. fan kicks on). Yeh I just installed Black Magic Extreme! My pathy warms up alot faster in the cold now, I love it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Eh, no big deal. I decided to do a timing belt job on this rig along with the t-stat later this week. The last timing belt change done on the vehicle was at 63K miles.....it now has 211K miles. Yikes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiwhore Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 Yikes! I know. I've been driving it around in +3 feet of snow praying it won't break on me. Been keeping the revs low just in case it does snap. Heading to the dealer today to buy the belt and other assorted parts. What parts do I need to replace while I'm in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 typically the water pump, timing belt, t-stat, cam seals, ps belt, AC belt, alt belt all get done at the same time when you need ot do the water pump. The t-belt does not require removal of the rear cover so you can skip the cam seals and water pump of you think they are ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
here4now Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Don't forget to replace the tensioner and it's spring. Cheap insurance against it failing and destroying your hard work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 good point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiwhore Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 Is there a coolant bypass hose or any other item I should replace as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiwhore Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 I checked the cooling fan clutch by spinning the fan when the engine is cold....it spins very free with little resistance. Could the fan clutch be shot? The fan seems to run all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver97ex Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 my fan pretty much runs ALL the time too. Not sure if its normal though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiwhore Posted January 5, 2009 Author Share Posted January 5, 2009 UPDATE.... Things are good now. Replaced the thermostat with OE Nissan type. Fan clutch is fine. Flushed the coolant, added new fluid and heater and temp are working good. Temp gauge goes up to about 1/4 which is twice what it was before. Got hot air out the vents. Must have been a faulty thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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