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Everything posted by PathyGig12

  1. Ok I’m going to need ALLLLL the details on this one. Holy crap that’s a nice build
  2. My pathy is loaded pretty heavy as well and in my experience the ABS has never really worked great anyway. It doesn’t seem to prevent slides, so much as serve as a warning that I’m currently sliding. More to the point I don’t see a need to get that close to the limit of traction anyway. I don’t drive it like a sports car and always maintain good spacing and awareness, so worst case scenario I’m able to stop it just fine with an even and smooth application of hard braking. Had quite a few morons pull out in front of me from side streets and the abs never kicked in. I guess it also carries over from riding bikes without ABS for so long. The only times ABS has kicked in have been on slushy snow and sheet ice, but really nothing can help you there and I was still sliding while the abs pulsed away. Maybe it helps on dirt roads a bit but again, drive sensibly and you won’t need to worry about it. Oh yeah and think hard about the tires you use. Chunky mudders look sick but a nice AT is gonna have way more grip on pavement and do almost everything an MT can do off road. On that one trip this year near Glenwood I was in a hurry trying to get home and aired down without verifying the pressure because I couldn’t find my gauge. My front end was messed up so two wheel drive and it turned out my pressure was around 33psi when I verified it later. The ATs still had plenty of grip
  3. Not sure about the first question but it seems like it to me. As soon as I changed it mine stopped leaking so I’m guessing it must have been involved somehow
  4. Been a week and no issues with the new rack since I put the new pressure sensor on. This time I also used Maxlife PS fluid rather than ATF, but I doubt that’s the reason. No leaks as far as I can tell but every day I keep an eye on the reservoir just to be sure. What’s funny is I was chasing a weird creaking flexing noise in the front end since I changed the rack but this morning I put the skid plate back on and it’s gone! Ha. So now I’m wondering if my skid is structural at this point
  5. Just like the last rack, the steering suddenly started working again, but it also started leaking slightly. I went and changed the pressure sensor on the line and did a flush of the system then bled it. Works fine for now but time will tell if the seals are salvageable or if they still degrade further and leak massively. Ideally I’d buy all new pressure and return lines along with another rack, but I don’t have the cash for that right now. I’m worried the return line isn’t allowing fluid out of the rack, theoretically meaning that it would be fighting the piston until it blew the seals and allowed an avenue for the pressure to escape
  6. Update: Installed a rack I pulled from a junker that seemed to be in decent shape. It’s not leaking at all but the hard steering is back. I’m so lost. This is the same thing the other one did when I first put it in. So now I’m worried that a few days from now it’ll start working but spring a massive leak just like the last one. Anybody have any idea what could be going on?? Again, the pump was changed last year and has not been a problem so it’s almost impossible that it’s gone bad. The hard steering is only at idle which means it’s some sort of pressure issue
  7. The rack is now leaking from the passenger side, and quite badly. I have to refill the fluid every 3 days or so or I start getting whining from the pump. And no amount of stop leak seems to help. Super disappointing, but lesson learned. Better to get a junker rack that’s in good shape then to trust a cheap reman. I’ll be sourcing a pull and pay replacement hopefully this weekend.
  8. I’ve tried all kinds and no effect. Mine is pissing oil lately but I’ve just decided to keep it topped off with something heavy weight until I have funds to do the seal replacement
  9. Interesting, I’ll have to keep that in mind. What do you think about rolling on the bed liner vs spraying? I think I’ve seen some really bad roll jobs but seems easier as long as you know what you’re doing
  10. Bold move! I think it looks great man. Raptor liner has always been in the back of my mind but wasn’t sure how it would come out so it’s good to know that the finished product is nice. I’m holding out until It’s no longer my daily before I go for it
  11. Interesting! I’ll have to take a closer look at it. Right now my working theory is that a lot of the play was coming from the stuck caliper and resulting imbalance in the pad wear causing a wobble in the rotor. And the worn out rack was allowing that play to transfer to the steering system in a more dramatic way. Anyway, I’m putting on the new calipers Monday night, and I’ll throw in the other side pads and rotor to match the new driver side just so everything is even. May or may not paint them red and pencil on “Brembo” for @!*%s and gigs....TBD
  12. Good idea on the test, but I’m short on both time and equipment right now. No garage since we moved to a new apartment and there’s a waitlist to get one, plus I’m working a lot more these days. I literally did the rack swap with a buddy in the parking lot of ORiellys where I used to work lol Anyway, something I noticed today on my way home is that it started working properly after I stopped at the gas station. I was only a couple minutes from home so I don’t know if it’s fixed completely but it literally worked flawlessly from the second I started the truck until I parked it at home. No issues at slow speed whatsoever. So I’m scratching my head over here right now. Best guess is maybe some foreign material was in the return valve and it finally got dislodged? I’ll see if it starts acting up again tomorrow but I’m crossing my fingers!
  13. Yeah exactly, it pretty much has to be related to the rack but I can’t figure out which part. Nothing is leaking externally but internally I have no way of knowing. I’m going to try swapping the fluid just to be safe but beyond that I’m stumped as to how I’m going to diagnose this. I would hate to have to get another one and do ANOTHER replacement job. The first time sucked
  14. So the new steering rack is installed now. Works fine except that it won’t assist when the truck is idling. So turning from a stop is super hard, but as soon as you get the revs above 1500 it’s fine. The pump is brand new as of last year and the only thing that changed is the new rack and I used Mobil 1 synthetic ATF for the power steering fluid this time around. I was always told it works just fine but I’m wondering if that’s wrong? I also made sure to get all the air out of the system so that’s not it either. Obviously it’s just not building enough pressure to work until the engine revs up and overcomes whatever is stopping it from pressurizing. I looked at all the lines and there aren’t any kinks or leaks or anything. Anybody have any ideas?
