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fleurys

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fleurys last won the day on February 15

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About fleurys

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 09/10/1970

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Yakima LoadWarrior + Extension Cargo rack + Tire Carrier + Hi-Lift Jack Brackets 48" Hi-Lift Jack PIAA 520ATP lights Daystar Light Switch Cobra 75WXST and Wilson Fiberglass 3' KYB Struts + AC Coils + Rancho 9000XL BF Goodrich KM2 255/85R16 (33.4) Front & Rear Arb Lockers Custom aluminum full belly skid plate Custom steel+hdpe rock sliders sfcreation.com 1" front and rear coil spacers 1.25" wheel spacers
  • Place of Residence
    QC
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2001

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    qc
  • Country
    Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. sfcreation has closed ? Really ? LOL
  2. OK... the truck is fixed... Here's my findings and reasoning if it can help others... So having confirmed that the fuse 56 is only being used for rear window defogger, and that removing the Rear window defogger relay (The first point of connection in the circuit) did not stop the parasitic draw, I decided to isolate the R/W (red with white stripes). I disconnected the battery then What I did is apply direct battery voltage to the fuse pin (under the fuse while it is removed), and measured the voltage at the relay box side on pin 5 (while the relay is removed). I measured 0.4 volts less than what the voltage that was put in... That confirmed me that I had also the right wire and that it was going directly from the fuse box to the relay box... One thing I tried is to measure ohm resistance on the wire but it showed 0 ohm resistance... I'm not sure what to think of that since my 12v was shorting to ground somewhere..maybe someone can explain this result...normal ?? So having the confirmation that the wire was picking up a ground along the way between the fuse box and relay box, I was not very interested of pulling the harness and opening it and doing tests along the way to try to find the break in the wire or whatever was the issue... If it is a rubbing issue and that the harness has been exposed to body ground, I know I will probably have to have a more thorough look in the future as I expect new parasitic draw to come my way, but I am taking a chance... So basically, I dismantled the fuse and relay box, cut the R/W wire and spliced a new 14g wire going on the firewall side. The problem is now gone and the draw is now about 13ma... Big change from .335ma at the beginning. I learned quite a bit about electrical troubleshooting in this one... Cheers . Steve.
  3. One more thing... There was an old and problematic remote starter installed before I bought the truck... It was always acting weird and last night I decided to remove and clean everything... I'm thinking that maybe the rear defogger circuit was piggy back on for the remote starter... Would it make sens ? I never installed a remote starter, so I do not know, but it would seem logical for it to attach to it.... If you think my approach is wrong, don't hesitate to talk ! LOL.. One last thing to note, is that when this fuse (56) is off, the current draw is 13ma...so I know once this is figured out, i'll be golden...
  4. Thanks for taking the time to help guys... really appreciated.... Before I continue, this is a 2003 LE with vdc and navi... I have a couple of hours in on this and you can tell me if I'm doing it wrong... Here's the summary of the power distribution diagram : so it seems it is only doing 2 circuits... LOAD and DEF. Here's the details of the power diag : so again, in details , it is EC-LOAD and EL-DEF circuits. Here's EC-LOAD diagram... This shows me, regarding fuse 56, that in conjunction with the EL-DEF diagram, the power is really not being consumed by any other device then the rear defogger circuitry.. My theory about a mistery ground between the fuse and the relay (not the battery and the fuse like previously stated) is based on the fact that when disconnecting the D305 Ground (the ground for the defogger), nothing changes in the current draw. So my nect step this morning is to trace the wire from the fuse box to the relay box.. I'm thinking it's picking up a ground along the way... I will also confirm that the pin 5 (wire B/Y) on the other side of the relay has no power when the relay is removed... This will confirm me that the issue is not within the relay box itself...
