JackStraw1 Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 I went to homedepot and bought some 12" drill bits. They were like $6 each. I went in through the inner fender. Not much space but it got the job done. The drill bits are only good for a couple studs so I bought 5 smallest bits and 5 of the next size up. I tried left handed bits on the ones I could get to since they are much smaller. They didn't grab for me. Use oil and drill slowly when you do. Don't heat the bits up too much. Good luck. It's rather stressful. Also try drilling the hole in the stud to the largest you can so you can use the largest extractor possible. This will help to ensure the extractor doesn't break. No 12" bits here at HD, Loewe's or local hardware store. I guess I am living in @!*%eville because I can't source a frickin thing here locally - really a royal PITA. Can't find cobalt drill bits with hex drive. Can't find a drill extension with a chuck instead of a hex drive so I can use regular drill bits. Chewed up the TN bits. Can't find stud for the collector. Can't even get the dipsticks at Advance to find me the right exhaust gasket that goes between the downpipe on the drivers side and the Y-pipe. On the plus side, I got a nifty little gizmo for centering the drill on the studs. Got one out cleanly and another drilled through but it's sticky and sitting in penetrating oil a little longer before I give it another twist. Really don't want a broken extractor here. May just have to drill it out and re-tap. Might just have to try that ATF/acetone or lacquer thinner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted November 21, 2015 Author Share Posted November 21, 2015 (edited) My bad I guess it was 50/50 ATF and acetone. I hear that Lacquer thinner works too. for the nerds here are the specs > No Oil used ……………………516 foot pounds> WD-40 ………………………238 foot pounds> PB Blaster ……………………214 foot pounds> Liquid Wrench …………………127 foot pounds> Kano Kroil ……………………106 foot pounds> ATF/Acetone mix…………………53 foot pounds Edited November 21, 2015 by msavides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Interesting! I was going to mention Kroil, but I have never heard of ATF/Acetone mix so I didn't want to muddy the waters. I'll have to try that.. Where did you get your information? I never knew there was such a difference between Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster, I always considered them interchangeable. No 12" bits here at HD, Loewe's or local hardware store. I guess I am living in @!*%eville because I can't source a frickin thing here locally - really a royal PITA. Can't find cobalt drill bits with hex drive. Can't find a drill extension with a chuck instead of a hex drive so I can use regular drill bits. Chewed up the TN bits. Can't find stud for the collector. Can't even get the dipsticks at Advance to find me the right exhaust gasket that goes between the downpipe on the drivers side and the Y-pipe. On the plus side, I got a nifty little gizmo for centering the drill on the studs. Got one out cleanly and another drilled through but it's sticky and sitting in penetrating oil a little longer before I give it another twist. Really don't want a broken extractor here. May just have to drill it out and re-tap. Might just have to try that ATF/acetone or lacquer thinner It might not help you now, but perhaps it will in the future. Check out MSC Industrial Supply. http://www.mscdirect.com/ If they don't have it, you probably don't need it; their prices are decent and shipping ground if they have a warehouse in the area (a state or two) will take a day or two. Think of them as the Amazon of Industrial... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) got the info off a local 4x4 forum. I had never heard of it either. nor have I tried it, but the replys from the people who tried it said it worked really well, in addition It apparently cleans off rusty parts really well. I have no idea where they got the info either. but since it is not published for profit I trust it a bit more than if PB blaster or WD40 published the specs. a little googling found where the info came from . apparently If you spray a heavily rusted part with it... you will see smoke/vapor rise from the part. It's pretty scary, but it works really really well. For all of you that are mechanically inclined..... Penetrating Oils Compared A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best! Here's the summary of the test results: Penetrating oil .......... Average load None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ............ 127 poundsKano Kroil ............... 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix.............53 pounds The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Edited November 25, 2015 by msavides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackStraw1 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the link B. Nice site. I found a 12" drill for my pilot hole at an old department store from the 50's that sells damn near everything. +1 mom and pop. I tried the acetone/ATF. I managed to get one unbroken stud out. The two that are center drilled still won't budge. I soaked em overnight. There are two remaining unbroken studs and they're not wanting to move either. They are the two on the center exhaust port. So..... as it sits now, I'm planning on drilling out the two broken ones and helicoiling and I think I'm gonna leave the two intact studs alone. Mainly because the bottom one looks darn near impossible to drill a straight hole into because of interference with the top of the engine mount on that side. I've torqued on em to the point of flexing with no movement. I need to get this puppy back on the road before the snow comes ! Edited November 25, 2015 by JackStraw1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 My bad I guess it was 50/50 ATF and acetone. I hear that Lacquer thinner works too. for the nerds here are the specs > No Oil used 516 foot pounds > WD-40 238 foot pounds > PB Blaster 214 foot pounds > Liquid Wrench 127 foot pounds > Kano Kroil 106 foot pounds > ATF/Acetone mix53 foot pounds Ooook so what do these numbers represent? What is the control set at and how are these numbers harvested? I'm actually very interested in this with all the bolts that are snapping off on this damn thing. Maybe I misread it or missed an explanation already due to reading from my phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 Atf has great creeping properties. The acetone probably just thins it. I used a bottle of old atf for drilling holes into metal. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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