MY1PATH

Yeah so that bolt on the oil baffle was sticking up too much for the beefy Twin Turbo Rods to clear so I had to make some more room... Removing the lock washer was probably enough but I also shaved down the ridge on the head for a little extra clearance.

Pistons are in! That strange color is a Thermal Barrier Coating to reduce dome temperatures under boost, the pistons also have anti friction coated skirts.

Oil baffles clearanced to fit bigger pistons.

Oh yes, it's resemblant of the original L Series Datsun engines! Actually I picked this color on a build long before I even knew that about the Datsun L Series colors and all my builds have been this color since. But sadly it has been discontinued and I own the last 6 cans.

Paint showed up, hope to spray the whole block this weekend and install shiny brass freeze plugs...

Ever since photobucket decided to poop on thousands of forums worldwide I've not settled on a good image hosting. Looks like it failed above. Anway, waiting on paint... Primer was a week wait and then Friday I got a notice that shipping itself is delayed another week.

Today I broke all the casting flash out of the coolant passage in the valley. There were some large pieces obstructing the flow directly from the water pump. I also smoothed and blended out the water pump outlet. Getting rid of all casting seams and texture 2" deep to improve flow directly out of the water pump. Aside from removing casting flash, the rest stays untouched because the rough texture improves thermal efficiency.

Last time was 5 years ago...

VG34ER... ...I'm just gonna leave this here...

MODS can this be re-titled so that it gets found easier on web searches? "Fitting Of JWT S-1 Billet Cams In A Vg33e Engine" ("Jtw" is the incorrect abbreviation for Jim Wolf Technology)

This is funny. I pop in to NPORA to see if there's anything interesting and this old topic has been stirred up.... So, Supercharged 2 door ... Life happens and while I'd like to say Supercharged 2 door will happen too it has been on the backburner for quite some time. ( I also see the same repeat questions that were asked 12 years ago still being asked and Redpath88 still patiently answering them ) Is there truth to that post that was originally part of a joke? ABSOLUTELY. How much of that is true about tuning via MAF and Injector changes only? 95% Want the last 5%? Each model ECU interprets MAF input values differently so while going to higher resolution/ larger MAF's paired with larger injectors will theoretically balance the AFR equation the exact combination and result will vary from vehicle to vehicle. So you will still have to run an wideband swap the parts out and observe until you get the combination right. Start by picking the injectors that meet your HP requirements and then go up one in MAF. Unplug your factory o2 sensor and go for a test drive. If you are too rich under light to mid throttle you can put the MAF in a larger housing or select a different unit. If you are too lean, do the opposite. Stock Nissans from the 90's were inherently rich up top (some times too rich in the midrange too) so if you are seeing 10-11:1 AFR under boost and everything else is normal for idle and cursing that is probably going to be the best you are going to get without dedicated ECU tuning. Oh and before all this, do a few runs on the wideband with the stock setup so you have a reference point before you start changing parts and adding boost. IN the long run if you get Nistune you can fine tune this relationship between the MAF and the injectors using what's called the K constant and much, much more... Currently running M30 MAF and R50 Injectors. Most likely be on z32 MAF and VG33ER injectors if I ever finish the project with boost. This will get me plenty close to my air flow capacity and fuel requirements to meet my needs AND dial it in with Nistune.

He has one pulley adapter on hand and maybe some brackets. I passed your email on to him. You may be the last one, he's not seeing enough demand to start another batch.

What happened to HooHaa, he is not responding to emails and his web page is gone screwy... No more center links from him?

R50 Front ONLY swaps with R50 Front. The carriers are different and the gears inside the carriers are also cut different.

Unplug the switch and see which wire is Hot with a multi-meter. Then splice into the wire that is not. Make sure you use a relay with 10 or 12ga wire going to the trailer braking system.

I forgot, the wires from the bulb wrap around the base. You have to un-tuck them, straighten them and then the bulb will slide out. Those are not mini wedge, I was wrong.

They are mini wedge bulbs. (type #74 maybe? or 24? if that's too small) I might have a bucket of un-tested ones somewhere but some stores sell them too... http://www.bulbtown.com/74_Miniature_Bulb_Glass_Wedge_Base_p/74.htm

Part number 14725-88G00 XRF Metal Analyzer says its 321 stainless (IIRC) but the nuts are cast-steel. So basically the tubes last forever but the nuts always rust up and get stuck. http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1994-nissan-pathfinder/egr-parts.html?Diagram=147_G01

Behind the counter... He's got a Datsun Roadster down there right now. Pretty cool! Oh and some guy called him up about an email order for a modified L28 he's building for a 1974 Z...

I got him, things have been crazy over there. They just expanded their warehouse and then had to populate all the empty space...

Normally he's pretty quick about getting back to me via email. I started talking to him before the holidays about a parts list and I have not heard from him since. Of course his profile says he hasn't been on here since August... I'll give Nissan of Mckinney a call tomorrow see if he's there but I may just pursue another connection...

In summary, if your not going to get into ECU tuning I would stick with the stock MAF and maybe some R50 injectors. The extra 20 HP POTENTIAL out of your existing build will not be missed because its only at peak RPM and you will not be driving like that all the time. The torque will always be there when you need it even without a MAF "upgrade".

Stock injectors will reliably take you to 200 HP. I'm in that ballpark right now. R50 3.3 injectors are my recommended replacement for anybody's 20+ year old 3.0 injectors. Flow characteristics are close enough to run without additional tuning, they have better resistance to the ethanol content in todays fuel and the connectors are less prone to corrosion. (requires new injector pigtails to be spliced in). The stock MAF found on the trucks and pickups is defiantly a choke point, I would guess it would be about maxed out on a stock 180 HP 3.3. Unfortunately, I have no data regarding its resolution or resistance tables. I am running an Infiniti M30 MAF but I am also running Nistune so MAF corrections can easily be made as needed. Without the ability to make MAF corrections it really becomes a guessing game, try a different MAF and monitor/compare under load with a WBO2 to the stock unit. Keep in mind any driving condition in the 14.7:1 AFR or below the operating temperature of 180F will not be fully affected by the MAF so you have to get out of those ranges for accurate comparison of MAF sensors. I would start with a SOHC 3.0 Car MAF (M30, older Maxima...) as the 4cy's, DOHC's and newer vehicles all have MUCH higher resolutions and will throw your ratio's off quite a bit. Time-trial operation has given me 12.5:1 as the fastest acceleration (most power & torque) at wide open throttle from 2k-4k rpm. (tested in 3 pulling groups 2k-3k, 2.5k-3.5k & 3k-4k all providing the same result 12.5:1) Stock tune was targeting 10.5ish under wide open throttle which was whole seconds slower in each group I tested. But you cannot just lean it out with a higher resolution MAF because then mid-range fueling is too lean for optimal throttle response. Just something to keep in mind, unless you have ECU tuning capabilities your new, less restrictive MAF has to provide you close to the same ratios at each RPM range as your stock one.

BTW never had 10.9 or stock bolt snap on me and I used to jump my pathfinder lol. I think it was a fluke. What torque are you using? Stock is 80-108 ft-lb.

It is my belief that anything higher than 10.9 in tension application will cause the frame nut to strip instead of the bolt. I would rather replace a bolt than put (another) time-sert in my frame... I don't recall if the OE bolt heads had any markings (unmarked, 7(7T), 9(9T), raised lines, etc...) But this chart might shed some light... mind, not all unmarked bolts are low grade.