  15. Yesterday I started getting a massive grinding noise and while braking, so I looked around thinking it just be something caught in the dust shield. Nope, nothing fell out when prying on it. The rotor looked fine on the outside but inside the wheel I noticed chunks of steel. Uh oh. Took the hub apart and the whole backside of the rotor was shredded, the inside pad had worn down to the backing plate and was grinding. Turns out the culprit was a seized caliper pin that had rusted into place because moisture got into the cracked boot. I slapped some new pads and a new rotor in but I’m waiting on the reman calipers to be delivered later in the week. It’ll be fine for a while but if left alone the same thing will eventually happen again. And I figure the other side probably isn’t far behind so it’s worth changing both. Tomorrow night the new steering rack goes on, and I’ll get it aligned shortly after. I’ll update the thread as to whether my steering shimmy goes away, fingers crossed
  16. Fair enough, although it’s strange how our experiences are so different with the same tire. I suppose there’s lots of variables involved. The compound is a bit on the softer side so maybe the hot tarmac out there accelerates the wear? The only other tires I’m considering for the next set are the Firestone destination M/T, but that would be when the truck is no longer my daily
  17. Wow that’s interesting, you guys must have some really nasty terrain. Mine have been thrashed on rocks on several trips now with plenty of wheel spin and so far haven’t noticed any tread damage. I did use to have the KO2s and I’ll agree they’re a fantastic tire as well. I think the At3w is just a bit better in snow Im kind of amazing at how resilient these bastards are when it comes to improper alignment. I drove on them with terrible camber for almost a year and they didn’t seem to care. Same story for toe these past few months
  18. Can’t speak to your issue specifically, but I’ve found that as the truck gets older I’ve been having more and more issues with the 4WD light and the mode indicators on the dash. I’ve had them come on or go completely dark when I’m on the highway, I’ve had the warning come on while crawling in 4Low, I’ve had it refuse to go back into 2 wheel drive and it would just be flashing all 4 wheels and the center lock for a while then eventually clunk into 2 wheel drive. I think the case or the various electronics and sensors are wearing out
  19. You can use anything that meets Dex-III standards, so yes that one will work. It even mentions Matic D in the description so it’s perfectly fine. The one I went with was the Valvoline Maxlife red bottle that is listed as “multi vehicle” and it works great
  20. From what I’ve seen on the trails off-road website for Colorado trails over the past few years, as well as just personal experience, the season is pretty much the same as yours. Most of the nice scenic trails take until end of June to be fully passable, and stay open until the end of October depending on how early it snows. Usually I don’t plan to be on anything high altitude until mid July but this year it’s been hot. Some trails below 10,000 are fine as early as the middle of may, just depends
  21. Hancock lake. Seriously beautiful spot, I’d highly recommend it
  22. Cool, yeah it doesn’t seem too hard. Just waiting on funds at the moment Measuring the tie rods to get the alignment close has never mattered a lot to me. I’ve been able to get the toe close just by eye (My skinny tires make it easier to tell), and I’ll have to get it done properly after the the rack swap anyway so it seems like a waste of time to break out the measuring tape. Anyway, I’ll update the thread when I get back from the trip on Monday, should be some epic scenery up by the lake. Just hoping it’s not crowded for the holiday
  23. Man this place has been dead lately! Very sad to see We are making another camping trip this weekend to Hancock lake near saint elmo, and hopefully it will be much easier so I won’t run the risk of any more damage. The other nice thing is we have the whole day to get to camp unlike the last trip, so we can take it slow and air down properly. It’s also a much shorter route I have yet to replace the rack. I found one online for $200 new aftermarket or $110 for a used OEM in unknown condition, but I’m waiting on funds since I just changed jobs and haven’t gotten my first check yet. So it’ll have to be on hold until after the weekend. I’m worried more about whether the damage is actually to the steering shaft, and specifically which part? There’s no good way to know until I pull the rack out of the way but then I’ll be stuck if I don’t have the replacement shaft ready and discover it needs a new one. I’m thinking it’s possible the splines or joints got messed up on the shaft or in the column
  24. So I went to change the tie rods to get rid of that steering shimmy but it turns out that the rack itself is what’s causing the movement. I disconnected the outer tie rod from the knuckle and grabbed the tie rod and jerked in and out when the steering wheel was locked and it was able to thump back and forth a good inch. It also has a bit of play up down left and right within the cylinder. The bushings are solid and the movement is clearly coming from inside the rack. Ive been looking up the replacement procedure and it doesn’t seem too tricky, but everything in there is covered in grease so I’ll have to spray it down really good before swapping. Seems like it’s just 4 bolts to undo the brackets, then disconnect the PS lines and let them drain. Unbolt the sway bar brackets for access, and then disconnect the connection to the steering box and pull it out from the front of the subframe. Keeping the steering wheel in the same position the whole time obviously Anybody have any special info? I’m assuming the splined shaft from the rack slots just into the steering box right? Should I be suspecting this as another possible source of the movement? I’ve never messed with steering stuff before
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