  5. Hi everyone... I am presently troubleshooting a parasitic draw issue that manifested itself this morning because outside temp went to -21c... I am searching for 0.3A draw and I have found it coming from fuse 56. This is one of the 3 fuses responsible for the rear defogger.... The problem I have is with the logic of what I am finding while troubleshoothing this... Here's what I am doing and what the results are. 1) Remove the fuse = the draw goes away 2) with the fuse back, if I remove the Rear window defogger relay #E117 = The draw is STILL there ! Is it safe to think that somehow between the battery and the fuse, this R/W wire is finding a ground ? Am i wrong to think this ? How would you go about this ? I'm looking for any advice from anyone who has troubleshoot an electrical issue. Thanks again. Steve.
  6. Having recessed bolts and extra bends is all extras that add to the cost and at first I was selling my skids with oil filter and oil pan drain plug access and I had countersunk Stainless steel bolts... Sadly at the end, I was not selling alot of them because most people did not want to pay extra for these... So I am selling the most basic set at the best cost I can while making some $$... The shipping has to be compared properly... When you cross countries, it's a totally different ballgame... Also I ship my stuff with tracking and insurance. It barely takes 4-8 business days anywhere to usa... I could ship it with no tracking, but time has showed me that everybody loses at the end when the item does not get to the buyer or it does get there but with damages that I have to absorb.... move to canada...shipping is cheaper lol !
  7. time for these maybe ? https://sfcreation.com/products/front-skidplate-14-aluminium
  8. @mandersen8any chance you can link the video cause somehow I can't find the post on FB....
  9. New stars of our web site for the next few months .... More and more R51 are coming through !! Don't hesitate if you have questions. (info @ sfcreation . com)
  10. Excellent. Thank you for the precision... just to be sure I undertsand.. You mean any R51 manufactured from april 2007 to july 2008 don't have them ?? is that right or am i not understanding what you meant ? Tks.
  11. no it was not... For the other surface mount, I was not able to purchase them at the electronic store... I guess it could also be a possibility...
  12. ok... After talking with a retired electronics teacher, he basically told me to forget about this...He told me that not only we do not have the circuit map for it but it would require long time and money just to troubleshoot... So this (what I thought would be) easy fix project is transforming into a monster electronic project. Frankly I have too much on my plate and do not have the time right now to start this adventure, but I figured that this would be the perfect excuse to start learning electronics. Reading a little more about these VFD's, I learned that ghosting in a multiplexed vfd (like this one) is more likely caused by issues with the grid signal pulses. here's the official explanation here: " Another potential hazard in multiplexing is ghosting. This phenomena is caused by decaying grid signal pulses which are caused by stray capacitance between VFD electrodes and display drivers. If the grid timing overlaps the following grid and anode signal pulses, as shown in Fig.9(a), ghost illumination appears at un-addressed anode segments. To overcome this problem, an inter-digit blanking time should be added between grid pulse timings as shown in Fig.9(b). Generally the inter-digit blanking time should be approximately 10 to 50usec, but this can vary depending on the delay time. Delay time occurs when high value pull down resistor type drivers are used or when the drive circuit is situated away from the VFD. We recommend that an appropriate inter-digit blanking time is utilized on the grid signal only, rather than on both grid and anode signals." For those interested, this was taken from this document : https://www.noritake-elec.com/technology/general-technical-information/vfd-operation So for now, I am stopping this but in the near future , here's what I think will need to be done : 1) make a map of the board connections with all components 2) understand how it works in plain french (english) 3) somehow confirm the ghosting with some tool (possibly an oscilloscope of some sort) 4) insert an inter-blanking solution For now I will endure the display like it is, but I am excited at the idea of starting this project eventually when time is available. Over and out ! LOL Steve.
  13. Well..... It did not go as planned ! I tried to freeze the capacitors (and pretty much everywhere I could on the board) and was not successful at making the ghosting disappear (now that the truck is in the heated garage). I still went ahead and replace the 50V 33mf capacitor and it did not change anything.... I think I'm gonna need a professional in electronics for this one... i'll keep everyone informed if anything changes.. S.
  14. Unfortunately, I was not able to source a local customer. Because of this I was not able to get any kind of measurements...So no skidplates coming for now. S.

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